Azimut 42 Flybridge

sap_2000

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Thanks for your very useful post JFM!
Is the emptying of the vacuum tank to holding tank automated or needed to do manually.

Are valve/ seals problems common or does it work for long periods of time without problems if used properly?
I'm asking because the thought of stuck waste system makes me want to throw up, lol.
Would not want to fix it twice a week if you understand ;)
Would winterizing be a problem with such a system?
 

volvopaul

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Sadly, I'm very familiar with (Sealand/dometic) Vac toilets. Had them 5 years on my first Sq58. As an overall summary they're pretty good, but if the italian Tecma is 10/10, which in this size category of boat it is, the vacuums are 7/10. If you ever have to change the whole thing, fit Tecma, but if the vacs are working ok, keep 'em I'd suggest. They are much better than the Jabsco electric or manual models, for example

Here's how they work.

1. At base of W/C there is an airtight slide valve/flap. yopu can see it at bottom of bowl. If you lose vacuum, you need to change or clean this. Easy job. Always keep a tiny pudde of flushwater in the bowl because (a) it seals the vacuum and (b) if it disappears it tells you the slide vlave or flap is slowly leaking

2. Then there is 2m or so of 38mm white poo pipe going from WC to a 20litre vacuum tank, probably under the floor. Looks like a mini holding tank, with a Sealand T series pump bolted to the top. In service, the 2m of pipe and the vac tank is ALWAYS under vacuum, and any time it loses vacuum the vac switch will close and tell the vac pump to create/refresh the vaccum

3. Vac pump is a standard T series, double duckbill vlave diaphragm pump, 12 or 24v DC. If systems loses its function it is highly likely you need to change the duckbill valves in the pump as the good closing of these is fundamental to making the vacuum. Very easy job, esp with latex gloves. Undo unions, pull out old valves, put in new, close union. Really annoying these are £20 a set. When removing the unions, remeber, and I've no idea why those yank Sealand engineers did this, THE THREADS ARE LEFT HAND. THERE IS NO INDICATION ON THE PUMP TO TELL YOU THIS< FFS!

4. Somewhat cunningly, the Sealand pump isn't JUST a Vac pump. It also pumps shoite. So here's the architecture of the system

a, Vac tank is "permanently" in a vacuum state ("evacuated" is the word).
b, you use loo,
c, you open the slide vlave to flush (foot on pedal)
d, immedaitely the shoite whooshes to the vac tank, very fast
e, vac is lost now so vac pump starts
f. shut the slide valve (foot off pedal)
g, pump BOTH pumps waste out of vac tank to sea or balck tank AND recreates the vac.

5. when flushing er solids remeber the vac is lost if there is no fluid in the bowl. and the air will overtake the solids. So when flushing, make sure there is lots of water int he bowl before pressing the pedal. The way to keep these things working well (Tecma too) is use LOADS of flushwater. Dont do the raggie thing where you try to use minimum water to flush. After you press the flush pedal KEEP IT PRESSED so lots of flush water follows the shoite down the pipe

If you have a vac leak (most likely the slide vlave or a poor duckbill, you'll hear the vac pump start up randomly when no-one is using the loo.

I'm er quite intimate with this hardware :)

Fab reply John, I'd almost say your an expert in ****e technology! Pardon the pun.

Btw I sent you a picture to your works email, don know if you got it? A reminder of your boating days way back.
 

jfm

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Is the emptying of the vacuum tank to holding tank automated or needed to do manually.

It's automatic. Every time you flush the loo (a) the contents of the bowl swoosh fast to the vacuum tank, and (b) then the pump starts and it both empties (almost) that vac tank and pumps the waste (pushes it, no vacuum involved at this point) to the holding tank. See, the vac tank operates as a "staging post" tank. Initially the waste goes into the vac tank. Then as the pump operates, it BOTH pushes the waste to the black tank (or sea) AND recreates the vacuum behind it. Two things in one. Much easier to explain in a sketch than with a keyboard, lol!

Are valve/ seals problems common or does it work for long periods of time without problems if used properly??
No, these are small issues. If you flush it well, plenty of flushwater, you're looking at having to change a valve (or a set) only every 3-5 years. If the system isn't used well, you get blockages and stuff and have to erm manually clear it. Use not-too-strong tiolet paper and always leave a small puddle in the bowl. Be very generois with flush water. Remember the left hand threads too - I write it in marker pen on the unions! When you leave the boat, turn the vac pumps off at the power panel becuase if you got a vac leak they would run and run till they destroyed themselves. Oh, and did i say, use lots of flushwater

I'm asking because the thought of stuck waste system makes me want to throw up, lol.
You'd better get used to it if you are planning owning a 42 foot boat I'm afraid. Last season I was running £2m+ of brand new boat and you'd think you wouldn't have to deal with such things. It had god knows how many loos and 3 holding tank systems. Fact is, between zilliosn of visits by guests I got pretty intimate with the inner workings. You just have to get used to it... :D :D

(remember also the chocolate trick, qv a post by tcm a few years ago abut him and me doing a bog repair with guests on board)
 

jfm

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Fab reply John, I'd almost say your an expert in ****e technology! Pardon the pun.

Btw I sent you a picture to your works email, don know if you got it? A reminder of your boating days way back.

