Are all Dri-plugs the same?

[dylanwinter]

Katie L has a dri-plug to connect the outboard to the battery

are they all the same

should I remove the old one from the yamaha - which looks like a real professional job

and then put it on the new outboard or buy a new plug and socket set in the hope that the plug will fit the old socket

Dylan

 

[prv]

Well, they have different sizes and numbers of pins, but if you buy a matching one they should, er, match.

Pete

 

[VicS]

I originally had the traditional style.:

I changed them over to Driplugs, which I prefer.

Engine connection, Autohelm, socket for "steamer scarer" and mast wiring.

Never had a bad connection with a Driplug .


Put a smear of silicone grease round the O ring seal so that its easy to plug in and unplug.


If you use the traditional type be aware that one pin is probably connected to the metal body. Driplug connections are fully isolated.

 

[dylanwinter]

20 years old

Well, they have different sizes and numbers of pins, but if you buy a matching one they should, er, match.

Pete

I have a 20 year old two pin I beleive

something like this

http://www.whitstablemarine.co.uk/s...oglebase&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=cpc

 

[VicS]

I have a 20 year old two pin I beleive

something like this

http://www.whitstablemarine.co.uk/s...oglebase&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=cpc

All the decent chandlers stock them. You may find them packaged as plug and sockt together but obviously you can buy the plugs and sockets separately.

The one in your link is what I have on my engine, the Autohelm and the steamer scarer
I have the three pin version for my mast wiring

The entire range is on the Driplug website http://www.driplug.com/

 

[prv]

Put a smear of silicone grease round the O ring seal so that its easy to plug in and unplug.

Hmm, good idea. My tillerpilot uses a Driplug (fitted by the previous owner) and I've always thought it was a bad choice as it's a bugger to remove (fine for mast wires though). Perhaps it just needs greasing.

Pete

 

[dylanwinter]

dismantling a dri plug

I have had a lok at the one on the Yamaha

I have removed the threaded cap from the cable end

I have removed the three cross headed screws from inside

still no easy movement

any ideas what I am doing wrong

Dylan

PS - it does seem rather well built.... I like it

D

 

[Burnham Bob]

had the same problem - it's just stuck! i simply couldn't separate the plug to get at the wires. only the knowledge that it did come apart kept me going. the manufacturers sent me a set of instructions so i knew how it was supposed to come apart. eventually it did so persevere!

 

[alahol2]

Trying to remember mine...
Under the threaded cap there's a 'witches hat' cable clamp, then a rubber compression washer, then an open bottomed cylinder, then you can see the cable connector screws on the top of the pins. Can't remember the cross headed screws but you should now be able to push the plate, into which the pins are moulded, up into the plug to remove them from the outer, ie the pins go out the same way as the cable.
Does that make any kind of sense?

 

[Burnham Bob]

I have the pdf of how it comes apart which I've just tracked down on the PC. Can't work out how to attach it to a PM through the forum but if you PM me with a 'proper' email address I'll send it on

 

[dylanwinter]

email

pdf

that would be great

dylandotwinteratvirgindotnet

 

[VicS]

I have had a lok at the one on the Yamaha

I have removed the threaded cap from the cable end

I have removed the three cross headed screws from inside

still no easy movement

any ideas what I am doing wrong

Dylan

PS - it does seem rather well built.... I like it

D

This is not a Driplug !

With a Driplug once you unscrew the cap/gland the whole of the insides push up and out from beneath. Just as Alahol2 says.

(The two I have at home are slightly different inside though)


What type of plug is fitted to the Yammie? Photo?

.

 

[Burnham Bob]

dri plug pdf sent but from the correspondence above it might not be the same unit

 

[yachtorion]

IF it isn't a dri plug, then Dylan does it look like anything in this PDF?

http://www.bulgin.co.uk/PDFs/Cat83_sections/Buccaneer-2010_standard.pdf

If so you can get them all over the place, either from the likes of Force4 (http://www.force4.co.uk/Search/waterproof+plug+/Brand/Bulgin/) or cheaper from non-marine suppliers like RS.

Got them for my autopilot and plotter. Great connectors.

I've also got a driplug for the mast wiring. Very different beast.

James

 

[dylanwinter]

everything here

http://www.keepturningleft.co.uk/ktl-scuttlebutt/dri-plug/

in the end I emailed the company - British - with a snap of the plug and the sent me a plug - it arrived this morning - brilliant

bless you for sending me the pdf

blimey these things are made to tight engineering specs

very good indeed

D

 

[VicS]

Ah so it was three pin one!


Is that because the Yamaha has a three wire AC output for lighting only rather than a DC output for battery charging.

If it has and you want to use the Yamaha for battery charging you will need a special 6 diode rectifier!
( Like my outboard has)

 

[dylanwinter]

dunno

Ah so it was three pin one!


Is that because the Yamaha has a three wire AC output for lighting only rather than a DC output for battery charging.

If it has and you want to use the Yamaha for battery charging you will need a special 6 diode rectifier!
( Like my outboard has)

the answer is...dunno

the previous owner charged his battery from the Yamaha

so I assume it is wired correctly - it seems to run straight to the battery terminals

so I plan to try to wire up the Tohatsu the same way

Dylan

 

[VicS]

the answer is...dunno

the previous owner charged his battery from the Yamaha

so I assume it is wired correctly - it seems to run straight to the battery terminals

so I plan to try to wire up the Tohatsu the same way

Dylan

Fair enough... I guess the previous owner just used a three pin plug 'cos he had one, could not get a two pin one or thought the two pins ones were reversible ... or some other reason we will never know.


BUT don't ASSUME its wired correctly ... check.
You dont want to f..k up the charging circuit on your new engine before you've even used it>

Dont get the positive and negative reversed or your rectifier will fry in an instant. A fuse at the battery end would be wise.

 

[VicS]

Looking again at your picture I see that water must have got in and electrolysis has removed the plating and caused some corrosion of one of the pins.

The same has probably occured in the socket ... a new socket might be wise or at least re-wire it so that the corroded pin is not used.