Battery selector switch

[ghostlymoron]

I have two battery banks with seperate isolators for each. The charging is by alternator and VSR. I am considering replacing the seperate isolators with a 1-2-both type switch so I would have the option of using the leisure batteries to start the engine if required. Is this a good idea?

 

[Rafiki]

Obviously we don't have many details here. However if the negatives on teh batteries are already connected which is quite likely then couldn't you achive teh same objective with a short emergency "positive only" jump lead.

This avoids all the difficulty of replacing switches - only works of course if you are only looking for emergence use.

Well it's what I have done anyway !

Regards

Andrew

 

[snooks]

I'm just about to replace my 1-2-both battery switch in favour of a VSR switch (around £80 from Merlin scroll down to battery management devices) It's saves the risk of blowing the alternator diodes, and also stops me forgetting to switch over the batteries draining the engine and service batteries together

I'm by far the weakest link in the battery management chain , so all I'll have to do is just switch both switches and the VSR will charge to the engine battery first. Then when that's sorted itself out, it will bung the charge into my both banks of batteries. When the engine is off, power will only come from my service batteries and the engine battery is isolated again

There's also an emergency link switch just in case

If you're in no hurry for, and want a 1-2-both switch, pm me. Once I've replaced mine we can sort something out

 

[halcyon]

I have two battery banks with seperate isolators for each. The charging is by alternator and VSR. I am considering replacing the seperate isolators with a 1-2-both type switch so I would have the option of using the leisure batteries to start the engine if required. Is this a good idea?

Why not just fit a third isolator switch between the existing two. Then just turn off engine isolator, switch in link isolator and start engine. You can use engine isolator key for link, so it cannot be switch by mistake, also allows manual battery charge if VSR fails.

Brian

 

[oldfatgit]

I have 2 switches, one for domestic and 2 for engine plus, in the battery locker, a third key type to join them together, the last being in case engine battery has failed. The advantage is that the key type cannot be closed in error and, indeed, are the cheapest easily found.

I'd reccomend the same, particularly as, in my case, it is the domestics which are likely to run flat, eventually, particulary if at anchor for an extended period or completing a long passage.

 

[Gwylan]

We have separate systems, with individual switches. Means if the started battery goes then I have to bodge a jump lead from the others. But the fridge or some pillock leaving something running are never going to flatten the engine battery
Ponder awhile dear reader why I might have made this change.

 

[Gwylan]

Just really understood this and it will be on the list for this winter, probably with a key so only I can actually mess up the system

 

[PeterGibbs]

BMS is the way to go!

I'm just about to replace my 1-2-both battery switch in favour of a VSR switch (around £80 from Merlin scroll down to battery management devices) It's saves the risk of blowing the alternator diodes, and also stops me forgetting to switch over the batteries draining the engine and service batteries together

If you want a safe secure system and intend keeping the boat for a while this is the approach. A system that gives all batteries max opportunity to sup at the fountain of youth (alternator) is the one that will extract max life out of the batteries. And keep you and the crew happy....

Perhaps.

PWG

 

[VicS]

I am considering replacing the separate isolators with a 1-2-both type switch

Think about how you are going to wire this up. If you have engine and domestic circuits separate and want to keep them separate then a 1-2-both switch is not really suited.

In any case these switches have a bit of a poor reputation so if you do decide to buy one buy a really good one.

Separate isolators and a linking switch is the way to go IMHO and if thought about probably more suited to your existing wiring.

A jump lead is a bad idea. the spark that arises when connected or disconnected can and occassionally does ignite the hydrogen given off by the battery. Not a good thing to have battery explode in your face.
If you do use a jump lead ensure that the second connection made and the first broken is well away from the battery, not on its terminal.

 

[andythilo]

I have two battery banks with seperate isolators for each. The charging is by alternator and VSR. I am considering replacing the seperate isolators with a 1-2-both type switch so I would have the option of using the leisure batteries to start the engine if required. Is this a good idea?

Sell your VSR and get a BEP Marine Cluster. Does everything all in one. I've not long fitted mine and it works brilliantly. My only gripe is that the cable connections are 10mm and not 8mm as they are on battery posts.

Here's the cluster :

http://www.power-store.com/view-item.asp?itemid=1155&id=199&

 

[halcyon]

Sell your VSR and get a BEP Marine Cluster. Does everything all in one. I've not long fitted mine and it works brilliantly. My only gripe is that the cable connections are 10mm and not 8mm as they are on battery posts.

Here's the cluster :

http://www.power-store.com/view-item.asp?itemid=1155&id=199&

Why throw away two good battery switches, and a VSR that are working, to replace them with the same ?

All he needs is a £5 isolator switch, and two bits of cable, and it is a smaller carbon footprint.

Brian

 

[sailinglegend420]

I have two battery banks with seperate isolators for each. The charging is by alternator and VSR. I am considering replacing the seperate isolators with a 1-2-both type switch so I would have the option of using the leisure batteries to start the engine if required. Is this a good idea?

Our VSR (Merlin) has a "manual on" position which parallels the House and Starter. If one battery is dead you can use its isolator switch to allow the other to feed the load side. Some rewiring of switches may be needed. If you don't isolate the faulty battery when they are paralleled it will drag down the good one.

 

[snooks]

Here's the cluster :

http://www.power-store.com/view-item.asp?itemid=1155&id=199&

That's what I've got (and mentioned above) It seemed by far the simplest solution for a numpty like me

But it looks like a got a boatshow bargain