Murv
Well-Known Member
I shall certainly do that, I've learned a few basic knots that I can tie proficiently (bowline, clove hitch, stopper knot, round turn & 2 half hitches) so will learn the rolling half hitch as well
Anchor deck chain pipe...how do you use it?
- Thread starter Murv
- Start date
I shall certainly do that, I've learned a few basic knots that I can tie proficiently (bowline, clove hitch, stopper knot, round turn & 2 half hitches) so will learn the rolling half hitch as well
OldBawley
Well-Known Member
A little side jump,
In 1997 I bought a second hand SL Seatiger anchor winch and installed a new cast bronze chain pipe. In 2008 the chain had sawed right trough the bronze, so I bought a new cast bronze chain pipe. This time it was a real big Turkish gullet piece where even a knotted chain would pass.
Just last week I saw the chain has again sawed trough the curve of the pipe.
Do I have to mention we anchor a lot ?
In 1997 I bought a second hand SL Seatiger anchor winch and installed a new cast bronze chain pipe. In 2008 the chain had sawed right trough the bronze, so I bought a new cast bronze chain pipe. This time it was a real big Turkish gullet piece where even a knotted chain would pass.
Just last week I saw the chain has again sawed trough the curve of the pipe.
Do I have to mention we anchor a lot ?
cryan
Well-Known Member
Its called a Spurling Pipe
BruceDanforth
Well-Known Member
I hand haul 8mm chain too and it can be hard work. If it is a bit blowy then I motor forward a bit on dead slow which can help with the hauling but be careful not to motor over the chain.
Murv
Well-Known Member
Its called a Spurling Pipe
Now, see, I spent ages googling to try and find what it was called, just to avoid calling it "the little square flappy thing that the chain comes out of!"
Thank you for that, it's just something I need to practice. Did try motoring slowly ahead but it was in a very strong wind and the boat kept veering to the side of the chain orientation (planing hull, absolutely no stability in a strong wind.) It was too difficult to shout back directions to my Wife on the helm so gave up on that.
I'm sure it will be easier after practicing in better weather.
The plan is to stick to the rope rode (with short length of chain) for fishing, day stops etc and all chain for overnight stops.
If you can't find anything in the books, try a search on Google. With the right key words you can find a lot of resources..
With regard to anchoring in 6 or 7 metres; to make it less strenuous, you could motor slowly forward, recover some chain as the boat falls back on the current, then repeat until your chain is "up and down", then still have plenty of energy left to get the last 20 metres in quickly, but why not anchor in shallower water?
If you do need to reinforce your bow cleat, it's not a difficult job for the moderately skilled DIY-er. You can find lots of info online; try the key words "glassing in a backing plate".
For fishing you are probably only going to need the light ground tackle you suggested. Get a smaller anchor for fishing/lunch stops and leave the main anchor in place for serious use and use the light tackle independently. Again, being an instructor, I will repeat my advice re training, Power-Boat Level 2 is not a demanding course and will increase the satisfaction you get from better boat-handling.
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sailorman
Well-Known Member
WOT ME :disgust:
NormanS
Well-Known Member
Its called a Spurling Pipe
Also known as Navel or Naval pipe.
Wooden Boat Fittings
Well-Known Member
A spurling pipe it is, and yes, the flap is just to stop extra water flooding your chain locker There are vertical and horizontal versions --
The load should never be taken on the spurling pipe's cover (or on the bitter end -- which, by the way, should always be line that can be cut in an emergency), but on a mooring cleat at least, or preferably on bitts (which is loaded through the deck down to the keel, not just on a backing plate on the underside of the deck).
Your mooring warp should start with at least a couple of fathoms of chain at the anchor, followed by nylon to the bitts. The weight of the chain helps the anchor dig in and also helps keep the pull horizontal as much as possible, and the nylon gives some elasticity to the whole mooring to prevent snubbing. And indeed, a dedicated rubber 'snubber' between bitts and mooring warp at water level helps with the latter even more -- make it fast on deck with a rolling hitch and then veer a few feet of extra line to put the initial tension on the snubber.
Mike
ETA Yes, also called a navel pipe -- but I think this is more of a slang term.
The load should never be taken on the spurling pipe's cover (or on the bitter end -- which, by the way, should always be line that can be cut in an emergency), but on a mooring cleat at least, or preferably on bitts (which is loaded through the deck down to the keel, not just on a backing plate on the underside of the deck).
