Anchor fouls something......techniques

[FairweatherDave]

Ignoring the fact my lunchtime anchoring spot was unwise, I managed to hook an old mooring chain, and for a while was perplexed. Obviously I realised I was very fixed to the ground and did not know what it was. I tried paying out the chain again and pulling from a different angle but the bow just pulled sharply down . I then tried a loop of chain on a line,down the chain while it was tight and then letting go a little slack and winching the line from the genoa winches over the side. No joy. My question is what should I have done next? I still had no idea what I was hooked on. I started trying to fish for the anchor roll bar but that was simply too hard work since it was my Danforth kedge........on some chain, and the anchor seemed to be under the boat. So it would have been impossible to drop directly onto the anchor. Definitely my mistake there was not to release the tension on my chain loop as the Danforth might have hooked the roll bar if I had been doing it from the bow. But I had been swimming already so got my mask and flippers, nervously thinking how deep down the chain should I pull myself, when happily just a metre under the surface I found the anchor, tightly suspended by the tension from my genoa winch on the chain loop and the pull downward of this old mooring chain. I got a line tight from above under the old mooring chain, slackened everything else off and could free the anchor. Relief.
So.
Lesson 1 In a dodgy place don't anchor...... or use a tripping line.
Lesson 2 Have a small folding grapnel ready for fishing. Anything else recommended?
Lesson 3. Fishing for the roll bar will only work if the anchor is fairly directly under the bow

Lesson4 Being prepared to dive doesn't mean you should. Conditions were benign, water warm and the current had moderated to safely swimmable. I have since read about surfacing under the hull and head injury. And about getting stuck under the water yourself. I was already aware of both those issues before I went in but good to be reminded.

The reason for posting though is really to read about the techniques people use to get their anchor up if it has fouled something.

 

[noelex]

Here are a couple of typical photos of stuck anchors I have encountered. Often the water is not clear enough or it is not practical to dive and these images may give you some idea what is likely to be occurring when you cannot see.

Sometimes it is the chain rather than the anchor that is caught

Freeing a stuck anchor can be very difficult if it is not clear water where you can dive, and I agree it is not always safe to dive. The best defence is an anchor that can set very quickly. If the anchor moves only a short distance while setting the chance of it becoming caught under an obstruction is greatly reduced. This is one reason why I am keen on anchors that can set in a very short distance.

If you cannot retrieve the chain first check whether it is the anchor or the chain that is snagged. It is often assumed it must be the anchor and this is not always the case, as the third photo shows. Chain marks close to the anchor help. The length of chain should be very close to depth of water if the anchor is caught. Often people do not mark the first 20-30m of chain on the (correct) assumption that such a short length of chain is not normally deployed, but this makes it hard to differentiate if the chain or anchor is stuck.

To free a stuck anchor pulling it backwards is the best tactic. Unless you have a trip line (or water where you can dive) this can be difficult to achieve in practice.

Trip lines cause all sorts of other problems so are generally best avoided unless anchoring in an area where anchor snagging is likely. There are ways of minimising the problems such as cable tying the trip line to the anchor rode. Previous threads on YBW have discussed these solutions and these are worth reading.

If you do not have a trip line the first step is to try applying a side load. Try all directions. Especially If there have been multiple changes of wind direction sometimes circling the boat can unwrap the chain. You need to try both clockwise and anticlockwise.

If the anchor is still stuck locking the chain and allowing the tide to lift the boat is a way of applying a very high load to the anchor. This may be enough to break the grip. It is also an easy way to break something on the boat, so use some common sense. A rope connected to the chain rather than cleating the chain itself is sensible. The rope can always be cut even under high load.

If non of these simple techniques work then sending down a loop of chain on a separate line can be used to slide over the anchor as a way of dragging the anchor out backwards. Personally, I have never needed this option so perhaps others that have practical experience can comment on the best technique.

If the anchor cannot be released, consider buoying the chain so that it can later be freed by a diver, although this is often more expensive than replacement.

 

[FairweatherDave]

Thanks Noelex, really appreciated. Interested you don't mention fishing for the roll bar with a grapnel ... mine is a new generation one so maybe an option, particularly as I was only in 4m of water. I guess that could also have fouled the chain.....so a tripping line for that.....

 

[NormanS]

I hate using a tripping line and buoy, but if I'm anchoring in a place where I think there might be old abandoned moorings, I do. I have tried the loop of chain without success. I made up a big steel hook, shaped like a "J", with a ring at the top of the J, and another ring (link of chain) welded on the back of the hook just above the start of the curve, for a trip line. A picture would save a lot of words. ?.