No I didn't get it Paul. Sorry, but we have a heavy spam filter on ffice email here. Can you resend plse sometime? Use same 6 letters of email (my name) but use @btinternet dot com. Cheers
 

benjenbav

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I'm no expert on Azimut 42 but was passed by one going like stink, heading for Yarmouth on Saturday and which was managing to look very tidy in the process.
 

Arnold41970

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Hi all, I ‘m new to this forum and in process of buying a 42. The engines (cat 3126) didn’t had service for about 8 years and the boat was stored on shore because the owner was very sick. The cats seems to be reliable and looking for a manual. Anyone can help me? Also reading that there are approx 20 anode? I’m coming from a Bayliner 285 (single engine) and have to start finding information all over again :). Hope you can direct me in the right direction. I’m impressed by this 42, great looks and amazing space. Greets from Holland
 

rafiki_

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Welcome Arnold. I had an Azi 39 with twin 3126’s. Never had any problems with mine. There were 10 pencil anodes in the cooling system for each engine. Try a Google to find out where they are situated. I had a parts manual with mine that showed the anodes. You should also change the impeller in each water pump. You have to remove the pump to access the impeller. This is on the left side of each engine. Starboard engine is easy to access, port not so easy. You may need a mechanic to show you the first time. Check the alternator belts. You probably need new ones. Change the oil, filters and fuel filters. Having been left for so long, there is a danger that there will be diesel bug in the fuel. This will need either dosing, try Marine 16, or polishing. A specialist can do this. Check all the sea cocks for corrosion and operation. Not just the engines. Corroded sea cocks can fail drastically.
You have bought a great boat, with strong engines.
 

Arnold41970

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Welcome Arnold. I had an Azi 39 with twin 3126’s. Never had any problems with mine. There were 10 pencil anodes in the cooling system for each engine. Try a Google to find out where they are situated. I had a parts manual with mine that showed the anodes. You should also change the impeller in each water pump. You have to remove the pump to access the impeller. This is on the left side of each engine. Starboard engine is easy to access, port not so easy. You may need a mechanic to show you the first time. Check the alternator belts. You probably need new ones. Change the oil, filters and fuel filters. Having been left for so long, there is a danger that there will be diesel bug in the fuel. This will need either dosing, try Marine 16, or polishing. A specialist can do this. Check all the sea cocks for corrosion and operation. Not just the engines. Corroded sea cocks can fail drastically.
You have bought a great boat, with strong engines.
Appreciate thx for your reply. The sneller change filters, oil, imprellors and more. Tip about seacocks is a good one! Still in negotiation and if it will not work out will consider a Fairline planting 40 or give it more time. Great and big step coming from 28ft ?
 

rafiki_

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Azi has a lot more space than the Fairline, which is quite narrow in the beam. Super comfortable seakeeping with the Azi but the Fairline will be a bit faster.
The other check on the Cat 3126 is valve clearance. Should be checked every 250 hours. Worth checking with the seller as this is a specialist job and could cost €1000.
 

PowerYachtBlog

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Azi has a lot more space than the Fairline, which is quite narrow in the beam.

The Azimut 39 and 42 where actually narrower then an equivalent Phantom 40 and 43. 18 deg AZ39 17 deg for Az42 closing deadrise versus the 18 of the Fairline.
The a bit wider one (same period Azimut) would be the 46 versus the Phantom 46, though Az 46 is a bit of a larger boat measuring 14.9 m overall versus the 14.5 of the Fairline. 4.4 vs 4.3 beam
 
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Sticky Fingers

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Hi all, I ‘m new to this forum and in process of buying a 42. The engines (cat 3126) didn’t had service for about 8 years and the boat was stored on shore because the owner was very sick. The cats seems to be reliable and looking for a manual. Anyone can help me? Also reading that there are approx 20 anode? I’m coming from a Bayliner 285 (single engine) and have to start finding information all over again :). Hope you can direct me in the right direction. I’m impressed by this 42, great looks and amazing space. Greets from Holland
Welcome along ? is this White Mischief?
 

Arnold41970

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Azi has a lot more space than the Fairline, which is quite narrow in the beam. Super comfortable seakeeping with the Azi but the Fairline will be a bit faster.
The other check on the Cat 3126 is valve clearance. Should be checked every 250 hours. Worth checking with the seller as this is a specialist job and could cost €1000.

We are not boating at sea. I already asked if they have done the check on the valves but no. I now understand why then. But it seems to run ok. Why is this so expensive? Should be standard maintenance in mine opinion
 

rafiki_

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We are not boating at sea. I already asked if they have done the check on the valves but no. I now understand why then. But it seems to run ok. Why is this so expensive? Should be standard maintenance in mine opinion
In the UK, Caterpillar appointed Finnings as their marine agents. Specialist tools are required for this job, and Finnings won’t sell them to anybody else, so we have to pay travelling time as well as time for the job. I think this is the same in other countries. Ignore this service action at your peril as it could end in valve/piston damage, which is really expensive.
 

Nick1150

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Waking up this thread.....

Is there someone who has sailed an Azimut 42 Fly (era 1997-2006) with twin cats 3126 and can report how she handles?

My sailing area for those who may know is the Aegean sea, Greece.

Thanks
 

PowerYachtBlog

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I have sailed an Azimut 42 with Cats 3126 390hp for a month or so, in local waters.

Truth be told she is a great boat with those engines, and really handles a chop well.
So up until about one meter waves no worry at all.
 
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