Axle stands vs concrete blocks

I bought two scaffolding boards about 13ft long yesterday from a scaffolding company.
When boards get damaged or crack they have to dispose of them.

£5 each.

Cut up they would make great chocks or plates for axle stands to rest on. I have a different use for them
 
sarabande said:
don't use old railway sleepers ! They are extremely heavy, very slippery (old oil and general crud) and very expensive for that they are.

(Our local supplier says that they are told by H&S to wear gloves at all times when handling them, as they can be contaminated with human sewage. :eek: )
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Most "Railway Sleepers" aren't actually railway sleepers, these days. As I mentioned, our local shed merchant sells them, and they haven't been used on the railways!

"Ground Force" has had a lot to do with people trying to source them, and the supply of actual used railway sleepers far outstrips demand.

Actually, I'd check out fence-posts at my local builders' merchant; 4x4 lumps of treated timber sound like a sensible way forward.
 
VicS said:
Concrete block are usually frowned upon for supporting loads but for just relieving the load from the trailer wheels I dont see much of a problem.

Put a piece of wood on the top to actually cushion the trailer weight perhaps
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+1

At my club it's usually a mix of any or all of ... concrete blocks, breezeblocks, or chopped up railway sleepers....
 
rob2 said:
Whether wood or concrete, the whole assembly will be less prone to sideways loads/tilting if the blocks are squarely placed under the trailer frame, close to the axle and at the corners.
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That's another point- what's the best way to prop the trailer up? In theory I should just need to sit it on its axles, but presumably it'll be more stable if propped at the corners... but will this induce sagging loads on the frame...?
 
aquaplane said:
I have used 4"x4" fence posts cut into 18" lengths to chock up the front end of my trailer.

There is a stack of building blocks under each of the rear corners of the trailer too.

The axle stands are still under the middle bit from when I took the wheels off to store them in the garage.

I wanted to get the wheels off to stop the tyres flat spotting and get them out of the sun but mainly so it would slow a tealeaf down if they wanted to nick the lot.
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My trailer has a rectangular bit that carries the boat, a subframe with the axle on it, and an A frame sticking out the front with the hitch and winch on. I have supported the 4 corners of the rectangular bit and the tip of the A frame so I could lift the jockey wheel. As it is now fairly evenly supported across 5 points rather than 3 points I'm not worrying about un-natural stresses on the trailer.

Suporting the back of the trailer, even if you leave weight on the wheels, is a good idea so you don't end up with the nose up in the air as you climb on the back of the boat, I've found ;)
 
sarabande said:
agreed about the concrete blocks that they are not a good idea for props. Blocks absorb rainwater; rainwater freezes and ice expands and the blocks become fragile especially if there is any uneven or localised loading, as under a beam or axle of a trailer.
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FWIW when I got my concrete blocks I soaked them in some damp proofing liquid which I would have otherwise thrown away. I have no idea if it did any good but the blocks have lasted for years and show no sign of breaking up.

I usually put a wooden block on them to spread the load and prevent localised loading.

Personally, I am more than happy using concrete blocks and have more confidence in them than axle stands which can suffer from rust or fatigue.
I haven't checked it, but I suspect that the load carrying ability of a concrete block is far higher than the two tonnes of most axle stands.
 
Rigger Mortice said:
I haven't checked it, but I suspect that the load carrying ability of a concrete block is far higher than the two tonnes of most axle stands.
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Only if the load, as in a building, is spread over the whole area of the block. The same load over a smaller area is quite likely to damage the block. Axle stands are designed to carry the whole load on a small area and spread it out.
 
Thistle said:
Only if the load, as in a building, is spread over the whole area of the block. The same load over a smaller area is quite likely to damage the block. Axle stands are designed to carry the whole load on a small area and spread it out.
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Yes, I realise that. Of course a point loading would be likely to cause problems. Hence wooden blocks.

Don't forget that most people would not think twice about using axle stands which, in turn, are placed on concrete hard standing. The point loading of the axle stands on the concrete is not usually a problem! :)

Without checking it out I would guess that concrete blocks, used sensibly, are more than adequate for this application.
 
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Whatever you use, take care before working under the boat.
Maybe we should have a winer photo comp for the shoddiest/most amusing boat supports?
 
A friend uses a battery (!) to support the back of his trailer for mounting and dismounting security.
OK as long as it's flat.......

sternpainted.jpg
 
Thistle said:
Beware! Concrete blocks can crumble and break quite suddenly especially if they are unevenly loaded (eg by a trailer chassis lying across them.) This is at least one of the good reasons why you see lots of timber blocks being used in boatyards.
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+ 1 blocks bricks etc can be dangerous there have been deaths under cars when they have been used for working under cars
 
Axle stands can be dangerous. There have been deaths when people have used axle stands to support cars.

We're not making much progress. :)

Maybe working under any heavy object is potentially dangerous and care needs to be taken?
 
Go to a car boot sale, you often find axle stands there or the plastic bottle crates pubs have are pretty strong topped with wood to spread the load.
 
Those crates can be lethal if they have been in the sun for long periods.
Outdoor Actvity instructors often use them for a crate-stacking exercise.

Crates that have gone brittle will sometimes just shatter with only a small load on them.
 
When I was young, a friend bought a large, heavy, pre war car. His half shaft broke. We jacked it up onto bricks and completed the repair. As we stood up, the bricks turned to dust and the car crashed down!
 
With regards to axle stands used to prop a twin axle trailer and get the axles off the ground, I'm going to contact SBS Trailers who made my trailer to get their opinion :confused:. Will post later with their reply.
 
Reply from SBS. Bear in mind that this is for my custom built trailer and may not be applicable for other twin axle trailers.

Rear - each side, 0.6 to 0.8m from end of chassis.

Front - midway point on 'A' frame.

Will give this a try at the weekend and see how the boat/trailer sits and the stability on four points. Axle stands to be used with wooden blocks of 3"x24"x1" between stands and chassis to spread load.
 
Deefor said:
Reply from SBS. Bear in mind that this is for my custom built trailer and may not be applicable for other twin axle trailers.

Rear - each side, 0.6 to 0.8m from end of chassis.

Front - midway point on 'A' frame.

Will give this a try at the weekend and see how the boat/trailer sits and the stability on four points. Axle stands to be used with wooden blocks of 3"x24"x1" between stands and chassis to spread load.
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That presumably puts the rear supports fairly close to the rear wheels so would take more than half of the weight.
Midway point on the A frame is presumably somewhat further from the wheels so will take less weight.

I am surprised they suggest taking much weight on the A frame but what is your trailer design like.
 
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