If it's something like a chain that the anchor has fouled, and if the chain can be lifted even a little from the seabed, it's often possible by feel, to get the hook under the chain, take the strain on the hook, and lower the anchor out from under. All that is required then is to trip the hook, and you're free.

I've used the hook two or three times now with success. The reason that I made the hook was that I went to help someone who had their anchor caught under (I think) the electricity cable running between Coll and Tiree. The water was clear and fairly shallow, and I was able to pass a line under the cable using my spinnaker pole, with a line with a buoy on the end of it.

On one occasion, I got assistance from a local diver.

 

[BobnLesley]

We try as I'm sure everyone does, to avoid the 'dodgy' places but on the occasions when there's no choice, we attach a trip line; not attached to a float - they cause more trouble than they're worth - But floating line only a metre or two longer than the deployed chain led back to the foredeck. If you get snagged then let the load off the anchor chain, motor forward until over the anchor, then haul on the rope; it's not infallible, but has saved us a few times.

 

[noelex]

Thanks Noelex, really appreciated. Interested you don't mention fishing for the roll bar with a grapnel ... mine is a new generation one so maybe an option, particularly as I was only in 4m of water. I guess that could also have fouled the chain.....so a tripping line for that.....

I have never needed to use this, but I can imagine this would work well if you have a rollbar anchor.

I have a fishfinder that can be clipped onto the tender. It can pick up the rollbar of the anchor in good conditions. I have used this to find and therefore dive on the anchor in murky conditions. This technique could also be used to easily snag the rollbar with a grapnel and use this to drag the anchor backwards.

Without the fishfinder there would be more "fishing" but it should be still possible to snag the rollbar. I like to always have an accurate idea where the anchor is located so it should not take much searching.

Unfortunately a tripping line does not work if the chain is caught, alhough you can sometimes raise the anchor to the surface, unshackle it and then drag the chain through the obstruction. However, if the chain rather than the anchor is caught, using a sideways pull or rotating the chain clockwise or counterclockwise will often free it.

Personally I have caught the chain more frequently than the anchor.

 

[RobWard]

Because we rarely - if ever - anchor in more than 15m of water at low tide, I leave a 16m poly tripping line attached to the anchor, and clip it to a pre-marked link on the rode every time we anchor, which only takes a moment.

 

[sailaboutvic]

Noelex made some good points as always ,
But we need to remember most people who post here are not anchoring in clear blue water like Noelex and I and even then there many times you still can't see what's going on on the sea bed .
Like many we try not to use a tripping line unless we really have to because of the problem they can cause others as well as to us ,
But as I posted many times before and I'm surprise I not seen others mention it ,if you need to use a tripping line , once set why not just remove the buoy and use a line that will sink bring it back to the bow,
That way there no chance of anyone getting it caught, or thinking it's a mooring and picking it up .
The time we been fouled , unless the chain it self is waped around some thing just Leaving enough slack on the chain so it not tight and drawing forward taken tension on the tripping line is enough to release the fouled anchor .
I have tried in the pass dropping a chain loop down the chain but couldn't get that to work .
It's like a lot of this stuff , it looks good on paper but in practice it's another story.
Bit like using anchors in tandem and backing them against each other and setting both , good luck with that .

 

[Neeves]

I hate using a tripping line and buoy, but if I'm anchoring in a place where I think there might be old abandoned moorings, I do. I have tried the loop of chain without success. I made up a big steel hook, shaped like a "J", with a ring at the top of the J, and another ring (link of chain) welded on the back of the hook just above the start of the curve, for a trip line. A picture would save a lot of words. ?.

If it's something like a chain that the anchor has fouled, and if the chain can be lifted even a little from the seabed, it's often possible by feel, to get the hook under the chain, take the strain on the hook, and lower the anchor out from under. All that is required then is to trip the hook, and you're free.

I've used the hook two or three times now with success. The reason that I made the hook was that I went to help someone who had their anchor caught under (I think) the electricity cable running between Coll and Tiree. The water was clear and fairly shallow, and I was able to pass a line under the cable using my spinnaker pole, with a line with a buoy on the end of it.

On one occasion, I got assistance from a local diver.

We have exactly as Norman describes - and have never had to use it.

Ours is a hook with the long shank and ring on the end - one simple piece of heavy duty long wire, or rod.

In theory if we catch a ground chain, water logged tree - we can similarly catch the item with the hook, lift it slightly alowing the anchor to fall away. Retreive the anchor and abandon the hook.

