TernVI
Well-Known Member
Wear on the chain on ship anchors says that end of the chain is familiar with the ground....
Anchor Rode for Corribee 21
- Thread starter rohanp
- Start date
TC Tuckton
Well-Known Member
There has been some discussion above about the value of a mixed does with 10m of chain to reduce chafe on the seabed. The other end has its own issues. I have less than pleasant memories (anchored off Wells Next the Sea) of a rope rode getting between the bilge keels of a Kingfisher 30 and rapidly destroying itself on the prop.
Neeves
Well-Known Member
Rohan has omitted to mention what size of chain he has inherited. I am constantly amazed at how many smaller yachts have enormous chain and the bigger the chain - the longer it will sit on the seabed.
My guess might be that 6mm chain would be more than adequate - but I'd prefer a bit more than 10m
Jonathan
My guess might be that 6mm chain would be more than adequate - but I'd prefer a bit more than 10m
Jonathan
sarabande
Well-Known Member
Rohanp
Can I check something you said about the attaching the hard eye to the boat, pls ?
There may come a time when you need to use the warp as a towing line, and if it cannot pass through the navel pipe then you will have problems using it. I would cut the eye off, and then attach the bitter end to a line or a strong point in the anchor locker. That enables you to cut it free for other uses, or to release and buoy it if the anchor snags.
BTW I concur about the 10m chain starting to lift off the sea bed when under modest tension. Much of the effectiveness of an anchor depends on it digging in horizontally and the pull being horizontal and not having a vertical component. With a short chain and rope warp that is a component which will happen sooner rather than later.
Static and dynamic loads for an anchor are a well-discussed item, with lots of reference material on the net.
The forum member Vyc Cox has a very useful article.
BOW AND ANCHOR LOADS - Yachting Monthly
Can I check something you said about the attaching the hard eye to the boat, pls ?
There may come a time when you need to use the warp as a towing line, and if it cannot pass through the navel pipe then you will have problems using it. I would cut the eye off, and then attach the bitter end to a line or a strong point in the anchor locker. That enables you to cut it free for other uses, or to release and buoy it if the anchor snags.
BTW I concur about the 10m chain starting to lift off the sea bed when under modest tension. Much of the effectiveness of an anchor depends on it digging in horizontally and the pull being horizontal and not having a vertical component. With a short chain and rope warp that is a component which will happen sooner rather than later.
Static and dynamic loads for an anchor are a well-discussed item, with lots of reference material on the net.
The forum member Vyc Cox has a very useful article.
BOW AND ANCHOR LOADS - Yachting Monthly
lw395
Well-Known Member
There's also plenty of pictures on the web showing the first few metres not only on the bottom, but buried in the bottom.
I've used mixed rodes for years, though I don't go seeking gales to anchor through. I would always want a few metres of chain at the anchor to take the wear. And I'd always want some rope in the system to provide a bit of shock absorption, unless it's just a quick stop in nice conditions.
I've used mixed rodes for years, though I don't go seeking gales to anchor through. I would always want a few metres of chain at the anchor to take the wear. And I'd always want some rope in the system to provide a bit of shock absorption, unless it's just a quick stop in nice conditions.