LadyInBed
Well-known member
All is not lost, you will know for the next time ?Yes, something like that might well have helped in the early stages.
All is not lost, you will know for the next time ?Yes, something like that might well have helped in the early stages.
Best way to put the bearings on is to gently heat them to just above 110oC, they should then drop straight on. A hot air paint stripper will easily get them warm enough. Only use flame heat if you know what you are doing. We use an induction heater at my factory, which to allow for cooling once the piece is removed from the heater we set to 130oC. This means the bearing is still just above 110oC when it is placed onto the shaft.Thanks pvb.
Damaging the shaft wouldn't matter: I've got a new one, ready to fit, in the service kit.
The spacer is the only bit I plan to re-use.
I've got a washer that just fits over the shaft, and, tomorrow, I'll try using that to pull the first bearing off the shaft.
My real worry is using the puller to fit the new bearings onto the new shaft: the puller and shaft just don't 'want' to stay centred and in-line with each other.
I may play safe and ask a local engineer to fit them with a hydraulic press.
Best way to put the bearings on is to gently heat them to just above 110oC, they should then drop straight on. A hot air paint stripper will easily get them warm enough. Only use flame heat if you know what you are doing. We use an induction heater at my factory, which to allow for cooling once the piece is removed from the heater we set to 130oC. This means the bearing is still just above 110oC when it is placed onto the shaft.
Am I missing something here? You need a new shaft, two new bearings and are faffing about trying to retrieve the spacer?. Why not just get a new spacer as well?
Just watched the video, and it appears that there are two spacers. One is plastic separating the o rings , and one metal separating the two bearings. It looks as though it could go wrong and the cost of new pumps looks horrendous. Good luck! Perhaps a trip to an engineering workshop may be cheaper in the long run.Yes, a new spacer would be simple, but:
1) The kits I've seen online don't seem to have new spacers (yes, that seems odd to me, too).
2) The rebuild kit I bought, certainly does not include a spacer
3) The several videos I've watched all emphasise the need to keep the spacer.
Just watched the video, and it appears that there are two spacers. One is plastic separating the o rings , and one metal separating the two bearings. It looks as though it could go wrong and the cost of new pumps looks horrendous. Good luck! Perhaps a trip to an engineering workshop may be cheaper in the long run.
I have an infinite capacity to try and mend things until they are completely beggared. Confidence exceeds ability in my case?
Are you sure about these temp levels? Are they for ordinary bearings? I've always understood that 100°is about the limit for normal bearings and less if fitted with seals or shields! Just looked at the SKF web site and they reckon that 125° may change the fabric condition of the bearing!Best way to put the bearings on is to gently heat them to just above 110oC, they should then drop straight on. A hot air paint stripper will easily get them warm enough. Only use flame heat if you know what you are doing. We use an induction heater at my factory, which to allow for cooling once the piece is removed from the heater we set to 130oC. This means the bearing is still just above 110oC when it is placed onto the shaft.
It seems to have become a very difficult issue. How can removing buggered bearings be so hard?I wouldn't try putting the new bearings on with the puller. If you pull on the outer bit you will likely damage the bearing.
They usually just slide onI wouldn't try putting the new bearings on with the puller. If you pull on the outer bit you will likely damage the bearing.
He probably means "slide on" after you've done the heating/freezing bit discussed earlier, when it almost certainly will.Not if it is an interference fit which is likely on the rotating part. The non rotating part is usually a transition fit as, in theory, only the friction torque in the bearing is trying to rotate it. Mind you, it is quite a while since I did any design of stuff with bearings so I might be miss recalling!
Been doing this with the induction heater for many many years - as an example of this practice the entire Virgin Pendolino train fleet AC compresors were overhauled by my firm in 2012 - nil failures. My understanding is no degradation occurs below 150oC and most of these bearings will tolerate 120oC continuous running temperature. Most of our bearings wil have an ID between 35 - 75mm. If we heat to 110oC by the time the bearing has been taken off the heater armature, then slid over the end of the shaft and perhaps touched the cold shaft on its way down to its intended position they can stick before fully home. Taking them to 130oC avoids this problem.Are you sure about these temp levels? Are they for ordinary bearings? I've always understood that 100°is about the limit for normal bearings and less if fitted with seals or shields! Just looked at the SKF web site and they reckon that 125° may change the fabric condition of the bearing!