Back to the UK for a winter refit

D6 Raw Water Filer Cap - New v3

Now come on Jimmy, stop being a size queen and a snob :p

D4 has largely same ancillaries except it is two pots shorter, exactly the same raw water assembly.

See here, copyright belongs to EBY, taken from one of their T38s with D6 370s. I have seen these on both D4 and D6s since around 2012. There is a quick release hoop which holds the cap on.

D6.jpg

Also note the very nice and shiny belt covers which I don't have.
 
Last edited:
Now come on Jimmy, stop being a size queen and a snob :p

D4 has largely same ancillaries except it is two pots shorter, exactly the same raw water assembly.

See here, copyright belongs to EBY, taken from one of their T38s with D6 370s. I have seen these on both D4 and D6s since around 2012. There is a quick release hoop which holds the cap on.

View attachment 47473


Sorry love, can't help it if mine's bigger than yours :D:D

Actually, that looks like a generally better design - because it's applying a continuous band of pressure all round the top of the strainer. I'll ask RK Marine about it - thanks for the tip. My prev boat had the D6-435's with remote strainer assemblies, much nicer all round - but quite a big change to make to an outdrive installation.
 
I have asked the question, I'll let you know.

... and the answer is:

There is a sea water filter lid with a quick release assembly but this applies to later engines with a different pump which is not compatible with your pump.

A little bit more digging shows the quick-release lid on the later D6's:

25451.jpg


Bah!
 
Yep, it's definitely the strainers. When the D6 was first launched they were supplied with a black plastic strainer cap that was easy to cross-thread, and leaks were common. Eventually, Volvo realised that there really was a problem and designed a replacement strainer cap assembly. Once of the first things I did when I bought the boat was fit these redesigned strainer caps - but of course the damage had already been done.

I did notice on Wednesday that part of the replacement strainer cap assembly has also corroded, which is making me wonder how effective these redesigned lids are. I guess it would be possible to completely replace the entire assembly, although that might be a bit ott.

IMG_0577_zps58d1f7ce.jpg

It makes you wonder doesn't it, how anyone came to design an assembly that was certain to be exposed to salt water out of a metal which would inevitably corrode as a consequence...
 
Jimmy

what are your views on LEDs for internal use now that they have become much more sophisticated in colour temperature and controls ? Or do you already have the boat converted ?

I can't see any mobo not having a surplus of battery capacity unlike raggies.
 
Last edited:
Jimmy

what are your views on LEDs for internal use now that they have become much more sophisticated in colour temperature and controls ? Or do you already have the boat converted ?

I can't any mobo not having a surplus of battery capacity unlike raggies.

Replacement of the internal light fittings with led's is on the list (it's one of the 40-odd minor jobs that I didn't list in my first post). I haven't done the research yet, but what I'm after are warm white led's that'll replace my existing g4 bulbs, so that I don't have to change the fittings. I also have some oe rope lighting in the saloon that is very nice mood lighting but is not (I don't think) led, and it would be nice to change that also. Lighting is the biggest consumer of batteries when at anchor, so it is definitely something I'd like to address. The only fitting I've changed so far is the anchor light (where colour temperature is not so important :D).
 
Replacement of the internal light fittings with led's is on the list (it's one of the 40-odd minor jobs that I didn't list in my first post). I haven't done the research yet, but what I'm after are warm white led's that'll replace my existing g4 bulbs, so that I don't have to change the fittings. I also have some oe rope lighting in the saloon that is very nice mood lighting but is not (I don't think) led, and it would be nice to change that also. Lighting is the biggest consumer of batteries when at anchor, so it is definitely something I'd like to address. The only fitting I've changed so far is the anchor light (where colour temperature is not so important :D).

Jimmy

Have a look here. http://www.boatlamps.co.uk/

The owner is a poster here and we have found the stuff he sells good. Prompt and knowledgeable service too. No connection.

One small thought. If you have replaced the standard vertical filament bulb in your anchor light with a led bulb, it should really be a cool white one. Have a look at the boaplamps one and you will see they do one with an integral light sensor. So, you dont even have to remember to turn it on ( or even be on board) for it to go on and off at the correct time. :D
 
Is it a Targa 40, or am I on the wrong thread?
By the way, I think that is enough photos of people dressed up in uniforms, Jimmy.
 
L

Great thread, Greg. What did you use for degreasing? I don't suppose there's some magic spray that does all the work for you? :)

We used EVM (EnVirosol Marine) which is a multi purpose cleaner that friends of ours used to market, it is truly superb and we use it for everything on the boat. If you Google EVM marine cleaner you will find it is still available....Jones at St Ives in Cambs are still advertising it.
 
Jimmy

Have a look here. http://www.boatlamps.co.uk/

The owner is a poster here and we have found the stuff he sells good. Prompt and knowledgeable service too. No connection.

One small thought. If you have replaced the standard vertical filament bulb in your anchor light with a led bulb, it should really be a cool white one. Have a look at the boaplamps one and you will see they do one with an integral light sensor. So, you dont even have to remember to turn it on ( or even be on board) for it to go on and off at the correct time. :D

Thanks for that. However, that site doesn't give CRI figures for the fittings I need, and from other threads on this subject I think the CRI number is an important measure of the quality of the light.
 
Thanks for that. However, that site doesn't give CRI figures for the fittings I need, and from other threads on this subject I think the CRI number is an important measure of the quality of the light.

probably jfm would know more, but I doubt replacement for G4s or whatever such bulb are going to be decently designed and of high CRI. You'll probably have to bite the bullet and get some proper replacement fixtures.

cheers

V.
 
Thanks for that. However, that site doesn't give CRI figures for the fittings I need, and from other threads on this subject I think the CRI number is an important measure of the quality of the light.

You could try sending him a note asking for the additional information, or you could buy a couple and see what you think.
 
We used EVM (EnVirosol Marine) which is a multi purpose cleaner that friends of ours used to market, it is truly superb and we use it for everything on the boat. If you Google EVM marine cleaner you will find it is still available....Jones at St Ives in Cambs are still advertising it.
Thanks very much for that. We'll track it down.
 
I replaced the lights on my t40 twice with ebay ones. The result was not great.

The deck lights were all cool white and were excellent. Inside I went for warm white and it was not good.

Borrow some first or buy one to see what you think.

Our house ones are all dimmable led ( not expensive) and are excellent. From my own limited experience I would say changing fittings is likely but house fittings are not dear.
 
I replaced the lights on my t40 twice with ebay ones. The result was not great.

The deck lights were all cool white and were excellent. Inside I went for warm white and it was not good.

Borrow some first or buy one to see what you think.

Our house ones are all dimmable led ( not expensive) and are excellent. From my own limited experience I would say changing fittings is likely but house fittings are not dear.

The main reason I'd prefer to avoid changing the fittings is not aesthetic, it's the headlinings in the saloon and cabins. I don't want to have to do any making good or replacement of those to accommodate different-shaped fittings.

My low-level cockpit lights are already warm white led and I'm very pleased with them. One area I do want to add lighting is the engine room, in fact that'll be job #2 after cleaning the bilge.
 
Top