Another seized cock problem

[billcowan]

I have a large cock!

1½" bore in fact. the problem is it is seized in the open position, has been since I got the boat 3 years ago. This hasnt been a problem as I have never wanted to close it yet, but I feel that sooner or later, blocked bog, sinking boat, or whatever I will need to.

These cocks are quite expensive £30+ for bronze, and being an imperial cock, I would have to lug a replacement from the UK to Messina only to find it didnt fit or something.

So the question is, does anybody know if it is possible to dismantle this type (it looks to me like the hex on the lower end is a sleave that can be unscrewed from the body, to give access to the ball), to clean it and re-grease?

Or being 20 years old it will be goosed anyway?

 

[savageseadog]

You've broken every rule in the book I'm afraid. You probably wouldn't have been insured if your boat had sunk. What do you think seacocks are for?

 

[rogerthebodger]

This looks like a standard nickle plated BRASS ball valve. All valves outside the USA are imperial.

Yes it can be taken apart but I think after being in use for so long it will be gunged uo too much.

I would pursonally go for 316 stainless ball valves but you may also have to replact the skin fitting as well at that may get damaged during removal

 

[Pete7]

[ QUOTE ]
Yes it can be taken apart but I think after being in use for so long it will be gunged uo too much but you may also have to replact the skin fitting as well at that may get damaged during removal

[/ QUOTE ] And will the white hose thats attached to it have enough spare so you can cut it back to get it off in the first place. Having done the job in January I wish you luck but it took me 3 days on and off mainly due to restricted access to the fittings.

Pete

 

[jeremyshaw]

You might be able to free this up. Luckily you look like you are in the Med so putting a temporary bung into the hull should not be too chilly.

Looks to me like your seacock has reducing bushes so if you do need to replace it you will probably find one locally that will fit, assuming there is a half decent chandlers around.

It will probably be scaled up so immersing it in a descaling solution for a while may be the best start. You might want to take the opportunity to descale (whack) or replace the hoses too. Then take the handle off (otherwise it will surely break) and see if you can work it slowly with a spanner.

Do be careful not to damage the through hull of course.

But do remember replacing it is cheap compared to a new boat or the hassle of an insurance claim! The handle is the most likely point of corrosion/failure. This is the kind of job I'd only do having checked I was easily able to get replacement parts before I start wrecking the boat - I'd be fretting about the temporary bung.

A surprising amount of European plumbing is imperial, especially threaded.

And at least it should be clean, not like the blocked one I spent a few happy hours working on for a friend last year!

 

[Salty John]

That's a brass ball valve. In my opinion not suited to marine applications, but you would be forgiven for thinking otherwise when you see that a reputable company like Vetus sells them, and I've seen them on high quality boats, factory installed.

I'd discard it and replace with a seacock in bronze or Marelon (a special plastic - accept no substitute).

All IMHO, as usual.

 

[Lakesailor]

[ QUOTE ]
- I'd be fretting about the temporary bung.


[/ QUOTE ] Get a stop-end threaded fitting and pop that on for peace of mind whilst sorting out the cock.
Measure the thread pitch and pipe diameter on the skin fitting to get the right thread.

 

[tobble]

[ QUOTE ]
And at least it should be clean, not like the blocked one I spent a few happy hours working on for a friend last year!

[/ QUOTE ]

Must have been a good friend... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[nightjar]

I agree with your view of brass hull fittings and ball valves. Replaced all 11 valves and through hull fittings on my 8 year old HR last year due to galvanic corrosion using bronze for the hull fittings and DZR for the valves. The deterioration of the original valves was frightning and we have now fitted a galvanic isolater and extra anodes. Looking at the white power deposits on the seized valve, I would have it replaced without delay and also check all other fittings for similar signs of corrosion.