Back to the UK for a winter refit

[jimmy_the_builder]

Ah that's an easy one...

Trend Marine - http://www.trendmarine.com/marine-glazing-products/fendering/

Apparently it comes in 50m lengths! Also try SealsDirect (search on their site for 'fender').

Failing the above BUK (EBY) will be able to source them.

Pete

j
Click around this
http://www.wilks.co.uk/Marine/BoatFendering/BoatFenderProductRange

Thanks both - Petem, I think you may have hit the nail on the head there, the first pic on the page that you linked to shows the same profile - excellent.

 

[aquapower]

Thanks both - Petem, I think you may have hit the nail on the head there, the first pic on the page that you linked to shows the same profile - excellent.

Trend should also be able to supply with correct bend and leave long to allow for extension of platform, this stuff isn't easy to shape without correct tooling. I have been to Trend where this is done, an interesting place to visit.

 

[jimmy_the_builder]

Work has progressed well on the bathing platform over the Christmas period - Paul the GRP man sent me these pics showing his work so far.

This is the eventual line that we agreed for the cut. The platform is cored, so the top and bottom cuts are different; the top cut is the centre line; the bottom cuts are the wider lines:

With the bottom cuts made, the existing coring is revealed:

The existing coring is removed:

We also found a fairly complex reinforcement along the transom edge of the platform, a combination of ply all across the edge, with additional aluminium reinforcing inserts around the fixings to the hull:

With the coring all removed, the top cut line is marked out. You can see the wiggles in the cut line that are needed to avoid the aluminium reinforcing:

And then (as the Spice Girls almost said) ... one becomes two. There was quite a bit of debate about exactly where the cut should emerge on the aft quarter of the existing platform. In the end we chose this particular route in order to preserve as much as possible the existing profile of the platform where it meets the main hull, but also preserve the flanges at the very end of the platform where the pods bolt on. This went well:

Next step is to make a template work surface, to which the bifurcated platform is fixed prior to lay-up:

After a bit of adjustment to get dimensions and alignment just so, the new coring is inserted. You can see a couple of timber pads that we've added - this is to receive the additional stainless supports when the platform is installed:

Glassing it in:

And this is how it looked this morning. You can see that the central stringers have been extended, and we've also added some reinforcing fillets at a weak point where the bathing ladder had previously caused some cracking to the trailing edge of the platform:

Paul's made terrific progress so far. There's still quite a bit to do on this main section, but if it goes to plan, we hope to dry-fit it to the boat in a couple of weeks time.

 

[Illusion]

It's coming along nicely!
Looking forward to seeing it when it's near the boat.

P

 

[benjenbav]

Anyway, back on topic: In the light of the quotes that I had been given for the various refurb tasks on the engines, I decided that I needed to be more closely involved in the work, so I can see where the money is being spent. It follows therefore that I need to carry out the refurb work a bit closer to home, so today I went along to Bursledon today and collected the engines and drives:

I dropped them off at Brighton Marina this afternoon; work starts next week.

I appreciate that the following comment is straight from the correspondence section of "Sheds and Shedmen" but that's a great-looking trailer...

Ahem, back to cataloguing my bolts and washers, I think.

 

[benjenbav]

Work has progressed well on the bathing platform over the Christmas period - Paul the GRP man sent me these pics showing his work so far.

This is the eventual line that we agreed for the cut. The platform is cored, so the top and bottom cuts are different; the top cut is the centre line; the bottom cuts are the wider lines:

That looks amazing. Better in every way. I think that prospective buyers of T40s will soon be asking why they have had their platforms shortened given that the OEM version "obviously" has the bigger platform.

Any idea why the original core had the linear scoring? Can't be a hidden atttempt to produce a faux-teak appearance can it? That would be silly. The new core looks much more as I would have expected.

 

[Hurricane]

Wow, Jimmy
When you first said you were going to use the old bathing platform, I couldn't see how it was going to work.
In fact, I didn't really understand all those cutting details
After those latest pics, though, I can see how it is all going to come together.
Please keep the pics coming if you can.
This is really interesting.
Mike

 

[Deleted User YDKXO]

Looking good, Jimmy. I love to see a craftsman at work doing something that I could never do!

 

[jfm]

Looking very very good Jimmy

 

[jfm]

I appreciate that the following comment is straight from the correspondence section of "Sheds and Shedmen" but that's a great-looking trailer...

Ahem, back to cataloguing my bolts and washers, I think.

And, shedmanishly, the tow truck too! Ten-four

 

[wakeup]

Looks good JTB.

Just a comment, I would have thought you will need to add two additional stringers one each equidistant between the central stringer and outer edge of the platform in the same orientation as the existing central stringers. It would seem to me that the sides of the OEM bathing platform are supported in original short form but won't have the same support in the extended form. It might not be necessary but easy to add them now and a pain the arse to do later if you find the outer quarter edges of the BT flex.

 

[jfm]

Looks good JTB.

