Aircon Raw water pump sq58

[Hurricane]

Those photos from the manuals only really help if you know the model of the system.
However, you can see from the chart that the model is dictated by the size of the pipe.
But I suggest that isn't a very technical way of identifying it.
Couple that with the flow shown on the chart, I don't think that drawing is relevant.

That said, the biggest one is supposed to be 30GPM.
If that really is its flow rate, the Stuart Turner pump would handle that nicely.

If it is any help, mine failed after about 12 years.

We love Alcudia.
I met Ed a few years ago when he was replacing the headlining on a SQ58 in Sant Carles - he probably wouldn't remember me though.

 

[jrudge]

I’ve got this picture, Ed Engel has been on the boat for last week doing his thing and had a root through manuals and found this.
View attachment 157292View attachment 157292
Now albeit I’m practical your references regards curves etc are a little out my league. So, in your opinion does this answer any of your suggestions?

That is the chilled water pump. The raw water is below it under an aluminium plate

Port side

 

[MapisM]

That is the chilled water pump.

+1 to that.

Tony W, if the pump you're referring to is the one in that drawing, it has nothing to see with sea water.
What it does is keep circulating fresh water+glycol cooled by the compressor(s) inside the closed circuit that goes to the fancoils inside the boat.
That's the reason why it's connected to the boat fresh water circuit, with a shut-off valve that must be closed as soon as you see the appropriate pressure on the gauge (check your manual, but that's what is supposed to be around 1.5 bar in condaria systems, as I previously said).
If there's no water inside that circuit, it should be filled with fresh water, but if it doesn't hold pressure it means that there's a leak somewhere in the closed loop. Which wouldn't be good news, because depending on where the leak is, it could be pretty hard to find it.

The seacock and the pipe attached to it should go to another pump, totally independent and serving a different purpose (i.e., cooling only the compressors inside the chiller, NOT the fancoils inside the saloon and cabins).
BTW, while a raw water pump not working properly due to a dirty impeller is indeed a realistic possibility, it's very unlikely with the circulating pump, which always run with clean, fresh water.

 

[Hurricane]

+1 to that.

Tony W, if the pump you're referring to is the one in that drawing, it has nothing to see with sea water.
What it does is keep circulating fresh water+glycol cooled by the compressor(s) inside the closed circuit that goes to the fancoils inside the boat.
That's the reason why it's connected to the boat fresh water circuit, with a shut-off valve that must be closed as soon as you see the appropriate pressure on the gauge (check your manual, but that's what is supposed to be around 1.5 bar in condaria systems, as I previously said).
If there's no water inside that circuit, it should be filled with fresh water, but if it doesn't hold pressure it means that there's a leak somewhere in the closed loop. Which wouldn't be good news, because depending on where the leak is, it could be pretty hard to find it.

You maybe correct, P.
My systems are all DX but a friend has a chilled water system and IIRC, there is a header tank/vent on his flybridge.
Maybe Tony W should check if the coolant water is vented properly.
Think of it like the expansion tank in a domestic heating system.

 

[Portofino]

The image thus far seems to be the chiller water circulation based on existing Sq 58 owners .FWIW ?

But the posting #15 re engineer reports no raw water in or indeed visibly exciting via the exhaust on the boat .You know the “ trickle “ .
Post #19 mentions “ strainer “ cleared by Ed .

With mine the chilled water pump , circulating water through the air handlers turns on straight away .
A few moments later the sea water pump kicks in .But as I said there are a few narrow specific circumstances where it’s doesn’t see my post #5 . Not because there is an issue more because it’s not quite ready , needed at that temp in the boat .

If indeed on this boat the seawater pump is hidden under sole boarding , then the OP has simply taken a pic of the only pump he saw at his first examination/ investigation……the closed circuit chiller water .= sent reply posts ( as helpful as intended) off in a confusing direction .

Also is all these graphs and charts .A pumps a pump in my book A N Other marine spec stocked on the shelf of any self respecting marine shop in the marina will work ( or at least be 24 hr del ) .

Its a bit like oil or car tyres do you actually require to read the manufacture detailed specs .Who does ?
You know it’s ( the cars oil light ) is just telling you it need a litre , = pull up a service station walk in and come out with a top up .Or you get a irreparable puncture……nice to match up but either buy 4 or just the one tyre .
Details if it’s rubber compound , it’s side wall banding are available…….but who looks ?

I have already said if it’s 1 inch pipage that’s it’s it’s sized for you .


Back to basics ……jelly fish smothering the strainer ? Has this been eliminated?

