Anode - had it, or still ok?

IanCC

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Hi, my hull anode seems to have plenty of thickness but has this hard yellowish layer that won't wire brush or chisel off. It gets eaten a little at edges where it shows dark grey and where it becomes a little brittle. Prop has a big anode on it. Anode also has an aluminum bar running through it.

Have tried to post pic but it is too big and don't have tech to compress.

Thanks for any input.
 

Tranona

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Use an image resizer like this imageresizer.com

If it is only connected to the shaft and prop then it is probably not doing anything much if the prop anode is still there. I have the same with mine now I have added a hull anode. The prop anode wears some and the hull anode a small amount, enough to potentially double the life of the prop anode.

The attached thread might be useful forums.ybw.com/threads/protecting-propellers-anodes-and-paint.602491/
 
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johnalison

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As I understand it, an anode that has seen use will develop a crust when out of the water which will stop it working for a couple of weeks after immersion. This can usually be wire-brushed off to avoid this delay., but someone more knowledgeable will give you better advice if your crust won’t brush off.

There are various ways to re-size photos. One of the easiest is just to open in Media Player if in Windows, when there will be an option in the menu icon. Don’t forget to file as a copy.
 

IanCC

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It is all connected and tested. Connects to bell housing then through r&d coupler with little springy thing inside plus a cable on outside through to featherstream prop with anode stuck on rhe end.
 

neil_s

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Have just cleaned the crust off my anode with an angle grinder. Also smooths it off - I'll go at least a knot faster next season!
 

doug748

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It is all connected and tested. Connects to bell housing then through r&d coupler with little springy thing inside plus a cable on outside through to featherstream prop with anode stuck on rhe end.

Mine is similar and I also use the chipping hammer technique to freshen it up. Yours seems to have another 5 years left in it.

I doubt either is doing much good or harm, I treat it as a good luck charm.

.
 

yotter

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It is all connected and tested. Connects to bell housing then through r&d coupler with little springy thing inside plus a cable on outside through to featherstream prop with anode stuck on rhe end.
When you say it is connected and tested do you mean it has an electrical connection with relatively low resistance? It could be that a wire had corroded and the resistance has increased meaning that it is now not acting as an anode.
 

Rappey

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Wire brushing zinc anodes is a common practice but there are others that say never to use a wire brush as it leaves particles embedded in the zinc which affects the anode ?
 

Momac

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I always consider anodes are a good investment and have often replaced them while they still have remaining life.
I have sometimes removed anodes that don't look like the have lost too much material but the weight compared to the new replacement has been noticeable.
 
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