Just a comment, I would have thought you will need to add two additional stringers one each equidistant between the central stringer and outer edge of the platform in the same orientation as the existing central stringers. It would seem to me that the sides of the OEM bathing platform are supported in original short form but won't have the same support in the extended form. It might not be necessary but easy to add them now and a pain the arse to do later if you find the outer quarter edges of the BT flex.

I see your logic Wakeup but remember there will be 2 new diagonal s/s support bars from bottom of transom (outboard of the drives) to the 2 new square s/s pads that you can see moulded into the extended platform. Hence, your proposed stringers are only needed to prevent the thing sagging between the 2 points of existing support, not to stop the cantilevered end from drooping.

As regards those two ply pads Jimmy, what's the plan? I would prefer 20mm thick ali, then drill+tap it M10/12. I wouldn't want wood screws or even coach screws into plywood with the pulsey impact loading that the platform will see underway. I guess you'll just through bolt and accept that if you ever need to undo the support arms you'll have to remove a couple of teak planks? If you don't want that, you could attach a thru-bolted s/s bracket, with the support bars then bolted to that bracket as opposed to bolted to the platform directly

Please excuse the couch engineering but it comes with the territory for threads like this!

 

[jfm]

Any idea why the original core had the linear scoring? .

To bend it. Remember, most GRP moulded surfaces have a slight curved in them, this platform being an exception, so boatbuilders hold more stock of scored. You can btw buy it scored criss cross, and unscored of course

 

[jimmy_the_builder]

I appreciate that the following comment is straight from the correspondence section of "Sheds and Shedmen" but that's a great-looking trailer...

Ahem, back to cataloguing my bolts and washers, I think.

One of Ifor Williams finest, the LM146

 

[jimmy_the_builder]

Looks good JTB.

Just a comment, I would have thought you will need to add two additional stringers one each equidistant between the central stringer and outer edge of the platform in the same orientation as the existing central stringers. It would seem to me that the sides of the OEM bathing platform are supported in original short form but won't have the same support in the extended form. It might not be necessary but easy to add them now and a pain the arse to do later if you find the outer quarter edges of the BT flex.

Jfm's answered this below - but to add, the extended flange at aft sides of the platform inherently has quite a bit of rigidity, just by virtue of being a corner. This, and the new two support arms, should do the trick. However, as a contingency, the initial fit is a dry fit (ie no silicone) so that we can fit it up, then get the stainless fabricated and fitted - and then jump up and down on the extreme corners, just to see how bendy it actually is. If we've still got a flexing problem, then we still have time available to drop the platform back out and fabricate some additional stringers (probably along the side edges).

 

[jfm]

One of Ifor Williams finest, the LM146

http://www.iwt.co.uk/products/flatbed/lt-and-lm?tab=spec [/deserves a link]

 

[wakeup]

I'd obviously fallen asleep in my fire side engineer's armchair and missed the bit about stainless supports.

Sounds like a good plan JTB. Do you have a properly calibrated fat bastard to jump up and down on the BT

 

[jimmy_the_builder]

As regards those two ply pads Jimmy, what's the plan? I would prefer 20mm thick ali, then drill+tap it M10/12. I wouldn't want wood screws or even coach screws into plywood with the pulsey impact loading that the platform will see underway. I guess you'll just through bolt and accept that if you ever need to undo the support arms you'll have to remove a couple of teak planks? If you don't want that, you could attach a thru-bolted s/s bracket, with the support bars then bolted to that bracket as opposed to bolted to the platform directly

Please excuse the couch engineering but it comes with the territory for threads like this!

Through bolt under the teak. The existing strut is similarly through bolted, although the bolt heads are in the bathing ladder locker (under a conveniently-placed safety sticker) so not hugely difficult to remove. That said - there's never been a need to remove this strut until now, and it's hard to think of a post-installation reason why you'd want to remove the struts at all. The plan is for the platform to be teaked at the very end of the project, so plenty of time for adjustment yet.

 

[jimmy_the_builder]

I'd obviously fallen asleep in my fire side engineer's armchair and missed the bit about stainless supports.

Sounds like a good plan JTB. Do you have a properly calibrated fat bastard to jump up and down on the BT

What, apart from me, you mean?? Tell you what, you come down as well, and I'll get Nick_h to pop over to demonstrate his black water pipe 'technique', that should get us jumping around a bit...

I did wonder about just sticking four bags of dust on the corner, and measuring the deflection. Or is that a bit sad?

 

[wakeup]

What, apart from me, you mean?? Tell you what, you come down as well, and I'll get Nick_h to pop over to demonstrate his black water pipe 'technique', that should get us jumping around a bit...

You need to add eight more stringers with me leaping about on the BT.

I did wonder about just sticking four bags of dust on the corner, and measuring the deflection. Or is that a bit sad?

Quite seriously someone on here must have the data and sums for deflection of GRP for a given thickness and length?