ANCHORING

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I sail singlehanded quite often and so far have avoided anchoring when alone!.....but can see the time coming when I may want to. I'd be grateful for any tips re: dropping and - perhaps more importantly - breaking out the anchor when alone, both under engine and sailing. I've thought the theory through but practical experience (ESPECIALLY other peoples!) is invaluable. I have a 19' boat and everything leads back to the cockpit.....well...except for the anchor.......
 
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Carolyn, There are some basic rules when anchoring, they may seem silly but you would be surprised.
1. Make sure anchor is attached to warp.
2. Make sure warp is attached to boat.
3. Make sure warp IS NOT attached to you!
4. Make sure you are in safe place to anchor in first place.
As for recovery, you will probably have enough strength to break it out just by pulling hard, if not, get as much warp in as possible then tie it off and "gentley move the boat forward and slightly off to one side and it should break free or maybe take the warp back to a winch and winch it free.
hope this helps.
 

tome

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Chek your depth, multiply by 4, measure your chain along deck, drop it, have a glass of wine or two observe the chain and soon you'll be as bad as the rest of us
 
G

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If it's the doing it singlehanded bit that bothers you, it's really not much more difficult than when doing it with 2 or more people.

The only extra things to bear in mind are:

1. You want to make sure the anchor is dropped in the optimum place. Since you will be at the helm until the last moment before you nip forward to release the anchor, as you approach the anchorage you want to have prepared the anchor so that it's already dangling over the bows (not in the water) so that you can release it immediately with just a quick nudge of its fixing (in my case, a swift kick to the manual windlass).

2. If you're anchoring in a tightish spot, it may be tricky if the bows are caught by wind and pay off one side or the other while you've nipped forward to drop anchor eg. risk hitting other boats. One easy way to avoid this is, tidal streams permitting, to approach the anchoring spot heading downwind with stern to wind. Most boats will be directionally stable in this position. Alternatively, if you have to drop anchor bows to wind, make sure that before you leave the helm, the boat has more or less lost all way and the bows are already turned away from the wind in the safe direction in which you want them to pay off.

Otherwise, I think there's nothing specially difficult. Obviously, you have to be reasonably nippy getting the anchor up, but if things are tight, you can always, after breaking the anchor out of the ground, nip to the helm and manouevre to a more spacious spot before fully winding the anchor up.
 
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More tips:
1. If you are using chain only make sure that the bitter end (the inboard end) is attached to the boat by a short rope tail so that you can "cut and run" if necessary rather than fighting a rusty old shackle!
2. Find an empty anchorage in which to practice. Do it in as many different sorts of conditions as you can e.g. wind with or against or across the tide.
3. If your main means of securing your anchor to your boat is a rope warp make sure you have at least a couple of metres of chain 'twixt warp and anchor. It helps to give a more horizontal pull to the anchor. Mouse all shackles.
 

wrr

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If room in the anchorage is restricted, then breaking out can be a little nerve-racking for the single hander. If a rising tide, your draught and keel shape conspire to allow it, you can set enough sail and adjust the tiller so as to gently run aground to windward when the anchor breaks out. Then hoist all sails, back the jib, float off and sail out of the anchorage. Mud is so much kinder than the white plastic stuff of your neighbour's hull.
If things are really tight and you fear that the time from breaking out to reaching the cockpit may allow you to blow/drift down onto that gleaming white hull too near to you, then in a smaller boat, you may consider transferring the anchor warp outside the chainplates/shrouds to the stern. Although the anchor may not be the ideal cockpit companion, it does mean that tiller/sheets/engine controls are to hand while you recover the anchor but do not put the engine in gear with the chain over the transom! You will need to ensure that the chain/warp is tied down on deck and does not slip overboard.
Finally, if you have a bowsprit and a plough anchor, hook the anchor around the bobstay and recover it when you are at sea. It will be ready for use while you manouvre in the anchorage, you will not lose time trying to stow it and when you do recover it, the mud will have been washed off! This trick also works in reverse while anchoring.
Have fun!
 

Mirelle

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As soon as the anchor and warp or chain are overboard the boat is no longer controllable from the cockpit, and she will not be controllable from the cockpit again until the anchor is at the stemhead roller.

A CQR anchor, (I have less experience of other types) likes to have a lot of chain dumped over at once and then to be firmly dug in by the boat snubbing. This is a recipe for a foul anchor and inevitable dragging with a Fisherman, however.

You are most unlikely to drop the anchor just where you intended to; this afflicts all of us. In a crowded anchorage with strong tide you want to be practically touching the stern of the boat ahead when you drop it in order to fall back into the right spot.

Dropping an anchor is easy, picking it up and getting under way, under control, is the hard bit.

Yachtsmen have an odd habit of anchoring as close to each other as possible just so they can be in the bit of water that the chart says is a recommended anchorage. If you can avoid doing this, and have the courage to select your own bit of water, you will not only be off to a flying start but will enjoy peace and quiet whilst the Gadarene hordes are fouling each other at the turn of the tide....
 

Buck

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In my experience, if your first language in English you will have no problems with the anchor, if however your first language is German then find a pontoon, bet I get flamed for this one.

Buck

The thing about men and fish is one is always trying to eat the other.
 
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Many thanks to all who replied......lots of useful tips. I think the next step is to go and 'DO IT!' in a nice, quiet, spacious place.....with perhaps a friend not too far away standing by just in case. (And no observers.....!) Definitely the breaking out worries me more than the dropping. Not only the actual getting up of it but keeping the boat under control whilst doing so. So if anyone sees a madwoman repeadedlydropping and retrieving her anchor in a manic and frenzied sort of fashion..........assume it's me and turn a tactful blind eye!
 

ColinR

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I anchor singlehanded a lot. When you break out, get everything ready, sails ready, motor running, then take you time. Pull in so the anchor line is as near up and down as possible but dont strain yourself. If it doesnt want to break out and especially in mud, take a turn round the cleat and wait a minute or two. The upwards pull on the stock and the movement of the boat will loosen it and after a minute of so it will pull out quite easily. Then, unless its blowing like crazy or theres a really strong tide running, take your time again. The boat will slowly start to drift but you have time to stow the anchor and make your way back to the cockpit and get her under way. You need to keep a good eye on whats happening so she doesn't drift down onto other boats or into shallow water but you have time before that will happen. I always used to do it in a mad rush but taking you time works much better. Try it, anchoring is much the best way to spend the night in a secluded spot.

Colin
 

DavidP

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Hiya
i fish the Solent and needles area reguarly ,so anchoring is something i do all the time on my own or with friends ,either way it is quite easy.
It would take me to long to type how to do it on here ,but you can call me on
07747871612 and i will explain.

David.
 

alant

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One method of breaking out, favoured by 'Solent' fishing (angling) boats, is to attach a buoy or fender to the chain/warp using a bridle. Then motor forward quickly. The buoy runs down the chain/warp, lifts the anchor up, this streams behind allowing it to be retrieved when clear.
These boats often anchor in a fairway & may need to move position quickly when other vessels approach.
If single handed, this should work under motor or sail.
 
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