Been to Croatia, out of Split?

andyorr

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Going on Oct 19 for 1 week. Please recommend a good itinerary - places to visit etc, good marinas, anchorages and so on.

In anticipation.....
Andy
 

Twister_Ken

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You have to decide whether to go N, S or hang around the mainland area. In a week you can't do too much.

South are bigger islands, Brac, Hvar, Lastovo - all interesting and relatively populated.

North are many many many small islands (the Kornati) nearly all deserted, but with a couple of marinae, and some coves with restaurants (still open in october???).

Hanging around the mainland Trogir is an absolute must, Dubrovnik probably too far in a week, the waterfalls on the Krka apparently a must (but too crowded to get to when we were then in midsumer a couple of years back). Between Trogir and Krka is Rogonizca - nice fishing village with a mega marina that puts anything in the Solent to shame.

Take a look at Sunsail's bareboat page for the area:
http://www.sunsail.com/brochure/bareboat/bareboat_intro.cgi?languageid=uk&origin=1&rescode=mbcrro
for some ideas
 

Roberto

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In october the probability of a bora blow are much higher than in summer, I suggest when you choose an anchorage for the night prefer one sheltered from NE to NW winds; bora strikes are usually announced on the local radio (few other signs), but just one miss and you are up for a very rough night (or day). Wind can go from 5kt to 30/40kt and more in a matter of minutes. I would avoid going upstream the Krka river, if bora blows you would hardly be able to move at all, the wind funnels between the riverbanks and speed increases even more.
Going north, apart from the marina, nice small fishing villages at Zlarin, Zut, +one roughly in the middle of the south bank of Kornati island (can t remember the name).
I agree about Trogir, wonderful little village, but it is maybe better to take a bus from Split rather than sail all around Ciovo island; if you anchor outside the marina near the city walls beware with southerly winds+a bit of tide the sea level increases almost above the quay level, I once had to pass a rope below the hull to keep fenders half immersed at the waterline in a very unusual position.
Some very nice coves on the W coast of Brac, north and before Milna marina, good maybe for the first half day sail; a funny tropical like white sandy beach on the south coast of brac near Bol, named Zlatni rat; lots of small nice anchorages on the west coast of Hvar island, Hvar village itself is very very nice (try Macondo restaurant). Scedro islet is also good for a quiet overnight stay.
An interesting slightly off way place is Vis island, for many years it was not allowed to get there, there is a very nice atmosphere and sort of mild microclimate.
With a week maybe you will not be able to sail till Korcula (depends on your rythm, but there are almost no lights at night anywhere), but I am sure you will like the area and go back next year with more time.
 

Metabarca

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Blimey, doesn't leave me much to say! Except that the little bay halfway along Kornat island is called Ulica Lopatica. There's a 'restaurant' there which is unlikely to be open, but it offers a solidly anchored pontoon to tie to; reassuring if the bora's blowing.
I should head also for the north tip of Dugi Otok: there's good holding in sand behind the tip of the island and great sunsets viewed across the bar. This might perhaps the northernmost point you could reach. Also seriously fab is the southernmost point with its large island-studded bay: Luka Telascica; anchor at the end between the easternmost of the two islets and the shore or in Ulica Mir, to visit the 'inland' saltwater lake. As mentioned, Vis is special because only opened up recently, but you might get stuck there if the bora starts to blow.
I ditto the comments about Trogir: good holding just off the shore by the fort but uncomfortable if you're hit by one of the severe squalls that can roll off the hills. Very pretty but very touristy. Dubrovnik, I reckon is too far (and you have to bus in from the marina).
Another secret gem is the island of Veli Drevnik just west of Trogir. A good anchorage in the bay or against the jetty (but check the ferry times), with a couple of good little restaurants and a very laid-back feel.
Frankly, if I had to grit my teeth and choose, I'd go for the Kornat: 400 wind-blasted, white islands in the blue sea take some beating! They're very wild, and you must take food and water (there's only one seasonal (?) marina) but I think they are the most distinctive feature on the coast.
Well, that should really have confused you! Buon vento and srecno!
 

extravert

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Well I think just about everywhere that's anywhere has been mentioned, so I'll just add my vote of places to go to...

Kornati Islands if you have time to get up to them. The Kornati Canal is spectacular, it's a channel between two strings of the Kornati Islands (these Islands are very thin and very long).
Trogir is a must, go for a wander round the town. Puts our medieval cities to shame.
Primosten
Viz (or is it Vis) Island, again if you have time.

And Split itself is worth a wander around if you have time on your first or final day. There are some impressive Roman buildings like Diocletians Palace (spelling may be doubtful).

Croatia is my favourite place in the Med, but then I like crinkly coasts. Watch out for the salty bottled water, it tastes a bit odd.
 

Metabarca

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agreed about the salty water, although water-flavoured water is also available now! Bear in mind that the days are shorter now and there are few lights on the many islands (whether navigational or residential).
A few more culinary tips: cevapcici = little sausage-shaped balls of veal, beef and pork (originally a Serb dish - not always on the menu...)
raznici = kebabs
omlets (and variations in spelling of) or palacinke = pancakes
when ordering fish, ask them to leave out the garlic; I love the stuff, but they really plaster it on, killing the flavour of the meat.
The red sauce served with meat is made with red peppers. Winewise, go for malvazia from Istria. You may find some decent Dalmatian wine but it ain't easy. Beer = Karlovac or Union or Zlatorog. You want more, just PM me!
 

MapisM

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I'm surprised to see that nobody mentioned Bisevo, though most of the indications in the other posts are accurate indeed.
It's a small island SE of Vis, with a wonderful natural cave which IMHO is the best swimming spot of the whole adriatic.
Requires some attention though - winds from E (NE to SE actually) makes it unaccessible.
For mooring, there's a small bay north of the cave, but also that is not sheltered from NE winds.
On the other hand, if you can make it, I'd bet it will be the first thing you'll remember at the end of your trip.
The cave is at N 42.58.700 E 16.01.400 (even difficult to see it with rough sea).
And don't forget your snorkeling gear !
 
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