Back to the UK for a winter refit
- Thread starter jimmy_the_builder
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jimmy_the_builder
Well-Known Member
That's the Osculati Twist swivel, mentioned above.
Nick_H
Well-Known Member
I've had one on my boats for at least the last 10 years, hundreds of nights at anchor with no problems, and the anchor sets in the roller the right way up, first time every time. The only problem as you've mentioned is that they're quite long, so there isn't always room between the gypsy and the anchor stem.
Also, it works by turning the anchor when the twist swivel is half on the roller, so for those boats where the bow roller is recessed into the deck, I suppose there's a chance that as it twists it would bind between the GRP either side
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D
Deleted User YDKXO
Guest
I've used the Osculati Twist myself in the past and it works very well. The only issue I've had is that the twisting action can be quite violent if the anchor is drawn into the bow roller rapidly (as SWMBOs are prone to do) and we have occasionally clouted the bow with the anchor doing this.
Agree that I'm not sure if it would work with the Azi hawse pipe arrangement as it is the action of the Twist passing over a bow roller which turns the anchor. In fact the Twist might even get stuck in the Azi hawse pipe
What has always worked for us is to keep the anchor just below the surface of the water and go gently astern and that invariably twists the anchor into it's correct position. After it has turned, it can be raised into into the bow roller
Agree that I'm not sure if it would work with the Azi hawse pipe arrangement as it is the action of the Twist passing over a bow roller which turns the anchor. In fact the Twist might even get stuck in the Azi hawse pipe
What has always worked for us is to keep the anchor just below the surface of the water and go gently astern and that invariably twists the anchor into it's correct position. After it has turned, it can be raised into into the bow roller
Hurricane
Well-Known Member
Wow - thats brave of you - hope she isn't reading this.
If I had said that - I would have been told "Do it yourself then"
D
Deleted User YDKXO
Guest
Oh yes, I've learnt to keep my mouth shut over the years. It's the price of having a (mostly) willing crew
Hurricane
Well-Known Member
Ancam is actually already in hand, in fact the cam itself arrived this morning. I've just gone up one size with the anchor, to a Delta 20kg from a 16kg. Although this doesn't sound like much, the shank thickness changes when you go from 16 to 20, and there is a suggestion from anecdotal evidence that this might help the anchor set. We'll see.
I hadn't considered changing the chain; I have 80m already, and have never needed it all; I think the most I've put out has been 60m. However, the main disadvantage of galv chain is its tendency to occasionally clump in the anchor locker, and then jam the windlass. Stainless would solve that, I guess, although stainless chain w galv anchor might look a bit odd. Plus, 80m of stainless chain will be *very* expensive, and I'm already over budget on the wider project
OK
What are you guys using for you Ancams?
jfm
Well-Known Member
I'm using a standard Garmin cam, because it was a factory install and builder installed all-Garmin in the boat. Plus, mine is on the hull side so it makes no sense to have a camera on a stalk. for pulpit mount it might
The Garmin camera is fine but the paint finish is poor - has flaked off. Can redo easily of course, diy. It is also not cheap. It's a rebadged KJM C55, or perhaps a lower grade model of the KJM C55 because that one (I have one here in my hand bought in US) has more user-selectable functionality eg the user can flip it from normal view to reverse mirror view (at the camera end, not from the dashboard screen).
The Garmin camera is fine but the paint finish is poor - has flaked off. Can redo easily of course, diy. It is also not cheap. It's a rebadged KJM C55, or perhaps a lower grade model of the KJM C55 because that one (I have one here in my hand bought in US) has more user-selectable functionality eg the user can flip it from normal view to reverse mirror view (at the camera end, not from the dashboard screen).
jimmy_the_builder
Well-Known Member
My cam is at the other end of the scale to jfm's:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221277314108?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
I'm not hull mounting mine, so I just wanted something cheap and disposable. If it works out well, I can easily upgrade it later.
MYAG
Well-Known Member
Jimmy, that'll do the job nicely I reckon. I have always found that pretty much any quality camera shows a decent enough picture through an MFD for the uses intended. I would fit something similar if I operated the anchor from the bow. I must say this refit of yours is certainly hitting all the nice have/must have spots, great stuff.
