Any tips, please, on using a cheap 3 legged puller?

NealB said:
Thanks pvb.

Damaging the shaft wouldn't matter: I've got a new one, ready to fit, in the service kit.

The spacer is the only bit I plan to re-use.

I've got a washer that just fits over the shaft, and, tomorrow, I'll try using that to pull the first bearing off the shaft.

My real worry is using the puller to fit the new bearings onto the new shaft: the puller and shaft just don't 'want' to stay centred and in-line with each other.

I may play safe and ask a local engineer to fit them with a hydraulic press.
Click to expand...
Best way to put the bearings on is to gently heat them to just above 110oC, they should then drop straight on. A hot air paint stripper will easily get them warm enough. Only use flame heat if you know what you are doing. We use an induction heater at my factory, which to allow for cooling once the piece is removed from the heater we set to 130oC. This means the bearing is still just above 110oC when it is placed onto the shaft.
 
superheat6k said:
Best way to put the bearings on is to gently heat them to just above 110oC, they should then drop straight on. A hot air paint stripper will easily get them warm enough. Only use flame heat if you know what you are doing. We use an induction heater at my factory, which to allow for cooling once the piece is removed from the heater we set to 130oC. This means the bearing is still just above 110oC when it is placed onto the shaft.
Click to expand...

Thanks for adding a bit of commercial inside information to posts 16 and 19.
 
If you are prepared to destroy the shaft just remember that the puller has aleady moved the bearings some distance along it, therefore they will move back again. With that in mind cut the shaft close behind the bearings and remove any burrs left by the cut. Get a piece of steel drilled through clearance diameter for the shaft, place it on a solid surface and use a steel punch and hammer to drive the shaft out of the bearings, driving them back the way they came.
 
WoodyP said:
Am I missing something here? You need a new shaft, two new bearings and are faffing about trying to retrieve the spacer?. Why not just get a new spacer as well?
Click to expand...

Yes, a new spacer would be simple, but:

1) The kits I've seen online don't seem to have new spacers (yes, that seems odd to me, too).

2) The rebuild kit I bought, certainly does not include a spacer

3) The several videos I've watched all emphasise the need to keep the spacer.
 
NealB said:
Yes, a new spacer would be simple, but:

1) The kits I've seen online don't seem to have new spacers (yes, that seems odd to me, too).

2) The rebuild kit I bought, certainly does not include a spacer

3) The several videos I've watched all emphasise the need to keep the spacer.
Click to expand...
Just watched the video, and it appears that there are two spacers. One is plastic separating the o rings , and one metal separating the two bearings. It looks as though it could go wrong and the cost of new pumps looks horrendous. Good luck! Perhaps a trip to an engineering workshop may be cheaper in the long run.
 
WoodyP said:
Just watched the video, and it appears that there are two spacers. One is plastic separating the o rings , and one metal separating the two bearings. It looks as though it could go wrong and the cost of new pumps looks horrendous. Good luck! Perhaps a trip to an engineering workshop may be cheaper in the long run.
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The plastic one comes out very easily, and is safely stowed in the garage (phew!!).

Still struggling with the steel one, and that trip to a friendly local workshop is imminent.

The new VP pump is over £400, though there's a suspiciously similar (identical?) one available for just over £200.

Having said all that, it would be good for my self-esteem if I could do it all myself (it's the first 'engineering' I've done since my late teens, fiddling around with Minis, Heralds and Anglias!).
 
WoodyP said:
I have an infinite capacity to try and mend things until they are completely beggared. Confidence exceeds ability in my case?
Click to expand...

Yes ..... that's something I'm VERY familiar with (particularly these last few days).

Actually, I'd say it's more 'hope' than 'confidence' (or, maybe, even 'wishful thinking') in my case!
 
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superheat6k said:
Best way to put the bearings on is to gently heat them to just above 110oC, they should then drop straight on. A hot air paint stripper will easily get them warm enough. Only use flame heat if you know what you are doing. We use an induction heater at my factory, which to allow for cooling once the piece is removed from the heater we set to 130oC. This means the bearing is still just above 110oC when it is placed onto the shaft.
Click to expand...
Are you sure about these temp levels? Are they for ordinary bearings? I've always understood that 100°is about the limit for normal bearings and less if fitted with seals or shields! Just looked at the SKF web site and they reckon that 125° may change the fabric condition of the bearing!
 
Not if it is an interference fit which is likely on the rotating part. The non rotating part is usually a transition fit as, in theory, only the friction torque in the bearing is trying to rotate it. Mind you, it is quite a while since I did any design of stuff with bearings so I might be miss recalling!
 
gordmac said:
Not if it is an interference fit which is likely on the rotating part. The non rotating part is usually a transition fit as, in theory, only the friction torque in the bearing is trying to rotate it. Mind you, it is quite a while since I did any design of stuff with bearings so I might be miss recalling!
Click to expand...
He probably means "slide on" after you've done the heating/freezing bit discussed earlier, when it almost certainly will.

Richard
 
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ean_p said:
Are you sure about these temp levels? Are they for ordinary bearings? I've always understood that 100°is about the limit for normal bearings and less if fitted with seals or shields! Just looked at the SKF web site and they reckon that 125° may change the fabric condition of the bearing!
Click to expand...
Been doing this with the induction heater for many many years - as an example of this practice the entire Virgin Pendolino train fleet AC compresors were overhauled by my firm in 2012 - nil failures. My understanding is no degradation occurs below 150oC and most of these bearings will tolerate 120oC continuous running temperature. Most of our bearings wil have an ID between 35 - 75mm. If we heat to 110oC by the time the bearing has been taken off the heater armature, then slid over the end of the shaft and perhaps touched the cold shaft on its way down to its intended position they can stick before fully home. Taking them to 130oC avoids this problem.

Those who heat bearings with a torch really have no idea what temperature they will be gettingn plus the temperature wil be very uneven.

An old electric chip frier is an excellent bearing heater, but might make the chips taste funny.
 
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