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Would agree, mine are slightly more nosier than volvos
Azimut 42 Flybridge
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Would agree, mine are slightly more nosier than volvos
LOL 5 or 6 years... Try 13 years ago!
Bloody good review though. Just been reading it this morning.
Regards fuel consumption. Yes incredibly good figures suggested.
2,200 rpm for 25.2 knots for 1.68nmpg
2300 rpm for 27.0 knots for 1.6nmpg
Don't know how accurate the figures are, but even if they are close they are very good.
Edit to add: The model may have been launched way back in '99, but they are still astoundingly good looking today. Was wandering over our 2006 Evolution model a few minutes ago and she still looks great sat between a new Squadron 42 and Princess 42.
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Deleted User YDKXO
Guest
I remember that test too but does anyone really believe that an AZ42 can achieve 1.6 nmpg @ 27kts when most 40ft flybridge boats would struggle to achieve 1 nmpg at the same speed? I don't. More likely the hacks at MBY forgot to double the fuel flow data for twin engines IMHO.
My AZ46 achieved about 0.8nmpg @ 20kts so I'm very sceptical about the AZ42 figures
I think you would have to take them with a pinch of salt.
PowerYachtBlog
Well-known member
Of my mind the Azimut 42 I helmed consumed about 100 lph at 22 knots, which was very good considering she weighed a ton more then a Fairline 42 Phantom which I think consumed an extra 10 liters in the same speed with Volvo 370hp, and was at top end a slower boat. Fairline has smaller LOA and Waterline, but wider in beam.
Azimut 42 was released in Genoa 1997, and was produced till 2007 (2005 till 2007 as Evolution). Evolution had semi-matt cherry wood, mirror windows, and I think port holes are stainless steel frames.
I think Azimut sold over 500 units in total.
Mike F the Azimut 46 is much heavier boat (4-5 tons more), beamier, deeper V 19 degrees for 46 and 17 for 42 aft and is also a slower boat. Both boats AFAIK come from a Bernard Olesinski hull. They had the 8 cylinder Cats 435hp which are an older generation engine (80s) to the 6 cylinder (90s) of the 42 and consume IMO about 25% more in similar HP digits.
Azimut 42 was released in Genoa 1997, and was produced till 2007 (2005 till 2007 as Evolution). Evolution had semi-matt cherry wood, mirror windows, and I think port holes are stainless steel frames.
I think Azimut sold over 500 units in total.
Mike F the Azimut 46 is much heavier boat (4-5 tons more), beamier, deeper V 19 degrees for 46 and 17 for 42 aft and is also a slower boat. Both boats AFAIK come from a Bernard Olesinski hull. They had the 8 cylinder Cats 435hp which are an older generation engine (80s) to the 6 cylinder (90s) of the 42 and consume IMO about 25% more in similar HP digits.
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Switch
Active member
I knew you couldn't resist a comment for long....
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Deleted User YDKXO
Guest
PYB, I'm aware of all that but it still doesn't explain why the AZ42 is apparently so much more fuel efficient. Anyway according to your figures, it isn't. 100lph @ 22kts is 1 nmpg, not anywhere near the 1.6nmpg claimed by MBY which tends to back up what I'm saying.
Re osmosis, I did experience some blistering on the hull of my AZ46 which was only picked up by the surveyor when I sold the boat. The blisters were around the transom area. In fairness to Azimut, they paid for the repairs even though the hull was out of warranty and the sale went through eventually
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sap_2000
Member
Hi all.
I'm looking at a 2001 AZ39 with twin 355hp Cats.
For those of you that has experience with the vacuum toilet system. How does it work? How is the vacuum pump, waste tank system configurated?
Is this a durable system, or is it prone to give headache with age?
I am bit skeptical to this system and would prefer a traditional setup, but are my worries groundless?
I'm looking at a 2001 AZ39 with twin 355hp Cats.
For those of you that has experience with the vacuum toilet system. How does it work? How is the vacuum pump, waste tank system configurated?
Is this a durable system, or is it prone to give headache with age?
I am bit skeptical to this system and would prefer a traditional setup, but are my worries groundless?
D
Deleted User YDKXO
Guest
If they are Tecma toilets, which they are likely to be on an Italian boat, they are excellent units and you are unlikely to experience any problems
http://www.tecma.eu/?steID=1&catID=48
The only issue I've experienced with the Tecma toilets I've had on various boats has been a failed control panel. I now keep a spare on board
sap_2000
Member
I believe they are Sealand toilets and does not have electronic control panel. Just a lever.
I was more interested in the vacuum system itself, with pumps, tanks etc and how they work.
I guess it must be a vacuum pump that runs all the time to keep the vacuum up?
I am a bit worried about power consumption as well since we use our boats quite a lot in natural harbors away from marinas with shore power.
I was more interested in the vacuum system itself, with pumps, tanks etc and how they work.
