Antigua report

tcm

...
Joined
11 Jan 2002
Messages
23,958
Location
Caribbean at the moment
Visit site
Thort i had better write up this seeing as how many kindly gave advice beforehand.

We only went for a week. The idea was a quick sunshine christmas flit, with no connecting flights. Antigua is good for this - direct flights from Virgin, BA and BMI cos ta grand over Xmas, or the godawful cramped air2000 (sunsail) via st thomas is £600. I splashed out on Virgin at christmas eve, booked quite late, trtied to upgrader but no space. Got on the plane to find i'm the first one on board dammit, now how long to wait? But almost nobody turned up, and the flight took off with an empty-looking economy. After takoff we discovered the back of the plane empty except for eight people and the flight attendants toldus there were more people in first and premium than the whole of economy. I had eight seats to myself - one row to lie down on and the other row to adjust so i could see a couple of tellys nicely whilst lying down.

Like a nitwit i booked sunsail, for i think the very last time. As at Dec 2004 its still in nelson's harbor, which is great to visit, rubbish as a base - no showers and not many proper shops -tho lots if you want a t-shirt.

Now, the most active and energetic aspect of Antigua is their use of adjectives in the travel brochures. So, they're a bunch of lazy git - er oops, i mean, it's a place where there's time to relax and chill out. Especially for anyone supposed to provide a service like the nitwit cabdrivers at the airport who actually get given a chit saying "take these people to nelson's harbour you dozy nerk" at which they say hurrah i have now got the next job lined up so i can go to the bar, chat with mates, or perhaps see if anyone else wants to go the same way for double time. I told the chap we'd pay taxi rates OR bus rates, but not taxi rates in a bus.

Four of us had a 45.2 is nice and comfy. The diesel was on reserve, the gps didn't work and neither the speed/log so ahem nav a bit limited to taking bearings.

We landed Xmas eve -not recommended for provisioning. Xmas there's a "party" in Nelsons harbour although in truth, a load of people turn up and the band plays a massive racket, whilst lots of people wander around saying jeez what a racket.

Nice natural harbour here. The Artillery restaurant is recommended, or least, it was until i went. God, it's rubbish. Not only do i not know a restaurant in the UK this bad, i don't even know anyone who cooks this badly. They must checkem out to find who is the most uselss cook, and hire them on the spot. If you found some prawns at the back of your fridge and couldn't remember when you boughht them, or a handful of pencil erasers, they'd be much nicer as a starter. But, with the exchange rate, not too hopelessly expensive - about £70 quid for four with wine. Nice view, nice surroundings. Rubbish food, though.

Xmas day passed in a bit of a blur, and we anchored out in the harbour entrance, and food eaten probably included a cheeseburger, which leads to my main antiguan restaurant tip: "If the restaurant actually offers cheeseburgers, then that's probably going to be the best thing, really". I broke this rule on a few occasions during the week, but didn't disprove it

Snowleopardishly, i wimped out of Nonsuch on the east side cos it was quite windy, and that's where the wind comes from, and went to Jolly harbour on the west coast. Which is quite good, lovely beach a 600yds from the marina, but the marina is fine. Or, you can sit on a buoy and nobody asks for any money, ever. I got about $100 of diesel into the tank. Its a bit hopeless to rent the boat out like that, innit, Mr sunsail? But they refunded at the end , so not to worry. Next time, i mite use Horizon, who are based in Jolly harbour.

A rather top thing in Jolly harbour is the bar, which has a free swiming pool. So, we stayed there a night.

Keeping a boat in antigua mite seem a great idea, but they have a siginificant barnacle problem: those powerboats who can afford it liftout or buy a large lift for there boat to keepit clear of the water. In fairly stiff breeze, i put up all the sail, but could couldn't get it to go v quick - a look underneath showed a thick carpet of growth.

Next day. off to Dickeson Bay, millionaires land doncha know, houses on the hill, Sandals resort in the bay. Jeez what a mess. The beach is 10 yards deep and jumping with ankle-biting insects. Sandals enforces a strict diet of top-volume steel drum bands. Coconut grove looked so-so ish and we didn't stay. Anchoring in anything but an easterly is a bit swelly, but not too bad.

Worst of all in Dickenson bay is the unrestricted PWC activity. Blimey. I thort i was fairly laissez faire in this regard, but a compelte fascist nothing compared with them. It is total nutterland all day long. 10 of them screaming about in quite small bay, i kept thinking that the next one out obviously must be a member of staff who was out to haul them back in, but no, nobody said a thing. erk. I think praps they are free from Sandals, and provided that one is always available then the PWC fixers can do as they please yeehah. DO NOT go to Sandals in Antigua unless you fancy swimming next to the M25.

After that, I decided to follow Tome's advice and go and see the amazing church in Parham, which is quite slog and erm not really "amazing". I mean, it'd be amazing if i'd built it, or the kids had built it, but otherwise, it's a wooden church with a few busted windows. We goosewinged back to Jollly harbour at ten knots yeehah, and stayed there, where swmbo encouraged me to take the boat apart by losing an earring. But then it might have been in the swimming pool, so we scoured that as well. Then i offered a $100 reward and the local kids went diving all afternoon. No earring, so i'm afraid everyone house insurance will go up next year, all down to swmbo, sorry bout that...