Hurricane
Well-Known Member
Thanks Jimmy
I saw that one this morning when I was looking.
Didn't like the idea of a metal one - does it look OK?
My big problem is getting wires back and then up to the FB would be a nightmare.
All my conduits are chocka block with all the other systems.
I was wondering about a WiFi one - or maybe a WiFi transmit box fitted in the chain locker.
Then, I got my photos out and I'm now worried that any camera would be knocked off with lazy lines etc.
So, the idea is starting to take a back seat (again)
EDIT
With that camera, can you twist the view round like JFM's camera views.
If fitted to the hull like JFMs, I wouldn't want to have to turn my head to see the anchor.
It would need to be a "square on" view - of sorts.
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jfm
Well-Known Member
That looks good Jimmy - I've ordered a couple and will try them against Garmin (@£300 each and paint drops off in 18 months). Thanks for the pointer
jfm
Well-Known Member
Retro-fit cabling is always going to be a nightmare Hurricane. You're talking punching thru the anchor locker bulkhead, front cabin and bathroom ceilings down, urgh. I never contemplated fitting to my last boat and only did it on this boat because the cabling was installed in build (thanks to an original suggestion from you!).
Knocking with lazy lines is never a problem - the thing is sort of recessed with respect to the gunwhale edge of the boat, and lazy lines do not rub along the hull sides so they miss the camera. I've never had any problem on this score
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jimmy_the_builder
Well-Known Member
If I hadn't been d-cked about a bit by Force4 this week I'd have been able to show you my AncamMountTM
You'll have to use your imagination for a few days... but the basic idea is that the camera is mounted to a horizontal plate which bolts to the very front of the pulpit rail, but aft of the rail, if that makes sense. I'm going to put a jackstaff socket on the top of the plate and use that for my anchor ball. Here's a rough sketch. The camera is mounted underneath, facing straight down. Has a 3.6mm lens which should give a helpful viewing angle.
Cable routing is a issue, initially while still in proof-of-concept mode I'll probably just zip tie to the stanchions and route it into the chain locker, and thence into the boat. If it all works out I'll try and route it inside the pulpit itself.
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jfm
Well-Known Member
Jimmy, while you have UK-priced welders on hand I think you should weld the plate on. Then you can dispense with the "atop" mounting of the plate, and make the edge of the plate meet (and be welded to) the inside edge of the pulpit tube so that in cross section it is a lollipop lying horizontally. You then also dispense with the bolts. Would look a lot neater. While you're at it, drill the holes and thread the vid cables thru the pulpit tube. And you'll have to have the stanchion bases drilled too.
The only justification for not doing this and doing the cable tie thing is that you're experimenting. But you're not - this project IS going to work. And anyway, everything I've suggested above is reversible and there's a fantastic s/s fabrication firm in Biot (Polish Paul, my nbf).
If you were really experimenting, you'd cut the base in your picture above out of 4mm sheet plastic and attach it to the pulpit with cable ties. But you're not experimenting as I say. So weld the thing on!
PS it would be nice if the flagstff mount could cover the screw heads that hold the AnCam TM on
The only justification for not doing this and doing the cable tie thing is that you're experimenting. But you're not - this project IS going to work. And anyway, everything I've suggested above is reversible and there's a fantastic s/s fabrication firm in Biot (Polish Paul, my nbf).
If you were really experimenting, you'd cut the base in your picture above out of 4mm sheet plastic and attach it to the pulpit with cable ties. But you're not experimenting as I say. So weld the thing on!
PS it would be nice if the flagstff mount could cover the screw heads that hold the AnCam TM on
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Portofino
Well-Known Member
I,am salivating at the thought of Ancam .
If there had to be a queue for one ,I think I should up there at the front .
With out digging too deep research wise a iam thinking camera on / under bow small hole into locker .
Then wireless or wifi ( we have power -winch ,bow light and chain counter )
To hand held device -anybodies with codes eg I phone ? Or a dedicated tiny screen at the helm ?
It's on my somthing to do if I,am bored list .
TBH I have not really tried anchor retrieval with SWMBO -I have got that joy
to come .After which I may need to fit one !
at the thought of Ancam .If there had to be a queue for one ,I think I should up there at the front .
