Avon Redcrest Floor

Fr J Hackett

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Thanks Refueler, I wanted to know the same dimensions for my Redcrest.

But I wonder if Avon's design, using those particular dimensions of individual boards, is part of the reason why some people don't like them?

On this subject quite recently, I'm sure somebody said they'd used longitudinal boards with a full-length H-shaped plastic connection on one board, into which the other fitted for rigidity in use. It's certainly possible that with probably 50 years+ of experience of these inflatables, users may prefer a non-standard system to the one Avon supplied.

I respect John Alison very much but I am as certain as I can be that a rigid load-spreading floor will hugely improve my enjoyment of the Redcrest, and the Redstart - I have both, too. Stepping onto that rubber floor (and having everything that might be loose in the boat, including drips, slide into the depression formed), is just awful - like walking on a bed.

On the subject of chafe damaging the boat, I don't believe it cannot be prevented - or greatly reduced - with some sort of very smooth rounding of the edge.


See post above #19
 

Refueler

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I've noted that some people do not fit them right .... there is a narrow strip of chafe material that is usually lightly glued to the tube and that should be ABOVE the boards when inserted ... if left UNDER - then the tube will be chafed.

My Avon is literally antique and the boards have not damaged her at all. She's on her 3rd outboard bracket ...

Only thing I have to sort - is the bow has lost its painter eye ... the black rubber piece pulled away from the Hypalon ..
 

VicS

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Just looking to make one up - I just want to double check the size of ply that will do the job. Was thinking of buying a piece 84cm wide, by 140cm long. 12mm thick?
Just wondering whether any redcrest owners could confirm that's about the right piece of wood (would then need to cut into two sections I guess to fit, plus holes made for toggles of thwart seat.
Also - anyone got an idiots guide to replacing the diaphram on the old A4 (black rubber) valve? What tools did you use etc and any tips?
Many thanks in expectation
+1 for Polymarine for the idiots guide for overhauling the valve

Here is a picture of a Redcrest with ply floor FWIW

Redcrest.jpg
 

dancrane

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See post above #19

I was thinking your description of sealing the edges was for the good of the boards rather than the tube-fabric they contact, but that does sound a good way to get a glassy-smooth curve with no sharp edges. (y)

I had it in mind to make a board for the area forward of the seat, too - it hadn't occurred to me that (judging by Vic's photo) the original set-up didn't include the bow. Considering I'll probably keep an anchor and possibly other awkward stuff there, I wouldn't want to overlook that.

My Redstart's lower engine-bracket 'loops' - the tough black rubber pieces that are almost out of sight beneath the rear end when the boat is afloat - are not present. I daresay eBay will provide replacements...is the Polymarine glue that comes with the puncture repair kit, sufficiently strong to secure these loops to the tube?
 
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Thanks Refueler, I wanted to know the same dimensions for my Redcrest.

But I wonder if Avon's design, using those particular dimensions of individual boards, is part of the reason why some people don't like them?

On this subject quite recently, I'm sure somebody said they'd used longitudinal boards with a full-length H-shaped plastic connection on one board, into which the other fitted for rigidity in use. It's certainly possible that with probably 50 years+ of experience of these inflatables, users may prefer a non-standard system to the one Avon supplied.

I respect John Alison very much but I am as certain as I can be that a rigid load-spreading floor will hugely improve my enjoyment of the Redcrest, and the Redstart - I have both, too. Stepping onto that rubber floor (and having everything that might be loose in the boat, including drips, slide into the depression formed), is just awful - like walking on a bed.

On the subject of chafe damaging the boat, I don't believe it cannot be prevented - or greatly reduced - with some sort of very smooth rounding of the edge.
"On the subject of chafe damaging the boat, I don't believe it cannot be prevented - or greatly reduced - with some sort of very smooth rounding of the edge".

I used a 1/2" quarter-round concave router bit to rout off the top edges of the boards so that they don't chafe the bottom of the tubes. The boards are large enough to be a good tight fit when inflated but obviously have to have a bit of slack to get them in and out when deflated/partly inflated. Couple of coats of Primocon then two of white Danboline. I've had no problems with chafe.
 

dartmoor

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I have put a new mushroom into an A4 valve. Your idea is correct - cut the old mushroom's stalk and let it fall into the tube. thread a piece of thin cord down through the central hole and back up around the outside using tweezers. Tie the cord to the new mushroom's stalk using a rolling hitch. Push the mushroom down through the valve - you need to be firm but careful, here. Finally, pull gently on the string and ease the new mushroom's stalk up through the hole until the barb pops through. A smear of washing up liquid can help. Undo the string and - job done!
Many thanks ! That's helpful. You didn't mention the spring and washer - presumably you pull the mushroom stalk through those too
 

dartmoor

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Without it - its one uncomfortable dinghy to try and stand up in !!

I just measured my remaining board out out of the set ....

9mm thick
240mm wide
865mm long

Each board is same.

The ply is of course Marine Ply with preservative soaked in and then lacquered.

My Dinghy has a full floor divided into two across the midships .... under the inflatable seat, with 2 holes in each for the seat tags.

Its 12mm ply - great floor - but makes the dinghy unmanageable ... I would not even try to lift it with the side ropes ...

Hi, a bit baffled by those dimensions - I make it about 840mm from seam to seam on the floor? and length to be about 1400mm if you don't bother covering the bow bit at the front?

9mm sounds better than 12mm?