Axctualy, Jolly hartbour is pretty good spot if you like winter sunshine. Cheap rentals and a fairly decent supermarket has just opened there with (gasp) fresh meat, not just the frozen chicken paste or Jello. I met a chap who had just bought two flats, and the going rate is about £70k £100k depending on whether its on the waterfront or not. Golfcourse nearby, i hear, PLUS most importantly, table football and premier league cable tv in the sports bar.

Oh yes, more restarant tested include The Beach which is vair trendy, and OJ's in Crab bay, also "recommended". OJ's managed to turn two half lobsters into a fairly hard-compound radial tyre, whilst son#2 smugly scoffed a cheeseburger. The Cheeseburger Hypothesis holds true. Peace and calm-wise, the Lat lemming at Falmouth harbour is very pleasant, nice boat views, and some more rubbish food, albeit slightly less rubbish than most other places.

Deep bay is also a nice anchorage, pretty in the sunshine. The wreck of the andes is an okish snorkel, but really, it's just sunken old boat - no sharks ripping up and down corridors, nothing. The shoreside beach restaurant is also called "Andes", good view from here. They invite you to wear shoes, and cover up, ladies consider wearing a gown. Of course, I had the cheeseburger option, to stay safe. "Local catch" was deepfried marlin.

With no GPS I unfortunately failed to find para's offshore underwater lobster paradise, and wimped out of a trip to Barbuda. I think praps it's a bad idea to go for just a week to antigua, from london anyway, cos it's so slow it's a flippin windup. I did manage to stop smoking tho.
 

wishbone

New member
Joined
20 Jan 2002
Messages
556
Location
South Yorkshire
www.reflect-designs.co.uk
Know what you mean about the food…….Did the BVI’s some years back during our two week stint we had a group meal I think in little harbour, I have coeliac disease so can’t have anything with wheat flour…..No problem they said every one sat at long tables getting the meal of spicy fried chicken and rice…mine arrived and I just had to check……Oh! They said it hasn’t go any in…..being a disbelieving bugger I ask to see the spicy sauce…..Yep main ingredients wheat flour so I send the chicken back……waited and waited by this time most people are finishing their meal…so I go’s to the kitchen shack yep! shack they’ve run out of chicken and cooking pots….the big fat mama boils up some water in the teapot and starts to wash me returned spicy chicken…by this time I was eating the table leg I was so hungry!! Well the chicken came back like a lump of rubber or somebody’s discarded flip-flop needless to say I did eat it..and didn’t quite s**t through an eye of a needle the next day…I didn’t tell swimbo till after we left little harbour just in case murder might have been committed.
 

snowleopard

Active member
Joined
16 May 2001
Messages
33,645
Location
Oxford
Visit site
sorry you had a disappointing experience. in retrospect i think it takes a few weeks to adjust to the caribbean, certainly we didn't enjoy our first island, st lucia, as much as ones we visited later, mainly through culture shock. at least in antigua you are spared the boat boys!

we avoided the expensive restaurants because of our budget and, picking the cheap shacks we had low expectations and were often nicely surprised. at english harbour we had the best rotis of the trip in a roadside shack and an excellent vegetarian meal at another shack on the way to falmouth.

yes, a 'party' out there consists of deafening music till the early (or late) hours. we put up with a few nights of it, the worst being karaoke night in jolly harbour. how come all those who do karaoke are totally tone deaf?

i agree the snorkelling at deep bay was only moderate, gt bird island was the only really good spot we found.

it's interesting how antifoulings that work fine in UK waters are rubbish out there, i spent many an hour with snorkel and scraper getting inches of growth off our coppercoat. no excuse though for a supposedly up-market charter operation to give you a boat in that state.

i wonder if you found the same church as we did in parham. as i recall it was a fair hike up the hill and was a huge (for the size of the town) building with a very cool austere atmosphere, a complete contrast to the dark interior of st johns cathedral.
 

Talbot

Active member
Joined
23 Aug 2003
Messages
13,610
Location
Brighton, UK
Visit site
My profound sympathies. I officially dont have coeliac disease, but have a profound intolerance to dairy and gluten. I was tested for coeliac, but had not had any food to produce the antibodies for over 5 years, so surprise surprise the test came out negative!
Eating out is always a minefield, and trying to do so in a foreign language is even worse. These days I talk to the chef before ordering as I have found that this is the best way, but even then have to watch what they have done to the veggies (as a lot of helpful little people like to drizzle some butter over the veggies to make it look good.
worst problem for me is that the system will these days only allow a small amount of alchohol before rebelling /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 

wishbone

New member
Joined
20 Jan 2002
Messages
556
Location
South Yorkshire
www.reflect-designs.co.uk
Yep have'nt had beer since I was 17 I am now a very healthy 53 the strict diet i have to follow is in fact a very healthy diet I am 5'6 ish and stay around 10 stone......no conveince foods no McMuck etc etc.......I suppose being Ill since birth gave me a new lease of life from the age of 17 when they discovered what was wrong with me!
 
Top