I guess it must be a vacuum pump that runs all the time to keep the vacuum up?
I am a bit worried about power consumption as well since we use our boats quite a lot in natural harbors away from marinas with shore power.
rafiki_
Well-known member
Sap, I am following this with interest, as I like look of the Azimut 39 too. I don't think the Vacu pumps are electrically powered, but I'm not sure how the vacuum is generated. Also interested in any other experience with the Azimut.
johang
New member
Azimut 43 fly
I am looking at a 43 flybridge -2006 with Cummings 425. Is it the same boat as the 42 you discuss here?
I am looking at a 43 flybridge -2006 with Cummings 425. Is it the same boat as the 42 you discuss here?
Try contacting Nick Trainer from Meridian Yachts. 07880550900
Now a surveyor come, charter skipper (on Azimuts), come contract maintenance man he is a fully trained Azimut Engineer and has perhaps more experience all in than most owners and anyone currently working with "new" Azimuts.
A lifetime around boats, but Azimut experience gained when they were being sold in numbers to UK clients here and abroad through the early / mid 00s.
Nick is a very decent chap and will no doubt be happy to offer sensible advice on key things to look out for on pretty much any boat in the UK range up to models in the 60' area.
If you needed a clued up surveyor at the point of purchase he would be a good choice too.
rafiki_
Well-known member
jfm
Well-known member
Sadly, I'm very familiar with (Sealand/dometic) Vac toilets. Had them 5 years on my first Sq58. As an overall summary they're pretty good, but if the italian Tecma is 10/10, which in this size category of boat it is, the vacuums are 7/10. If you ever have to change the whole thing, fit Tecma, but if the vacs are working ok, keep 'em I'd suggest. They are much better than the Jabsco electric or manual models, for example
Here's how they work.
1. At base of W/C there is an airtight slide valve/flap. yopu can see it at bottom of bowl. If you lose vacuum, you need to change or clean this. Easy job. Always keep a tiny pudde of flushwater in the bowl because (a) it seals the vacuum and (b) if it disappears it tells you the slide vlave or flap is slowly leaking
2. Then there is 2m or so of 38mm white poo pipe going from WC to a 20litre vacuum tank, probably under the floor. Looks like a mini holding tank, with a Sealand T series pump bolted to the top. In service, the 2m of pipe and the vac tank is ALWAYS under vacuum, and any time it loses vacuum the vac switch will close and tell the vac pump to create/refresh the vaccum
3. Vac pump is a standard T series, double duckbill vlave diaphragm pump, 12 or 24v DC. If systems loses its function it is highly likely you need to change the duckbill valves in the pump as the good closing of these is fundamental to making the vacuum. Very easy job, esp with latex gloves. Undo unions, pull out old valves, put in new, close union. Really annoying these are £20 a set. When removing the unions, remeber, and I've no idea why those yank Sealand engineers did this, THE THREADS ARE LEFT HAND. THERE IS NO INDICATION ON THE PUMP TO TELL YOU THIS< FFS!
4. Somewhat cunningly, the Sealand pump isn't JUST a Vac pump. It also pumps shoite. So here's the architecture of the system
a, Vac tank is "permanently" in a vacuum state ("evacuated" is the word).
b, you use loo,
c, you open the slide vlave to flush (foot on pedal)
d, immedaitely the shoite whooshes to the vac tank, very fast
e, vac is lost now so vac pump starts
f. shut the slide valve (foot off pedal)
g, pump BOTH pumps waste out of vac tank to sea or balck tank AND recreates the vac.
5. when flushing er solids remeber the vac is lost if there is no fluid in the bowl. and the air will overtake the solids. So when flushing, make sure there is lots of water int he bowl before pressing the pedal. The way to keep these things working well (Tecma too) is use LOADS of flushwater. Dont do the raggie thing where you try to use minimum water to flush. After you press the flush pedal KEEP IT PRESSED so lots of flush water follows the shoite down the pipe
If you have a vac leak (most likely the slide vlave or a poor duckbill, you'll hear the vac pump start up randomly when no-one is using the loo.
I'm er quite intimate with this hardware
Here's how they work.
1. At base of W/C there is an airtight slide valve/flap. yopu can see it at bottom of bowl. If you lose vacuum, you need to change or clean this. Easy job. Always keep a tiny pudde of flushwater in the bowl because (a) it seals the vacuum and (b) if it disappears it tells you the slide vlave or flap is slowly leaking
2. Then there is 2m or so of 38mm white poo pipe going from WC to a 20litre vacuum tank, probably under the floor. Looks like a mini holding tank, with a Sealand T series pump bolted to the top. In service, the 2m of pipe and the vac tank is ALWAYS under vacuum, and any time it loses vacuum the vac switch will close and tell the vac pump to create/refresh the vaccum
3. Vac pump is a standard T series, double duckbill vlave diaphragm pump, 12 or 24v DC. If systems loses its function it is highly likely you need to change the duckbill valves in the pump as the good closing of these is fundamental to making the vacuum. Very easy job, esp with latex gloves. Undo unions, pull out old valves, put in new, close union. Really annoying these are £20 a set. When removing the unions, remeber, and I've no idea why those yank Sealand engineers did this, THE THREADS ARE LEFT HAND. THERE IS NO INDICATION ON THE PUMP TO TELL YOU THIS< FFS!