 

[Portofino]

You maybe correct, P.
My systems are all DX but a friend has a chilled water system and IIRC, there is a header tank/vent on his flybridge.
Maybe Tony W should check if the coolant water is vented properly.
Think of it like the expansion tank in a domestic heating system.

The motor and it’s impeller would still turn .

Albeit the AC system not working as efficiently , maybe noisy and a little warmer to touch on the impeller housing .


The only way a low or zero water in the chiller circuit would kill its motor temporary would be if there was some kind of pressure sensor on the pipe work .I money is there isn’t.There might be a light or MSg on a control panel in the salon .

Yes I agree they all have a expansion tank and a separate inlet tap to Ad hoc top up .Ideally a pressure gauge ( mine has ) colour coded with a green zone and needle in that .

 

[jrudge]

Did you get it fixed ?

 

[DAKA]

Did you get it fixed ?

Just in case anyone reads this and finds it useful.
Based in UK I only use our aircon every other year or so. We have 3 units and guarantee at least one will not work when needed.

Here is the fix or at least temporary fix for failed raw waters pump.

Close seacock
Take off pipe from seacock to pump
Wedge marina fresh water hose to pump inlet
Turn on aircon

Aircon will now work and cool from freshwater

Usually the pump impeller has been jammed with a small amount of minerals

After 10 -30 minutes the minerals will have washed away and the impeller will run freely and the hose can be turned off and seacock reconnected

If it doesn’t work rather than spoil your weekend just run the freshwater hose until you can source a new pump


After 20 years of doing this I have never known this freshwater hose not to work as a permanent fix ( at least for the season. )

I am lucky, my raw water outlets are above the waterline and I just run a freshwater hose straight into the hull fitting without the need to go to the pump or seacock.

In effect I use reverse water flow to clean out the minerals.

All my ac pumps are 30 years old now and still original ( agreed they don’t get much use in the uk but the boat used to be med based )

 

[Tony W]

Did you get it fixed ?

Work in progress, some developments last week. Raw water pump has been out (the one under the plate as you said) It was stuck solid!! Everything lubricated, freed up and sealed, bronze Impeller intact and runs a treat in the workshop, going back in today so will update further when its done.

 

[Portofino]

When did you last run it before discovery it’s ceased ?

 

[Tony W]

When did you last run it before discovery it’s ceased ?

Last October before it went on the hard, 6m of of everything drying up, calcifying, salt drying etc etc, turning into concrete. I’ve got same problem with 1 of the 2 water pumps and shower sump, they’re a lot easier to tackle though.
Boats are made for water, next time when out or even when not there it goes to prove that these things need using, there’s many moving parts that need exercise…..

 

[jrudge]

Work in progress, some developments last week. Raw water pump has been out (the one under the plate as you said) It was stuck solid!! Everything lubricated, freed up and sealed, bronze Impeller intact and runs a treat in the workshop, going back in today so will update further when its done.

Good luck. The issue with mine was the seal was dripping and after being disturbed it was gushing. There is no way to separate the pump and motor without some level of specialist equipment.

 

[volvopaul]

Many thanks for the feedback, I’ve been looking into everyone’s points, The boats In Mallorca, Nauticool coming back to me with availability and cost. Price in Mallorca like for like is e2700 and an alternative e1560 which I’m waiting for the name of and will ask for your opinions. Capacitor has been ruled out as the pump works apparently but not enough to draw water?? I can’t access manuals regards the curves so will track down Stuart Turner position. too.

I’m just doing one on a v39 , looking at Stuart pumps at £400 that might do the job supplying 2 units .

 

[Tony W]

Air Con problem solved! It’s been running for 2 days and all is good.

I’ve also taken the liberty to change the Hose from the seacock to the pump. Ive used a clear one In order to detect early signs of growth (or fowling) etc. The old hose was of the sort that had the re-in forcing steel thread and was showing through on the inside thus catching crustations etc.

all good now though, many thanks for you help.

 

[jrudge]

Those hoses are pain - they are impossible to remove without cutting. Glad it is all solved .

 

[Hurricane]

Those hoses are pain - they are impossible to remove without cutting. Glad it is all solved .

I've bought some of these on Ebay which should help.
I believe the procedure is to pour boiling water over the hose you want to remove which loosens it.
Then tools like these to pull it off.



They are the more substantial ones that are supplied for the auto industry to remove radiator hoses.
Here is an Ebay link.
New 2PCS Hose Removal Hook Vehicle Maintenance Tool For Radiator Heater | eBay