tatu_malta
New Member
Any tips on best anti fouling ( and best practise around this ) for a fixed blade propeller ??
anti fouling on prop
- Thread starter tatu_malta
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Trundlebug
Well-Known Member
Clean and polish it. The smoother the surface, the harder it is for the bugs to attach themselves.
Various polishing methods - including metal polishing mopand "soap" work quite well.
The previous owner of my boat used to use Trilux, but I've just polished the blades and it's been fine. Need to use the boat regularly as well though
Various polishing methods - including metal polishing mopand "soap" work quite well.
The previous owner of my boat used to use Trilux, but I've just polished the blades and it's been fine. Need to use the boat regularly as well though
oceandrive
Well-Known Member
Don't know where you are so I'm presuming UK
Many maintainance companys including myself smother with Vaseline befor re launch as antifoul will burn off very quickly. but if your re-launching and putting the boat back on the berth for a few weeks or so then it will keep the growth off until you have your first good run. Ideal to ensure you props stay good for your first main use of the season.
Antifoul won't really stay in place on a motor yacht burns off very quickly. When I say burns off if you have an out drive boat next time you stop after a fast run try lifting a leg and feel the temp of a prop you will be suprised as to how hot they can get.
Special products available Prop speed etc seem to work for a while probably better on the slower displacment boats. But to date I have not found anything that will stay on a 30 knot plus motor yacht.
Hope this thread creates a challenge to this as I would dearly love to put something on my props even if it was to just save a little on economy, and stop me having to dive down with my trusty scraper.
Many maintainance companys including myself smother with Vaseline befor re launch as antifoul will burn off very quickly. but if your re-launching and putting the boat back on the berth for a few weeks or so then it will keep the growth off until you have your first good run. Ideal to ensure you props stay good for your first main use of the season.
Antifoul won't really stay in place on a motor yacht burns off very quickly. When I say burns off if you have an out drive boat next time you stop after a fast run try lifting a leg and feel the temp of a prop you will be suprised as to how hot they can get.
Special products available Prop speed etc seem to work for a while probably better on the slower displacment boats. But to date I have not found anything that will stay on a 30 knot plus motor yacht.
Hope this thread creates a challenge to this as I would dearly love to put something on my props even if it was to just save a little on economy, and stop me having to dive down with my trusty scraper.
asteven221
Well-Known Member
I dropped of one of my props for a minor repair to an expereiced prop repair outfit and asked the question whether to antifoul or not. Their advice was to polish as smooth as possible and put nothing on them. They also made what I thought was a good point, which was if you cover the prop with antifoul you then won't be able to see the condition of the metal, in particular in regard to electolysis.
BTW this is in reference to a bronze props and might not be valid for aluminium or stainless steel.
BTW this is in reference to a bronze props and might not be valid for aluminium or stainless steel.
asteven221
Well-Known Member
Sort of relevant to this thread.
The P Bracket and rudders are made (in our case - I think, i.e. Sealine) ) the same material as the props. Most other similar boats are the same AFAIK, yet they seem to antifoul these parts, with the same antifouling as the hull. I have just done the same, and after thinking about it wondering if I should remove the anti fouling from the rudders & P brackets. I am confused as to the best practice! The antifouling is International Cruiser Uno.
The P Bracket and rudders are made (in our case - I think, i.e. Sealine) ) the same material as the props. Most other similar boats are the same AFAIK, yet they seem to antifoul these parts, with the same antifouling as the hull. I have just done the same, and after thinking about it wondering if I should remove the anti fouling from the rudders & P brackets. I am confused as to the best practice! The antifouling is International Cruiser Uno.
rule the waves
Active Member
Never use an copper containing antifoul on a prop...except perhaps the stainless types. But never on aluminium or bronze props. There are special types of antifoul, which are also used on the leg (drive) itself, e.g. from Volvo Penta but in all, the efficiency is quite low...The only good antifouling is copper-containing. The rest are very doubtfull on having any real effect in the longer term.
jfm
Well-Known Member
The best results I have had are with propspeed. I've posted pics before showing the results.
I don't believe for one moment that polishing them in the hope they're too shiny for barnacles to attach will ever work
I don't believe for one moment that polishing them in the hope they're too shiny for barnacles to attach will ever work
rubberduck
Well-Known Member
Do you apply prop speed to everything (including out drives etc ?) & have you ever used lanolin / prop shield ?
I am considering giving prop speed a go this year as home marina is an approved applicator, but have had reasonable results with prop shield. Looking for a comparison.
blampied
Well-Known Member
Motorcycle Chain Lube for props
For Propellors (Currently stern drive stainless steel props)
Have tried various anti-foul paints (expensive & they all strip off very quickly)
Prop Guard (Lanion Sheepey Greese stuff), expensive, takes time, needs heating to put on, gets everywhere.
Lasted no more than half a season to start with but alarmingly after using in for 3 years it was lasting a month at best.
I had the distinct fealing that the barnicles & slime in my marina was starting to like the stuff.
2 years ago I stated using a spray can of Motorcycle chain lube.
Yes clean and polish the props but rather than put nothing on them
Give them a spray it's very inexpensinve and very easy to apply.
(does't hurt to spry the whole outdrive leg as well as the props)
Chain lube is designed to stay on Motorcycle chains in rain and road salt.
No it won't last all season but you get at least 6 weeks of no fouling at all.
After 6 weeks some fouling, but I can lean over the bathing platform to give the props a scrub, some of the oil is still on the props as the first clean of the props, they clean with very little effort. By month 2 there's nothing left of the oil.
But at least your still 2 months better off than the person who just left the polished prop with nothing on it.
Regards
Paul
For Propellors (Currently stern drive stainless steel props)
Have tried various anti-foul paints (expensive & they all strip off very quickly)
Prop Guard (Lanion Sheepey Greese stuff), expensive, takes time, needs heating to put on, gets everywhere.
Lasted no more than half a season to start with but alarmingly after using in for 3 years it was lasting a month at best.
I had the distinct fealing that the barnicles & slime in my marina was starting to like the stuff.
2 years ago I stated using a spray can of Motorcycle chain lube.
Yes clean and polish the props but rather than put nothing on them
Give them a spray it's very inexpensinve and very easy to apply.
(does't hurt to spry the whole outdrive leg as well as the props)
Chain lube is designed to stay on Motorcycle chains in rain and road salt.
No it won't last all season but you get at least 6 weeks of no fouling at all.
After 6 weeks some fouling, but I can lean over the bathing platform to give the props a scrub, some of the oil is still on the props as the first clean of the props, they clean with very little effort. By month 2 there's nothing left of the oil.
But at least your still 2 months better off than the person who just left the polished prop with nothing on it.
Regards
Paul
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jfm
Well-Known Member
I've never used lanolin so can't compare. I had propspeed on a sq58, so shafts not drives, and it was applied to the props and drives [edit: I mean shafts]. After 6 months+ it was working well. I posted pics a while ago; here is one, photo-ed after 8 months in the water iirc
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rubberduck
Well-Known Member
I've never used lanolin so can't compare. I had propspeed on a sq58, so shafts not drives, and it was applied to the props and drives. After 6 months+ it was working well. I posted pics a while ago; here is one, photo-ed after 8 months in the water iirc
Looks good, I will give it a go & report back with results. If it makes the boat hold its speed throughout the year I'm sure Sam will approve.
p.s. How are you getting on with the new boat, is she on her way yet ?
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