Do you get similar degradation on the rudder anode?
Sorry- already dealt with. Should’ve read to the end. ?
Yup, we all have similar experience. My Antares 760 prop anode lasts 3 to 4 months but I also have a hull mounted pear anode with good continuity bonding to the prop so even after the prop anode has gone I still have some prop protection.Hi Jamie
The anodes on my 760 behave similarly to yours (I'm in a marina).
I guess it means they are working but it's a pain when the prop one degrades so quickly.
Prop anode has never lasted more than a few months - whenever I swim down to have a look it's either half chewed or it's disappeared again.
The 2 x 50mm round ones either side of the keel skeg last about a year.
The 2 x 70mm round ones either side of the rudder will do about 18months+ easy.
Aside from when I dry out on a beach in the summer I get it lifted once every 6-8 months for a wash and replace them as necessary.
Not sure what else you can do with those prop anodes - I had the continuity checked when it was out the water and the engineer said looked fine.
Line of sight is ok too with metal fittings and the other anodes.
The annoying thing with those Beneteau prop anodes is that you can't scale them up and also their design means they are only secure for as long as they keep their shape where the anode mates to the prop shaft.
Once some material has been lost against the keyed spline they will spin round on the screw when engine is in gear, wear the hole out then slip quietly off the end of the mounting screw.
I've tried putting nail polish on the spline and where the screw mates and also a blob of grease or sika in the hole to stop that section eroding so quickly but not sure it added more than a month maybe...
Just got to keep replacing them!
Which reminds me...
I need to book a lift out for a wash and replace my prop anode ?
Yes I've got that on mine (there is a bonding cable connecting the gearbox to the rudder stock) - that might be enough in itself to avoid too much electrolysis when the prop anode has gone.
I’ve bought a cheap GoPro with a waterproof case to check anodes in future, much more civilised ? Connection from rudder stock to bell housing all good (although I did discover that the bolt on the bell housing was very loose a couple of years ago), the 1kg hull anode cabled to the rudder stock lasts for a season (6 months) before needing to be replaced which is ok, I’m guessing this takes the strain off the rudder blade anodes which never erode. The anodes on the skeg prop guard erode fast but just about last a season. I’m planning on changing from disc anodes to a pear anode on this for the upcoming season.
Goes the long way round if I am, I’m in the Isle of Man ?? ?⛈
Not without blocking water flow to the stern tube.Could you fit something like this in front of the prop?
My hull mounted pear anode had a high electrical resistance through the gearbox to the propshaft so I fitted a MG Duff Electro Eliminator........
Does it work at anchor or just while the motor is running ?
Both, provides low resistance no matter if the shaft is rotating or not.
Larger anodes on the rudder may help, lower down.I think the collective thought of too little anodic (?) protection seems likely. Nothing I can do about the size of the prop anode, rather than add layers of complexity with shaft add-ons etc I think a 3 monthly dry out and anode swap is the answer. Glad I’m not in a marina with requirement for a liftAs previously mentioned the rudder anode suffers no degradation, unlike the 1kg hull anode which is bonded to the rudder shaft/stock.