Anyone used Boracol as a teak treatment?
- Thread starter Twister_Ken
- Start date
Daedelus
Well-Known Member
Yes, me!
It's great stuff (well actually it's horrible, but it keeps the green mould off).
You wait for a few fine days (I know, fallen at the first hurdle) then wash the teak with fairy liquid or whatever, water and a sponge to get the dirt off, then rinse with ordinary water and then let it dry. Probably the rest of the day.
Next day, early if the teak is dry, use a large paint brush to "paint " (it's the same consistency as water) the boracol on the teak. They recommend rubber gloves and a simple mask, just to stop ingesting the odd splash. Then go away for a beer and lunch until boracol has really dried off. Then a second coat.
Pray it doesn't rain for a day (two is better) then look at the filthy teak decks of those who haven't done this and are getting mould growing all over the place and feel smug. If you haven't got all the green mould off with your cleaning efforts give it a few weeks and it will almost magically come clean as the boracol slaughters the mould.
Lasts about a season although a treatment in spring and another in autumn really is the peak of perfection. Means you don't try and do it in the freezing cold of midwinter when nothing seems to want to dry and the wretched starlings are emptying their bowels over everything.
PM also sent.
It's great stuff (well actually it's horrible, but it keeps the green mould off).
You wait for a few fine days (I know, fallen at the first hurdle) then wash the teak with fairy liquid or whatever, water and a sponge to get the dirt off, then rinse with ordinary water and then let it dry. Probably the rest of the day.
Next day, early if the teak is dry, use a large paint brush to "paint " (it's the same consistency as water) the boracol on the teak. They recommend rubber gloves and a simple mask, just to stop ingesting the odd splash. Then go away for a beer and lunch until boracol has really dried off. Then a second coat.
Pray it doesn't rain for a day (two is better) then look at the filthy teak decks of those who haven't done this and are getting mould growing all over the place and feel smug. If you haven't got all the green mould off with your cleaning efforts give it a few weeks and it will almost magically come clean as the boracol slaughters the mould.
Lasts about a season although a treatment in spring and another in autumn really is the peak of perfection. Means you don't try and do it in the freezing cold of midwinter when nothing seems to want to dry and the wretched starlings are emptying their bowels over everything.
PM also sent.
pvb
Well-Known Member
Brilliant solution to caring for teak decks. I do mine 2 or 3 times a year. I also use it on the sprayhood - keeps the green at bay over the winter.
John_Clarke
Well-Known Member
Boracol appears to cost about £12 per litre. Polycell 3 in 1 Mould Killer costs less than £6 per litre from B&Q. I believe it has the same active ingredients as Boracol. Great stuff. I do not even wash the teak first and it keeps its grey colour without the green algae or black mould specks. Twice a year does the job. A wide synthetic bristle paint brush is the best. You do not even have to saturate the wood or put on 2 coats; a light coat that justs wets the surface is all that is required. Extra coats on the end grain seem to be necessary. I pick a day on which it will not rain so the Mould Killer has time to soak in.
Vanilla
Well-Known Member
HR recommend Boracol. Here's a bit from the HR Manual on looking after teak decks:
The teak deck
The teak deck is a part of your boats character. After a few weeks the teak will turn greyish, and a smooth silvery grey deck is probably what most people like to see. The reality is often something quite different.
You have probably already seen dark, dirty, sometimes mildewy teak decks. Mildew is something that is more frequent today than some decades ago. You will find it not only on teak decks. It can be found on concrete, piers, painted surfaces and so on. The presence might differ very locally, some areas suffer a lot from mildew, and others are not hit at all. In the long run the best way to treat the teak deck against mildew is to use Boracol.
Boracol is a liquid that is uncoloured and thin like water. It is sold in normal chemist shops and hardware dealers. It is marketed as a treatment against mildew for garden furniture.
Use a normal paintbrush and paint the deck with Boracol. Never use a normal brush on the teak! Do the work on a dry day.
If it rains too much Boracol will be washed away. It does not matter if it is drizzling the next day but if it rains the complete day or over splashing waves washes over the deck, the Boracol will make no effect. That would flush the Boracol way too early. If it does not rain, spray the deck a little with water. This little amount of water only helps the Boracol to penetrate into the teak.
After three to seven days you wash the deck with a sponge and cleaner, for example green soap. Please do not be afraid if you do not see any positive result immediately. On the contrary, the deck looks worse than it did before the treatment. After about ten days things will start to happen. The mildew has disappeared and the deck is clean. The mildew will not recur for some time.
Do not be afraid to repeat the treatment now and then.
The teak deck
The teak deck is a part of your boats character. After a few weeks the teak will turn greyish, and a smooth silvery grey deck is probably what most people like to see. The reality is often something quite different.
You have probably already seen dark, dirty, sometimes mildewy teak decks. Mildew is something that is more frequent today than some decades ago. You will find it not only on teak decks. It can be found on concrete, piers, painted surfaces and so on. The presence might differ very locally, some areas suffer a lot from mildew, and others are not hit at all. In the long run the best way to treat the teak deck against mildew is to use Boracol.
Boracol is a liquid that is uncoloured and thin like water. It is sold in normal chemist shops and hardware dealers. It is marketed as a treatment against mildew for garden furniture.
Use a normal paintbrush and paint the deck with Boracol. Never use a normal brush on the teak! Do the work on a dry day.