Would it work - theory sounds good, I hope we never need to try it. But making up a hook, a 'J' shape with a ring at the top of the vertical of the 'J', as Norman suggest, is easy to store, weights almost nothing - its better than no plan.

Take care, stay safe

Jonathan

 

[FairweatherDave]

Good stuff, thanks all. Useful lessons for me. In an isolated spot I can't see the harm in a floating trip line and float but in reality around the Solent a non floating line (or lightly bound to the anchor chain periodically) coming back to the boat seems better. More likely I will fail to use one on the one occasion I needed it and end up like this time fishing about and then diving ( we only ever anchor pretty shallow).

 

[Hermit]

Has anyone used one of these? Self-Adjusting Anchor Buoy | The original - SWI-TEC

Always liked the look of them but would be good to know if actually useful to recover an anchor and doesn't rust internally after a seasons use?

 

[noelex]

Good stuff, thanks all. Useful lessons for me. In an isolated spot I can't see the harm in a floating trip line and float

A trip line and float run the risk of becoming fouled when the boat that deployed it drifts over its anchor with a wind or current change. This will invariably trip the anchor if it occurs.

A trip line bound to the anchor chain removes this risk, but is not as effective at freeing a stuck anchor.

There is no perfect solution. My own policy is avoid a trip line unless there is significant risk (such as anchoring where debris or old mooring chains are reported) and there is no hazard or inconvenience to other boats. If it is needed I usually use a trip line attached to a float, but add a weak link a couple of metres below the water that will break if caught on our prop or rudder.

 

[FairweatherDave]

A trip line and float run the risk of becoming fouled when the boat that deployed it drifts over its anchor with a wind or current change. This will invariably trip the anchor if it occurs.

A trip line bound to the anchor chain removes this risk, but is not as effective at freeing a stuck anchor.

There is no perfect solution. My own policy is avoid a trip line unless there is significant risk (such as anchoring where debris or old mooring chains are reported) and there is no hazard or inconvenience to other boats. If it is needed I usually use a trip line attached to a float, but add a weak link a couple of metres below the water that will break if caught on our prop or rudder.

Thanks Noelex, that's really succint guidance on the risks with trip lines..........I had only really considered prop wrap or someone trying to use it as a mooring /looking for a submerged mooring chain.....

 

[duncan99210]

On the odd occasion it’s happened to me, it’s a case of dig the dive gear out and sort it out . Not the nicest of experiences in cold water with poor visibility but it’s usually fairly simple to free the gear.

 

[FairweatherDave]

I am not a diver but plenty of recreational snorkelling. Is there a "safe depth" for mere mortals to pull themselves down a chain before equalising ear pressure ? When I snorkel I often go down a couple of meters before my bouyancy and inclinination take me back up. Just curious, I'm not after a safety lecture ....... my instincts are that I could go down maybe 4m but that would start to feel risky?

 

[dom]

I am not a diver but plenty of recreational snorkelling. Is there a "safe depth" for mere mortals to pull themselves down a chain before equalising ear pressure ? When I snorkel I often go down a couple of meters before my bouyancy and inclinination take me back up. Just curious, I'm not after a safety lecture ....... my instincts are that I could go down maybe 4m but that would start to feel risky?

I could write a massive list but basically, your instincts of circa 3m are about right ; that is for someone who doesn't already know how to safely go deeper.

And don't even dive to 3m if suffering a medical condition, in cold water, after alcohol, when stressed, etc., etc.

An anchor is valuable, but nowhere near enough for anybody to risk their lives.

 

[duncan99210]

As regards the depth you might reach before needing to equalise, I’d agree with Dom that you'll likely not get much further than 3m. However, your ears will become painful as you approach that depth: don’t ignore the pain or you stand a real chance of permanent damage.

 

[FairweatherDave]

Thanks both, your practical warnings are noted. I have done a couple of holiday dives and equalised (some time ago) but it is good to mentally rehearse possibilities and the risks. My hearing is bad enough already, no intention of making it any worse.

 

[SaltIre]

Good stuff, thanks all. Useful lessons for me. In an isolated spot I can't see the harm in a floating trip line and float but in reality around the Solent a non floating line (or lightly bound to the anchor chain periodically) coming back to the boat seems better. More likely I will fail to use one on the one occasion I needed it and end up like this time fishing about and then diving ( we only ever anchor pretty shallow).

This device is intriguing but I haven't any experience of it:

AnchorRescue anchor recovery system from Sims Marine

 

[dom]

This device is intriguing but I haven't any experience of it:

AnchorRescue anchor recovery system from Sims Marine

Clever, but no use for either a snagged chain or buried anchor.