Anyone tried building a frankenbebi anchor light?

My mistake.....

Quote " It actually uses one of the LEDs for current sensing" sorry not as I see it. The LED is also used as a voltage reference for the comparator. ...

As I first posted, the EE on this design is the realm of our head electronics design boffin. The error in voltage reference vs current sensing is mine alone. God's truth, I am not really sure how it works, but that's why we have Paul onboard. I am always doing good if I don't let the magic smoke out....

A few changes made in resistances shown on posted schematic, but the circuit is performing as expected and required. Average draw at night with LEDs illuminated less than 100ma Draw at idle (full sunlight) 0.72mA. Paul is also running some enviromental tests to test total current against ambient temperature. Preliminary results as follows.

Temp Deg C, Total current drain mA:
-16 (+3.2 deg F) 102
+13 (+55 deg F) 91
+47 (+116 deg F) 82

We will be posting a full circuit description (written by the head boffin) and testing notes on the website once Paul is satisfied with his results.

My current focus is on a new case/mounting design which will eliminate the current PVC cap as a case, and allow multiple mounting options. Still in the prototype stages, but promising. More info once we are confident it is actually an improvement in design.

All of these recent changes have pushed back our hoped for release dates somewhat, but if the new designs pass testing, the delay will be worth the improvments in performance and reliability.

As to Eagle, it's not the most intuitive interface, and the auto-routing for board design is not the greatest. But as it's widely used in the US maker community and its cam generated gerber files work for most fab houses, it's the one we chose to learn. As the head "wrench" board design and fabrication was relegated to me once the circuit design has been completed.

Tks again for your interest and discussion.

Cap' Couillon
 
Just got a bag of cree leds from Mouser . com..

http://uk.mouser.com/Search/Product...tualkey57280000virtualkey941-C503DWANCBBDB152

Crikey those things are bright! 20mA and painful to look at.

From
So how do you measure the forward voltage?
Just put 3 in parallel and the voltage across each set of legs was within a percent or so - close enough not to worry about mismatch?

DSC_0093_zpsce21044f.jpg~320x480
 
Just got a bag of cree leds from Mouser . com..
http://uk.mouser.com/Search/Product...tualkey57280000virtualkey941-C503DWANCBBDB152
Crikey those things are bright! 20mA and painful to look at.
Yeah, you'll put your eye out. Spec sheet warns not to stare at them. Output is visible at 4+ mile according to USCG specs
Just put 3 in parallel and the voltage across each set of legs was within a percent or so - close enough not to worry about mismatch?
In all of our design iterations we are only driving the LEDs at about 60% of design max (20ma vs 30ma) so a couple percent difference in the legs is negligable.

Wear your sunglasses :)
 
New FrankenBebi Project News

New News at the FrankenBebi Project.

Quick recap....
New project team members
New circuit design with better performance and reliablilty.
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Effects of new designs on release dates.

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Cap' Couillon
The FrankenBebi Project
 
Checking through the stats on the website this morning and picked up the link back to this thread. Lot's of conversations in just a week....

As the project manager for The FrankenBebi Project I am glad to see the interest and debate going on here at YBW. We have joined the forum and subscribed to this thread to try and keep up. While there is no way I can address all the issues and suggestions in 7 pages of posts, I would like to clarify, update, explain a couple of issues I noticed while reading through the posts...

The ugly schematics are entirely my fault. My personal background is in the nuts&bolts side of engineering, not the EE side. Early on in the project I needed to teach myself Eagle Cad to allow efficient design of the printed circuit boards which are (in our opinion) much preferable to other methods of assembly. Since that time, we have added some new members to the electronics design team who draw much prettier Eagle schematic files than I. You can see an example below.

From the begining, one of the goals of the project was to come up with a design that could be assembled with readily available parts, with reliable sourcing and reasonable costs. The finished product must be "bullet-proof" for at least 5 years in adverse conditions with zero maintenance.

Given that everone has their own opinion as to "what's best", not only in the forums, but within the project as well, there is as always in life a little bit of compromise. It is always a battle to decide how good is good enough, and what goals to give up in order to accomplish others.
The posted designs have been our best effort based around a linear regulator and its associated issues with power dissapation at elevated voltages, non-regulation below drop-out voltages etc. It may not be elegant, but it works, and it's tough... Sorta like my boat.

This has not kept us from looking for improvements, and delaying release of final plans, drawings and bill of materials, until we are sure we have the best solution we can. Our reinforced circuit design team has come up with a totally new (and elegant) regulation and photo-switch design that solves a lot of nagging issues with the older design. Don't get me wrong, the ugly 0.11.03 design functions as advertised, on within 15 minutes of dusk, off within 15 minutes of dawn, rain or shine. On deck, in the weather with battery voltages from 11.8-16 Vdc.

Here is a (prettier) schematic of the latest design iteration. Y'all at YBW are the first to see it, as it hasn't even been posted to the website yet. Something more to discuss. :) It actually uses one of the LEDs for current sensing and improves regulation while reducing dissapated heat and overall current demands. (less than 100mA) It will require some fine tuning of resistance values as it undergoes testing, but at this point it looks really good. Some new developements in assembly and finish as well which we will announce as soon as we have tested enough to prove they are a positive step, and not change for the sake of change.

View attachment 38501

Thanks again for the interest in the project.
Cap-Couillon
What keeps the spare comparator stable?
It would be better to tie the outputs apart.
The output of a comparator with equal voltages on its inputs is undefined, which is never good.
Exactly what happens can be layout dependent, and may include oscillation.

It might be better to either find a single comparator, or indeed replace it with a transistor.
In the dark state, the output of the comparator is high, so the current through q2 is set only by its beta, and/or the saturation of the comparator. Not good.

You'd be better to split the circuit into two distinct parts, a photo switch and a current source switched by it.
 
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Fair Winds.
 
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Circuit Description

Did you understand the point about the unused comparator?
Honestly, no.... My roll in the project is in the area of mechanical design, not EE. Our head circuit boffin has however just posted an in-depth discussion of the latest circuit design, along with some test results, design decisions, and a general description of operation.

You can read online Here or download download as a PDF (150KB).

Hope this answers any questions...

Regards,
David
 
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