Your mooring warp should start with at least a couple of fathoms of chain at the anchor, followed by nylon to the bitts. The weight of the chain helps the anchor dig in and also helps keep the pull horizontal as much as possible, and the nylon gives some elasticity to the whole mooring to prevent snubbing. And indeed, a dedicated rubber 'snubber' between bitts and mooring warp at water level helps with the latter even more -- make it fast on deck with a rolling hitch and then veer a few feet of extra line to put the initial tension on the snubber.
Mike
ETA Yes, also called a navel pipe -- but I think this is more of a slang term.
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symondo
Well-Known Member
A spurling pipe it is, and yes, the flap is just to stop extra water flooding your chain locker There are vertical and horizontal versions --
The load should never be taken on the spurling pipe's cover (or on the bitter end -- which, by the way, should always be line that can be cut in an emergency), but on a mooring cleat at least, or preferably on bitts (which is loaded through the deck down to the keel, not just on a backing plate on the underside of the deck).
Your mooring warp should start with at least a couple of fathoms of chain at the anchor, followed by nylon to the bitts. The weight of the chain helps the anchor dig in and also helps keep the pull horizontal as much as possible, and the nylon gives some elasticity to the whole mooring to prevent snubbing. And indeed, a dedicated rubber 'snubber' between bitts and mooring warp at water level helps with the latter even more -- make it fast on deck with a rolling hitch and then veer a few feet of extra line to put the initial tension on the snubber.
Mike
ETA Yes, also called a navel pipe -- but I think this is more of a slang term.
I just removed 1 of these in the process of fitting a new windlass as the entry to the locker is part of the windlass design for the 1 the old man has bought.
Looking at our set up - we have a bar across the bow roller which can lock between chain links to take the strain by the looks of it? The cleats at the bow are behind the windlass so would this make sense?
He has also purchased a bollard to fit beside the new windlass with the intention of using it on our swinging line mooring
Murv
Well-Known Member
Many thanks all, advice is greatly appreciated as ever.
I'm fairly comfortable with the mechanics of anchoring, having started a thread a few Months ago, which stretched to several pages! it's just the real obvious stuff that I have no experience of that people assume knowledge of.
I will investigate some training, I believe my club does hold some training courses.
I'm not sure if all of the powerboat II would be relevant, I've already done two days training with an RYA instructor on close quarter handling for example, but I will ask his opinion as well as the wealth of experience at the club.
I would have anchored in shallower water, would've made life an awful lot easier, but wanted to take advantage of a deep hole that I was fishing over as well.
I'm fairly comfortable with the mechanics of anchoring, having started a thread a few Months ago, which stretched to several pages! it's just the real obvious stuff that I have no experience of that people assume knowledge of.
I will investigate some training, I believe my club does hold some training courses.
I'm not sure if all of the powerboat II would be relevant, I've already done two days training with an RYA instructor on close quarter handling for example, but I will ask his opinion as well as the wealth of experience at the club.
I would have anchored in shallower water, would've made life an awful lot easier, but wanted to take advantage of a deep hole that I was fishing over as well.
sailorman
Well-Known Member
You chose the wrong creek. Sharfleet Ck would have been much quieter as less chance of a chop building up & snug at LW
rob2
Well-Known Member
Its called a Spurling Pipe
That's not what I call mine when I'm trying to get the chain to go down it! The anchor equipment on most boat is woefully inadequate. The Spurling Pipe is always too small to let the chain go down, the chain piles up in the locker and crew have to go below and move it around by hand, the cleats are too small and not aligned with the bow roller... need I go on?
None of this helps if your single-handed as you can;t leave the helm to sort it out when weighing anchor. Not so bad when dropping the hook, but I find it best to haul the rode up from the locker and flake it on deck before anchoring. Easy enough to reverse the process when weighing, but when do you get the opportunity to stow it all?
Incidentally, the Level 2 course is good fun but mostly taught in RIBs, so the anchor and rode are just lifted out of a locker and returned to same by hand.
Rob.
Murv
Well-Known Member
That was the original plan, but there were a few yachts in there, and I wanted to be well away from anyone just in case anything went wrong.
Turned out to be a bad decision as the wind steadily increased to 30 knots. Probably got about 3 minutes sleep all night...
Bilgediver
Well-Known Member
Could get a Pelican (Grab) hook and attach it to a strop which slips over the deck cleat or post.
See top row here for selection from some Swindleries
http://www.suncorstainless.com/hooks
Murv
Well-Known Member
sailorman
Well-Known Member
Looks a quick and easy solution, thank you
so is a rolling hitch
pcatterall
Well-Known Member
A tip is to have a small road cone in the locker, apparently the chain lays around it rather than building into a precarious cone.
Murv
Well-Known Member
And cheaper! What's the best way?