Batteries

[mick]

I have two ailing 75AH dual purpose batteries in my Sadler 26, engine Bukh 10HP. My main call on batteries is for engine starting, as I don't have a fridge or anything else that uses a lot of power. Any suggestions on replacements appreciated. As engine starting is so important (no snide comments about sailing skills, please) I am thinking of maybe buying at least one battery of, say, 90AH. Any disadvantages apart from price and size? Thanks in advance.

Mick

 

[hlb]

What you should have, is one engine starting battery and one domestic. There different. One sort is good for loads of power over short time. The other is better for lights and things, needing small drain over long time. Carry a jump lead with you, then if it does go flat, just start off the other.

No one can force me to come here-----------
----- I'm a Volunteer!!!

Haydn

 

[howardclark]

I've just decided to change over to Elecsol for starting & domestics. For me the big advantage is small for rated supply (though not lighter) + don't end up knackered if you accidentally fully discharge. They are available from
www.energy-solutions.co.uk at a chunky discount at the moment - in fact roughly the same price as standard 'marine' batteries.

 

[RJD]

Having had battery problems for some time, I took advicew and fitted a Hella Power regulator (available from automotive electrical outlets) No problems for last 3 years using standard type automotive batteries... the unit charges them fully in a controlled sequence.
TonyP

 

[Paulka]

I would keep two batteries.
Keep one (or even both) old ones as "utilities", and buy a new one as a starter battery.
If the existing ones are flooded lead, or compatible (essentially NOT gel) buy a cheap "supermarket" battery. They mostly sell with a two or even three years warranty, and are meant to ... exactly this: start engines. To avoid the new to discharge into the old, install charging diodes, and, if you can afford it, some sort of "smart regulator".
After lots of experimenting with all sort of expensive and exotic batteries, I'm back to the cheapest ones, even for "utilities". They give me good service for 5 to 7 years, and if they fail early, I claim warranty.
Good sail.

Paul

 

[hlb]

Thats daft. Knackered batteries are no good to man nor beast. wiz em and just buy new. There not dear these days.

No one can force me to come here-----------
----- I'm a Volunteer!!!

Haydn

 

[dickh]

Get good quality automotive/truck batteries, I bought Exide 110M for both starting & domestics, and as long as you have "smart" charging system and a "1; 2; both; off" battery switch you have the best of both worlds. I boght my batteries from ATS at £120 for the two, much cheaper than the chandlery. Recommended by Adverc - See their website www.adverc.com for further info. I also saw the Sterling range at the weekend which seem to be better value.

 

[Paulka]

Soory, I am daft! and a tightarse as well. ;-)

To answer such a question, I use to make some assumptions.
in this case, I read the following between the lines:
1.- Mick's problem looks more of psychological nature than technical - There is no indication that the "ailing" batteries ever failed to start the engine.
2.- Mick has two "ailing" batteries, and fears he would be left down when he wants to start his engine.
3.- Mick has no "heavy" domestic consumer (this is not an assumption, but a statement by Mick), thus, even one, or better two "ailing" batteries should do.
4.- Mick is not going to cross any ocean any time soon.
5.- Mick is on a budget.

Of course, any, or all those assumptions may be wrong.

Under the a.m. conditions, I feel it's not necessary to replace the "domestic, or utilities" battery (ies), it, (they) may be good enough to feed the usual consumers: log, depth sounder, nav. lights, cabin lights, radio, .... what else?
all those consumers can be backed up by A-, C-, D-cells, just in case. (or even by the second "ailing" battery!)

Of course, it's better to replace all the batteries by new ones, budget permitting.
On the other side, I think it's better to have a dedicated "starting" battery, and have a strong discipline of NOT using it for "domestics".
As a last ressort, the engine can be used to feed the domestics if everything else fails. It will be then time to replace the dead battery.
And then, I would suggest to re-assign the batteries, the new one becoming the "starting" one.

I hope I have not been too daft this time.

;-)

Paul

 

[hlb]

Re: Soory, I am daft! and a tightarse as well. ;-)

Bloody hell. Keep yer shirt on. Yerl have a heart attach <G>

No one can force me to come here-----------
----- I'm a Volunteer!!!

Haydn

 

[ColdFusion]

How do you ensure 'standard type automotive batteries' are ventilated sufficiently to avoid a build-up of explosive gases when being charged?

Also, how do you ensure that the batteries don't leak acid in the event of a knockdown?

Wouldn't sealed, no maintenance, gell-type batteries be better suited for use in sailing boats or have I missed something?

 

[Paulka]

Don't be overly paranoid!
Yes, batteries develop gases (Oxygen and Hydrogen), essentially when they are unsuitably charged. And then, the water consumption will be such that you soon will be aware of "something" wrong. The quantities of gases developped are minimal, when the batteries are adequatly charged.
The gases, when kept together, are highly explosive, but hydrogen is the lightest gas on earth (and even elswhere!) thus, will escape very rapidly provided it is not trapped into a tight box. The oxygen will mix with air.
Morality 1: keep the batteries into a reasonnably ventilated place.

Yes, batteries are heavy, and represent a real danger if allowed to fly around. But, the connecting cables offer a first "security", even if it's not their purpose. As in a car, the batteries can, and must be secured in place, and different systems exist. The battery case itself is designed to accept various solutions.
Morality 2: keep them in a way they will not escape.

Yes, batteries are filled with highly agressive acid. It's better not to allow them to go upside down! But, the batteries are reasonnably tight against accidental spills, if not held upside down for a long time. At normal, even at high heeling angles, a battery will not spill.
Morality 3: secure them in a way they will stay where they are supposed to be, and in a box, where any accidental spill will not be allowed to escape.

If your boat ever is knocked down, your batteries, if properly secured, should not move, and only release a minimal spill, if any.
If your boat fails to come back to his "normal" position, I guess you'll have more serious concern than the batteries.

My batteries are located in the engine compartment, into a very strong wooden box, internally plastified with GRP.
My boat was knocked down twice in the same night, the batteries didn't neither spill, nor move themselves, and they were all the time fully operational.
Vetus, and probably others have well done battery cases, allowing a safe storage of your batteries. You only have to find a suitable location, and secure them in a way they will not be allowed to move under any circumstances.

BTW most production boats have well planed battery boxes.

Relax, enjoy your sailing.

Paul