With out digging too deep research wise a iam thinking camera on / under bow small hole into locker .
Then wireless or wifi ( we have power -winch ,bow light and chain counter )
To hand held device -anybodies with codes eg I phone ? Or a dedicated tiny screen at the helm ?
It's on my somthing to do if I,am bored list .
TBH I have not really tried anchor retrieval with SWMBO -I have got that joy
to come .After which I may need to fit one !
jimmy_the_builder
Well-Known Member
I,am salivating
If there had to be a queue for one ,I think I should up there at the front .
With out digging too deep research wise a iam thinking camera on / under bow small hole into locker .
Then wireless or wifi ( we have power -winch ,bow light and chain counter )
To hand held device -anybodies with codes eg I phone ? Or a dedicated tiny screen at the helm ?
It's on my somthing to do if I,am bored list .
TBH I have not really tried anchor retrieval with SWMBO -I have got that joy
to come .After which I may need to fit one !
Easiest way to make it viewable on your iphone is probably just to buy a wireless ip cam, then use your ip cam viewer app of choice to view it (I use an app called 'ip cam viewer lite' on both android and apple devices to view the cameras at the house).
Google play store:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.rcreations.ipcamviewer&hl=en_GB
jimmy_the_builder
Well-Known Member
Jimmy, while you have UK-priced welders on hand I think you should weld the plate on. Then you can dispense with the "atop" mounting of the plate, and make the edge of the plate meet (and be welded to) the inside edge of the pulpit tube so that in cross section it is a lollipop lying horizontally. You then also dispense with the bolts. Would look a lot neater. While you're at it, drill the holes and thread the vid cables thru the pulpit tube. And you'll have to have the stanchion bases drilled too.
The only justification for not doing this and doing the cable tie thing is that you're experimenting. But you're not - this project IS going to work. And anyway, everything I've suggested above is reversible and there's a fantastic s/s fabrication firm in Biot (Polish Paul, my nbf).
If you were really experimenting, you'd cut the base in your picture above out of 4mm sheet plastic and attach it to the pulpit with cable ties. But you're not experimenting as I say. So weld the thing on!
PS it would be nice if the flagstff mount could cover the screw heads that hold the AnCam TM on
As it happens, welding it on to the pulpit was my first thought, but removing the pulpit is very non-trivial, and the boat (and pulpit) are 60m away from my fabricator (and the removed pulpit is too big for my truck). So a nicely-made bolt-on bracket is not a bad compromise.
jimmy_the_builder
Well-Known Member
As a complete change of subject, I'm being battered with conflicting advice about what to do about 10 years of antifoul. The yard are recommending Symblast, who are (a) quoting £720+vat but (b) are saying that an epoxy treatment will be required after blasting. Paul the grp man suggested scraping the old antifoul off by hand, but after trying a patch he's now advising that manual scraping is going to take too long. Jim Pritchard the surveyor suggested sanding the antifoul back a bit before applying new - but this ended up just instantly clogging up the sandpaper.
I like the idea of scraping it off but it seems very labour intensive and will end up costing not much less than blasting. My concern with blasting is the collateral damage - and I don't really understand what epoxy treatment means.
What (TF) now skipper??
I like the idea of scraping it off but it seems very labour intensive and will end up costing not much less than blasting. My concern with blasting is the collateral damage - and I don't really understand what epoxy treatment means.
What (TF) now skipper??
Nick_H
Well-Known Member
Have you used eroding or hard a/f? If eroding and not flaking off then I'd have thought you could remove some of it with a nylon scouring pad and running water to leave a nice key for the next coat, or even just spend a couple of hours with the yard's jet wash. If it's hard a/f then I guess it'll need scraping or blasting, or the one technique you haven't mentioned is antifoul remover such as Interstrip.
afaik, epoxy treatment means filling any larger voids exposed by the blasting with epoxy filler, then painting the whole hull with 2 coats of epoxy resin. On a quality boat like yours you probably wont need any filling.
If you have it blasted have you considered Coppercoat?
afaik, epoxy treatment means filling any larger voids exposed by the blasting with epoxy filler, then painting the whole hull with 2 coats of epoxy resin. On a quality boat like yours you probably wont need any filling.
If you have it blasted have you considered Coppercoat?