If it rains too much Boracol will be washed away. It does not matter if it is drizzling the next day but if it rains the complete day or over splashing waves washes over the deck, the Boracol will make no effect. That would flush the Boracol way too early. If it does not rain, spray the deck a little with water. This little amount of water only helps the Boracol to penetrate into the teak.
After three to seven days you wash the deck with a sponge and cleaner, for example green soap. Please do not be afraid if you do not see any positive result immediately. On the contrary, the deck looks worse than it did before the treatment. After about ten days things will start to happen. The mildew has disappeared and the deck is clean. The mildew will not recur for some time.
Do not be afraid to repeat the treatment now and then.
pvb
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
Boracol appears to cost about £12 per litre. Polycell 3 in 1 Mould Killer costs less than £6 per litre from B&Q.
[/ QUOTE ]Polycell 3-in-1 Mould Killer does indeed have the same ingredients, and I've recommended it here many times, as it's easier to get hold of than Boracol, and is what I used for some years. However, it's much less concentrated, so in fact costs more per effective ingredient. Now that Boracol is becoming more available, it's the cheaper product to use, ideally diluted about 1 part Boracol to 3 parts water..
Boracol appears to cost about £12 per litre. Polycell 3 in 1 Mould Killer costs less than £6 per litre from B&Q.
[/ QUOTE ]Polycell 3-in-1 Mould Killer does indeed have the same ingredients, and I've recommended it here many times, as it's easier to get hold of than Boracol, and is what I used for some years. However, it's much less concentrated, so in fact costs more per effective ingredient. Now that Boracol is becoming more available, it's the cheaper product to use, ideally diluted about 1 part Boracol to 3 parts water..
John_Clarke
Well-Known Member
Thanks for that useful information. I will try and buy some Boracol when I run out of mould killer.
LeonF
Well-Known Member
I've used Dettol Mould and Mildew remover to great effect as well. Around £2 a bottle from most supermarkets.
pvb
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
I've used Dettol Mould and Mildew remover to great effect as well. Around £2 a bottle from most supermarkets.
[/ QUOTE ]Sadly, you're wasting your money. It's just watered-down bleach in a fancy bottle.
I've used Dettol Mould and Mildew remover to great effect as well. Around £2 a bottle from most supermarkets.
[/ QUOTE ]Sadly, you're wasting your money. It's just watered-down bleach in a fancy bottle.
LeonF
Well-Known Member
Touche...you're right, but it does seem to do the trick. I've not found the Polycell to be so immediately effective.
01286p
New Member
Anyone used Boracol as a treatment for "Treadmaster" Decks to combat green Mould and Yellow/ gray Lichen that it seems to attract .
Thistle411
New Member
Where to buy Boracol or Polycell
Can anyone tell me where to find Boracol or Polycell in central London. We are at St. Kat's. Not the best place to find pracatical stuff.
Thnx,
Thistle
Can anyone tell me where to find Boracol or Polycell in central London. We are at St. Kat's. Not the best place to find pracatical stuff.
Thnx,
Thistle
Twister_Ken
Well-Known Member
I Internet ordered it. Plenty of suppliers if you Google.
(worked well, BTW)
(worked well, BTW)
lwatson
New Member
Bleach
Be careful with the bleach on teak decks as it will eat the caulking up pretty fast. Personally I would give it a miss.
Be careful with the bleach on teak decks as it will eat the caulking up pretty fast. Personally I would give it a miss.
Seajet
...
Has anyone found an answer to keeping teak cockpit seats looking good ?
I've had mine for over 30 years, tried all the usual stuff like Deks Olye, (just part 1, and 1 & 2) and it's lucky to last a season.
I am well aware that 'varnished' seats as in D1 & D2 are slippery, but oddly enough it hasn't been a problem -yet-, and the honey coloured teak, also around the companionway, looks great setting off the boat.
It's getting to the point the seat slats are noticably thinner after years of scraping, so I suppose I'll have to accept the grey finish and console myself it's a more non-slip surface ?
I've had mine for over 30 years, tried all the usual stuff like Deks Olye, (just part 1, and 1 & 2) and it's lucky to last a season.
I am well aware that 'varnished' seats as in D1 & D2 are slippery, but oddly enough it hasn't been a problem -yet-, and the honey coloured teak, also around the companionway, looks great setting off the boat.
It's getting to the point the seat slats are noticably thinner after years of scraping, so I suppose I'll have to accept the grey finish and console myself it's a more non-slip surface ?
matt1
Well-Known Member
Agree - I wouldnt use any chemicals on teak other than VERY occasionally.
My decks were supplied by KJ Howells who said they would love to supply me with chemical cleaners because I would soon be back to order new decking after it all goes soft in a few years. They recommend washing with warm washing powder solution and then treating with Endeavour oil. Unfortunately the endeavour oil building caught fire last year so you can no longer get it! Not sure what product they recommend since I still have about a litre of endeavour oil left which will last me about 10 years
Stork_III
Well-Known Member
I use "Patio Magic" £12/5litres free delivery from Amazon, dilute 4:1 for bad mould, 9:1 if mild mould. Brush on dry decks, 2 coats, let dry, a fewdays later mould gone deck is grey when dry and pale brown when wet. Works on sprayhood/canvas as well.
