Did mine yesterday. Its a messy job and really quite difficult to pack the grease into the greaser. It would be difficult to pack without getting air in the mix. Just ignore the air bubbles.Done! I imagined I had been thorough when packing the greaser. But we will see
Don't waste your money.......the odd air bubble won't do anything much so long as they keep moving.....you just need a little more care when topping it up, but don't sweat over it.....auto lube (slurry) systems are notoriously fickle.......Aaand you were right! The air pockets are moving downwards
Dont realy like this lubrication system. Messy to refill, and obviously a bit difficult to fill the cups properly! Maybe I should look into some auto cartridge solution...
If you don't like it change the seal for something more modern. The grease does not lubricate anything. It is there to reduce the flow of water up the stern tube so that when the boat is at rest the packing does not drip. The packing is self lubrication. You have to regularly replace it as it gets washed away when running hence the normal routine of giving the handle a couple of turns when you leave the boat. A modern drip free seal does not need this.Aaand you were right! The air pockets are moving downwards
Dont realy like this lubrication system. Messy to refill, and obviously a bit difficult to fill the cups properly! Maybe I should look into some auto cartridge solution...
There is very soft (air pocket), medium (pumping grease, no back pressure) or hard (pumping grease and the bearing is full creating back pressure). As soon as the shaft rotates the back pressure drops. Based on dismantling mine after 4 years, the grease doesn't harden.Aie-aie sir! i will let it go. I am starting to get concerned about greasing of the shaft seal though. For a couple of months now the greaser have felt hard. Can it be that I have greased too much and the stuff have hardened in there?
A good point. I have always added a turn every hour when motoring, and then about 2 turns at rest to stop drips. On dismantling recently I had masses of grease along the 4 foot stern tube creating the risk of bunging up the cutlass. I will be using fewer turns less frequently from now on. I don't mind the drips from the conventional gland - it's reassuring to know the bilge pump works!If you don't like it change the seal for something more modern. The grease does not lubricate anything. It is there to reduce the flow of water up the stern tube so that when the boat is at rest the packing does not drip. The packing is self lubrication. You have to regularly replace it as it gets washed away when running hence the normal routine of giving the handle a couple of turns when you leave the boat. A modern drip free seal does not need this.
However that is a very tight installation and you may not be able to change it.
Much nicer to have a simple neat, cheap non drip solution like this! The tube is a vent and the shiny metal bit an Electroliminator connecting the hull anode to the shaft/propThere is very soft (air pocket), medium (pumping grease, no back pressure) or hard (pumping grease and the bearing is full creating back pressure). As soon as the shaft rotates the back pressure drops. Based on dismantling mine after 4 years, the grease doesn't harden.
A good point. I have always added a turn every hour when motoring, and then about 2 turns at rest to stop drips. On dismantling recently I had masses of grease along the 4 foot stern tube creating the risk of bunging up the cutlass. I will be using fewer turns less frequently from now on. I don't mind the drips from the conventional gland - it's reassuring to know the bilge pump works!
That is very neat and I can see the appeal.Much nicer to have a simple neat, cheap non drip solution like this! The tube is a vent and the shiny metal bit an Electroliminator connecting the hull anode to the shaft/prop
Could you offer up some guidance?It is not messy filling a greaser if you know how to do it. And doing it properly you do not get air bubbles.
Could you offer up some guidance?