Alternatives to silicone – butyl...or something else?

[176172]

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Its all been said really, but here's another for butyl tape, and that's backed by 40+years of Pro- yacht/boat construction experience. Whatever you do don't use the likes of sikaflex. You'll have to tear the boat apart if you ever need to remove the windows again.
+1
 

vyv_cox

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Its all been said really, but here's another for butyl tape, and that's backed by 40+years of Pro- yacht/boat construction experience. Whatever you do don't use the likes of sikaflex. You'll have to tear the boat apart if you ever need to remove the windows again.
I am not advocating the use of Sikaflex for the job but what you say is not true. See post 8.
 

gregcope

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Any got any Butyl tape recommendations (white)? For uk online ordering, hopefully with sensible delivery ;-)
 

saxonpirate

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I am not advocating the use of Sikaflex for the job but what you say is not true. See post 8.

Well Vyv if you've had personal success removing windows you've sealed with Sikaflex I'm not going to argue with that.

However, I'm sure you will know that from the day Sikaflex first entered the boat market, its been hailed as a do all, fix all, wonder material, which in some ways it is. It ticks a lot of boxes. The problem was of course, every man and his dog got hold of it and started using it for projects it should never be used for, and one of those projects is bedding windows on it. Its simply not necessary. If mastic has to be used, an oil based ,soft, non hardening one is far more preferable.

We all speak from our own experiences, and my experience in having to remove both windows and deck fittings bedded on it have had very mixed results indeed, and that was taking the greatest care possible to avoid damage. That's why I'd advise your average boat owner not to use it as a one size fits all.
 

[176172]

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I've had difficulty with a construction like your original drawing . Screwing through the butyl tape winds it up around the thread, and punching a clearance hole through it first rather defeats the object of sealing around the screw - so you need a tiny rolled-out sliver of butyl wrapped around the countersunk head just before it's screwed home. Then you decide that through-bolting would have been better yet , despite introducing a hole right through to the interior, since you wouldn't then be dragging the butyl round and round in the gap but drawing it in. What about a combination then, of butyl tape with clearance holes , flat-headed through-bolts with a nylon washer and a touch of silicon round the threads? Nicely , progressively tightened up over a day or so and then maybe slackened off just a tad ? ( wouldn't want the glass bedded on any material racked to the very limit of it's compressibility would one?) Oh ,but then - what happens in that silicon-ed hole when you unwind the bolts after a day of setting up? - grease better?...
And so it goes - on and on...
Your making problems that do not exist. Best spend the time researching construction of widows. A clearance hole in the butyl is all that is needed. normally the screw of often a bolt is purely the means of clamping two components together with a seal in between. A little common used in doing so will help you gain experience, no need to overdo tightening, just stop fantasising and do it. One would want to do that wouldn't one?
 
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