Another question on turbos

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Atheda

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My engine (Volvo D3-130) has been running sub-optimally for a while. It has been identified that the turbo needs a clean out. My yard have suggested that an extended high speed run would clear it, I guess burn off carbon etc. or it will need to be dismantled and cleaned.

I have come across turbo cleaning products that are injected into the air intake to clean and de-coke. Has anyone experience of using products such as Revive.
Any comments much appreciated.
 
generally not a good idea squirting so called cleaners into the air intake. Any solvent that goes through the combustion process inside the engine is not going to come out the exhaust and clean your turbo.
what do you mean by running sub optimally ???
does a D3 have variable geometry turbos???- if so they can stick/jam in which case it might be better to take the turbo off and dismantle it etc to clean it up properly.
a good long run will clean out any crud built up in the turbos but if there is something else wrong you may not resolve anything.
 
I agree i cant see this working at all after passing through the engine.

The "dirt" is on the hot side not the cold.

I seems that Mr Muscle Oven Cleaner via the hot side works.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PbUAfzi5BdM

I found this looking for reviews of Revive.

Infact it may well solve my Williams issue - as it is a simpler version of what williams suggested. Find the opening, fill with Mr Muscle, excise the valve ( waste gate??) and then run.
 
I bought a nearly new boat with this engine many years ago.

After 8 months on the Thames at 5mph, the fuel consumption dropped off, so i gave it a 'damn good thrashing' (And I'm not going to say where!!)

normal fuel consumption was resumed. it just needs a damn good thrashing for starters! :encouragement:
 
No Regrets said:
I bought a nearly new boat with this engine many years ago.

After 8 months on the Thames at 5mph, the fuel consumption dropped off, so i gave it a 'damn good thrashing' (And I'm not going to say where!!)

normal fuel consumption was resumed. it just needs a damn good thrashing for starters! :encouragement:
Click to expand...

As recommended by John Cleese:D
 
The turbo needs to run hot to remove partially burnt carbon deposits from the turbo blades. Just as on a propellor, solids on the surface destroy the fluid flow dynamics required to boost the air flow. It does not take much build up to badly affect the performance.

Partial burning occurs when the engine is lightly loaded, where the turbo blades cool down and then suffer a build up of partially burnt solid debris, right where it wants smooth surfaces.

Running the engine at high power generates a lot more hot exhaust gas which burns the deposits away, allowing the turbo to perform properly.

The low side can foul also, but this tends to be a soft oiliness that does not unduly impede the air flow.
 
Atheda said:
My engine (Volvo D3-130) has been running sub-optimally for a while. It has been identified that the turbo needs a clean out. My yard have suggested that an extended high speed run would clear it, I guess burn off carbon etc. or it will need to be dismantled and cleaned.

I have come across turbo cleaning products that are injected into the air intake to clean and de-coke. Has anyone experience of using products such as Revive.
Any comments much appreciated.
Click to expand...

The D3 turbo has variable vane geometry, which basically alters the amount of boost through the rev range to give more low down torque on less turbo lag.
Unfortunately this isn’t a reliable design if the boat is used at displacement speed or on the inland waterways .
The VV part of the turbo runs in the exhaust gas side or the turbo which clogs up with soot not allowing the vanes to open and close , the vanes move to adjust the boost by altering the air flow inside the turbo.
Just about every model car or van Diesel engine has this technology which is fine in a world where the throttle and load on the engine is being constantly altered .
On a boat however this isn’t the case, it soon starts to tighten up, because this engine is heavily reliant on data to the ECU to perform within the parameters of the sensors the ECU throws up fault codes if data like boost, fuel, load and throttle position don’t match the demand , that’s when this engine becomes a real pain to own .
Anyway back to the original question , the VVT part has to be stripped down and cleaned, then set up to the correct position, there is a control rod from the vacuum position valve , this must be set up to the letter, if it isn’t you get fault codes and a reduction in performance.
On some but rare shaft drive versions of the engine this can be done in situ , most sterndrive boats require the turbo taking off and going to a specialist .
 
Thank you to all who responded to this thread. The basic problem that I have is that the the engine has not been putting out enough power and has shown faults re lack of turbo pressure. All that has been said here agrees with what I have been told by my yard and with what I have found going through various forums. I will give it a good thrashing next time I'm out (Monday I hope).

I'm interested to see that chemical solutions are not considered. There seem to be a couple on the market Revive and Archoil AR6400-D Max that get reasonable reviews. Do they cause problems on marine engines ? Or they just don't work ?

Thanks Again
 
Atheda said:
Thank you to all who responded to this thread. The basic problem that I have is that the the engine has not been putting out enough power and has shown faults re lack of turbo pressure. All that has been said here agrees with what I have been told by my yard and with what I have found going through various forums. I will give it a good thrashing next time I'm out (Monday I hope).

I'm interested to see that chemical solutions are not considered. There seem to be a couple on the market Revive and Archoil AR6400-D Max that get reasonable reviews. Do they cause problems on marine engines ? Or they just don't work ?

Thanks Again
Click to expand...

Oven Cleaner is apparently the same stuff and gets very good reviews on line.

The Turbos are Iron and the chemicals do not cause issues.

If you google Oven Cleaner Turbo you can read all about it.

If it is sticking vanes then I would think trying that first is cheaper than removing a turbo and taking it to bits.
 
Hi

Only pure cold water is sufficient to clean the turbine.

You will need your wife's flower spraying bottle and 2dl of cold clean water. Adjust the rough fog. Use the engine to normaly heat. Remove the air filter and start the machine. Adjust the rounds of halv throtles and start watering spray the turbo. The cleavage separates the temperature difference and vapor.

Some marine engines (wartsilä diesel) have their own water cup that enginer cleanses carbons dirty turbo. You may want to buy a snake oil for turbo cleaning if you to want ...

NBs
 
NBs said:
Hi

Only pure cold water is sufficient to clean the turbine.

You will need your wife's flower spraying bottle and 2dl of cold clean water. Adjust the rough fog. Use the engine to normaly heat. Remove the air filter and start the machine. Adjust the rounds of halv throtles and start watering spray the turbo. The cleavage separates the temperature difference and vapor.

Some marine engines (wartsilä diesel) have their own water cup that enginer cleanses carbons dirty turbo. You may want to buy a snake oil for turbo cleaning if you to want ...

NBs
Click to expand...
What you suggest will clean the air side, but not the exhaust side.
 
No body listens , the D3 has a variable vane turbo, it’s not the air side that alters its geometry, it is the exhaust side that is the problem , it soots up with exhaust gas particles jamming its mechanism .
No amount of anything down the air inlet side will help.
 
superheat6k said:
What you suggest will clean the air side, but not the exhaust side.
Click to expand...

The same water circulates out of the exhaust pipe, the water vapor also cleanses, the valves and the plunger and the turbid on the other side, is not a magic.

Know this because taught me, in addition to the other Yanmar manual, and there are Yanmar turbo cleaning fluid http://www.oldportmarine.com/store/p275/Turbo_Wash.html.

In addition, this snake oil demonstration. Works equally well with just water...

https://youtu.be/pAJSOsIbqyc

NBs
 
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