Thanks
 

dartmoor

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I think I have my old floor boards from a Redcrest buried in the back of the garage.
If you are likely to be in Essex I can try to find it.
Sadly in Devon - but thanks anyway. (but would be interested in buying and paying carriage if you were willing to send them?)
 

Refueler

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The floor thickness is always over-thought I think. The main thing is to not stand on it out of water unless fully supported ... but once in the water - the water itself supports it and you can use thinner ply for full floor. Its when you do the slats that you need thicker because they do not support each other.
 

dartmoor

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The floor thickness is always over-thought I think. The main thing is to not stand on it out of water unless fully supported ... but once in the water - the water itself supports it and you can use thinner ply for full floor. Its when you do the slats that you need thicker because they do not support each other.
Thanks refueller - did you see my query on your dimensions? Were they for one board rather than the approx width and length for a piece of plywood to shape and make up for the floor? I was a bit confused!
 

Refueler

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Hi, a bit baffled by those dimensions - I make it about 840mm from seam to seam on the floor? and length to be about 1400mm if you don't bother covering the bow bit at the front?

9mm sounds better than 12mm?

Thanks

Just measured and photo'd both the slat and the full floor together ...... BOTH are 865mm 'wide' to go seam to seam .... think about it ... if the dimension was 1400mm .... that would put the total width of dinghy greater than spec !

2lIlBFU.jpg


Slat ...

FQAb3jm.jpg


as you see its 34" or 865mm

slat ..

9P9TlBR.jpg


240mm or 9 3/8th "

length of full rear floor

oN7fytb.jpg


1270mm or 50"

length of front floor

Dk3pJME.jpg


965mm or 38"

For general use with the 'mother yacht' - I am considering cutting some new slats as I still have the Hypalon slat folding material ... all but one slat cracked years ago ...
The full floor is as I said earlier far too heavy but if the dinghy is rigged / towed - its best.

Wife and I had 4 days in Yarmouth on IoW in storm weather and that dinghy was a lifesaver getting us from the pontoons to shore ... I have not seen a harbour like that so rough ..
It was so bad - that the 12mm mooring lines - one actually parted during the night sounding like a shotgun going off inside the cabin.
The 'lass' in the Pub kept the table and chairs next to the fire for us !!
 

dartmoor

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Just measured and photo'd both the slat and the full floor together ...... BOTH are 865mm 'wide' to go seam to seam .... think about it ... if the dimension was 1400mm .... that would put the total width of dinghy greater than spec !

2lIlBFU.jpg


Slat ...

FQAb3jm.jpg


as you see its 34" or 865mm

slat ..

9P9TlBR.jpg


240mm or 9 3/8th "

length of full rear floor

oN7fytb.jpg


1270mm or 50"

length of front floor

Dk3pJME.jpg


965mm or 38"

For general use with the 'mother yacht' - I am considering cutting some new slats as I still have the Hypalon slat folding material ... all but one slat cracked years ago ...
The full floor is as I said earlier far too heavy but if the dinghy is rigged / towed - its best.

Wife and I had 4 days in Yarmouth on IoW in storm weather and that dinghy was a lifesaver getting us from the pontoons to shore ... I have not seen a harbour like that so rough ..
It was so bad - that the 12mm mooring lines - one actually parted during the night sounding like a shotgun going off inside the cabin.
The 'lass' in the Pub kept the table and chairs next to the fire for us !!

Many thanks - that's great. My 840mm was your 865mm - I was allowing for some slack - but maybe I will go 865mm across as easier to trim down that size up! My 1400mm was to cover as much of the length of the dinghy as I might want boarded (i.e not to include bow section. Hope that make sense. Many thanks - really useful
 

Refueler

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Thanks refueller - did you see my query on your dimensions? Were they for one board rather than the approx width and length for a piece of plywood to shape and make up for the floor? I was a bit confused!

Yes and see my reply ....

Each slat is 865 x 240 x 9mm

The full floor is 2235mm long by 865mm max width.

I strongly advise to make it in two pieces as you see in my photos .... a single piece is just too awkward to handle. In two pieces as I have - you slide the rear section in .. get it settled ... then place front section on top and slide it forward easing the chafe material each side ...
Try it another way and you will be there for ages ...
 

andsarkit

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Many thanks ! That's helpful. You didn't mention the spring and washer - presumably you pull the mushroom stalk through those too
I don't recollect seeing any spring or washer on mine and it stayed inflated very well. I have sold it now but it was at least 50 years old and possibly predates the Redcrest although it was a similar size.
 

Refueler

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Many thanks ! That's helpful. You didn't mention the spring and washer - presumably you pull the mushroom stalk through those too

My Avon has had the later valves retro-fitted and only the seat has that old black diaphragm valve ... which has no spring or washer ... to deflate - you use the two prong U metal piece on the 'bung'.
The retrofitted valves have a spring and washer - to deflate press and turn ....

If I recall - the later ones - aren't they replaced by unscrewing the body of the valve ??
 

Captain Crisp

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This is what I made out of bog standard 7mm ply... Working a treat so far and I can still get the dinghy onto the car roof to get it down to the water...

IMG_20200416_195056_compress75.jpg
 

Captain Crisp

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Hi, I'm afraid I didn't write them down anywhere... Although, in fact, it may be more sensible to make yourself a bespoke set, given the age of Avons and the various designs...

I'm thinking I'm going to saw off most of the triangular end sections as they're not crucial and they mean you have to deflate to get the floor in and out. If I remember, I'll measure them when I go down tomorrow and post...

Cheers,
Crisp
 
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