4. Somewhat cunningly, the Sealand pump isn't JUST a Vac pump. It also pumps shoite. So here's the architecture of the system
a, Vac tank is "permanently" in a vacuum state ("evacuated" is the word).
b, you use loo,
c, you open the slide vlave to flush (foot on pedal)
d, immedaitely the shoite whooshes to the vac tank, very fast
e, vac is lost now so vac pump starts
f. shut the slide valve (foot off pedal)
g, pump BOTH pumps waste out of vac tank to sea or balck tank AND recreates the vac.
5. when flushing er solids remeber the vac is lost if there is no fluid in the bowl. and the air will overtake the solids. So when flushing, make sure there is lots of water int he bowl before pressing the pedal. The way to keep these things working well (Tecma too) is use LOADS of flushwater. Dont do the raggie thing where you try to use minimum water to flush. After you press the flush pedal KEEP IT PRESSED so lots of flush water follows the shoite down the pipe
If you have a vac leak (most likely the slide vlave or a poor duckbill, you'll hear the vac pump start up randomly when no-one is using the loo.
I'm er quite intimate with this hardware
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rafiki_
Well-known member
Sadly, I'm very familiar with (Sealand/dometic) Vac toilets. Had them 5 years on my first Sq58. As an overall summary they're pretty good, but if the italian Tecma is 10/10, which in this size category of boat it is, the vacuums are 7/10. If you ever have to change the whole thing, fit Tecma, but if the vacs are working ok, keep 'em I'd suggest. They are much better than the Jabsco electric or manual models, for example
Here's how they work.
1. At base of W/C there is an airtight slide valve/flap. yopu can see it at bottom of bowl. If you lose vacuum, you need to change or clean this. Easy job. Always keep a tiny pudde of flushwater in the bowl because (a) it seals the vacuum and (b) if it disappears it tells you the slide vlave or flap is slowly leaking
2. Then there is 2m or so of 38mm white poo pipe going from WC to a 20litre vacuum tank, probably under the floor. Looks like a mini holding tank, with a Sealand T series pump bolted to the top. In service, the 2m of pipe and the vac tank is ALWAYS under vacuum, and any time it loses vacuum the vac switch will close and tell the vac pump to create/refresh the vaccum
3. Vac pump is a standard T series, double duckbill vlave diaphragm pump, 12 or 24v DC. If systems loses its function it is highly likely you need to change the duckbill valves in the pump as the good closing of these is fundamental to making the vacuum. Very easy job, esp with latex gloves. Undo unions, pull out old valves, put in new, close union. Really annoying these are £20 a set. When removing the unions, remeber, and I've no idea why those yank Sealand engineers did this, THE THREADS ARE LEFT HAND. THERE IS NO INDICATION ON THE PUMP TO TELL YOU THIS< FFS!
4. Somewhat cunningly, the Sealand pump isn't JUST a Vac pump. It also pumps shoite. So here's the architecture of the system
a, Vac tank is "permanently" in a vacuum state ("evacuated" is the word).
b, you use loo,
c, you open the slide vlave to flush (foot on pedal)
d, immedaitely the shoite whooshes to the vac tank, very fast
e, vac is lost now so vac pump starts
f. shut the slide valve (foot off pedal)
g, pump BOTH pumps waste out of vac tank to sea or balck tank AND recreates the vac.
5. when flushing er solids remeber the vac is lost if there is no fluid in the bowl. and the air will overtake the solids. So when flushing, make sure there is lots of water int he bowl before pressing the pedal. The way to keep these things working well (Tecma too) is use LOADS of flushwater. Dont do the raggie thing where you try to use minimum water to flush. After you press the flush pedal KEEP IT PRESSED so lots of flush water follows the shoite down the pipe
If you have a vac leak (most likely the slide vlave or a poor duckbill, you'll hear the vac pump start up randomly when no-one is using the loo.
I'm er quite intimate with this hardware
Here endeth the Lesson for Today
Many thanks JFM, very useful as ever.
CMJ
Member
+1 ......great guy
jfm
Well-known member
The Sealand vac pump runs for about 15 seconds per flush, 10amps at 24v and 20amps at 12v. Other than that, the system draws no current at all. There is zero current draw when it's on standby
rafiki_
Well-known member
All the Azi specs that I have seen to date quote generators at 9+kVA, so you are unlikely to have a power shortage wherever you park. Most are specced for Med A/C's hence the Gennie power. If your heads need more than this, you have a serious gastric challenge
