Alternatives to tropical hardwood

I have a teak handrail on the boat which has rotted and needs replacing. It is about 3m long. i was thinking of alternatives to tropical hardwood. I wonder if anyone has used an alternative that will look ok , be strong and long lived ??
Steel?
 
Don't dismiss softwoods especially Douglas fir or larch Both available from UK sources, Scottish is best quality but some good stuff available in UK. Both these timbers are classed as durable and look good too, easy to work take glue better than hardwoods and are inexpensive. Slow grown larch is especially strong. Theres a reason its commonly used in fences.
 
I have a teak handrail on the boat which has rotted and needs replacing. It is about 3m long. i was thinking of alternatives to tropical hardwood. I wonder if anyone has used an alternative that will look ok , be strong and long lived ??

3 years ago I replaced the crossbar on my boom gallows with oak. Bare untreated oak. It is now a light grey colour similar to that of weathered bare teak or iroko and looks as if will be there for another decade of two. No blackening or other staining and not a tropical hardwood. Maintenance free.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 
Contact Robbins in case they have any reclaimed teak still remaining at very cheap prices!

I have their latest list on my desktop at present. Sarah Goldstone's yer man!

Be aware. Some of those lengths have embedded metal chunks - mostly hidden - which swiftly chew up expensive blades and cutters. Resawing becomes very costly very quickly. Ask Robbins how they know....
 
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Don't dismiss softwoods especially Douglas fir or larch Both available from UK sources, Scottish is best quality but some good stuff available in UK. Both these timbers are classed as durable and look good too, easy to work take glue better than hardwoods and are inexpensive. Slow grown larch is especially strong. Theres a reason its commonly used in fences.

I have larch cladding on an extension to my house with locally produced larch shingles on a steep roof, there is evidence of rot after only ten years but only on the untreated shingles where moisture is held by overlapping contact, the vertical cladding boards are coated with Sikkens regularly and are sound. Locally grown larch comes in three varieties, Scottish, Japanese and Hybrid, hybrid larch is by far the most durable but I am convinced that imported slow growing Siberian larch is stronger and more durable than the faster grown native product. The larch planking you see on local boats here is also vulnerable at the frames where moisture is held longer.
If you choose larch, allow for the reduced strength when sizing and pre coat or bed surfaces at fixing points so that moisture is not held by capillary action.
 
I have their latest list on my desktop at present. Sarah Goldstone's yer man!

Be aware. Some of those lengths have embedded metal chunks - mostly hidden - which swiftly chew up expensive blades and cutters. Resawing becomes very costly very quickly. Ask Robbins how they know....

I bought about a hundred kilos of the stuff and so far no metal. Holes evident where they've been de-nailed, just a matter of luck and taking care when cutting. In my case the chance of damaging a blade is worth the risk. Especially as I don't buy expensive blades!:rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
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