Aimar P79 installation issues

eddystone

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This is a follow on from an earlier post. I have fitted a Raymarine i50 instrument to replace an old Echopilot with an Airmar P79 in hull transducer whilst the boat is laid up ashore but I have 3 dashes on the instrument indicating there is no signal from the transducer; the boat was immersed in water, in the cradle (although not quite to waterline) but it remained on 3 dashes so the launch was aborted. Since then with the help of a marine electrics guy and a bucket of water we have confirmed that the electrical side of things is fine and the transducer is working so the problem can be isolated to the transducer installation in the hull. (spoiler alert - the S32 is not a sandwich hull, unlike later Sadlers). Firstly, the P79 has a huge diameter compared to the 38mm Seafarer that was there before and that is a problem because there is only really one place to put it under the V berth in the fore cabin. The instructions for the P79, which can be adjusted to allow up to 22 degrees deadrise, indicate fitting slightly away from the centre line and at least 600mm in front of the keel. That area of the inside of the hull has a deadrise closer to 30 degrees and inconveniently is slightly concave viewed from inside the hull. As you can see from the photo, the original transducer tube was dead on the centreline - although there was some filler to flatten the mounting point, because it was so narrow it didn't stop the transducer firing through the hull. In my opinion, building up enough width in this location for the much wider Airmar would give it a lot of material to penetrate through. (Should say at this point this area is a bit messy because I've stuck a lot of epoxy down to stop it leaking so there was a lot of work with a multi-tool to try to remove this). What I actually did was to build up a thickness of filler to bring the deadrise angle within Airmar specification. In fact think I overdid this and ended up with angle of 16-17 degrees. And, because it it was still concave, used a huge amount of silicon sealant to bridge over this. Aforementioned electrician thought there was evidence the outer edges of the transducer body were touching the sealant. Applying an electronic level to the top of the transducer indicated an angle of about 3 degrees transversely and 10 degrees fore-aft.

So I now want to describe what I plan to do and would be grateful for any critique/suggestions. I'm making an assumption here that provided there is no air between the transducer and the inside of the hull, if it is working even out of the water it will give some sort of reading even if wildly inaccurate.

1. Just to check the sealant isn't causing a problem, remove the glycol, cut away excess sealant on the inside of the mount, refill and retest. If no change proceed to:

2. The possibility the layers of hull lay up/flowcoat/successive layers of filler have left some airspaces. Remove the transducer mount, grind/sand back to glass and remount in approximately the same location but this time aim to use less filler and aim for less correction of deadrise angle to utilise tolerance of 22 degrees, focussing more on getting flat surface and therefore less filler and fewer barriers between layers. If no improvement proceed to:

3. Alternative location. Unless you are a Sadler 32 owner you'll have to trust me there are no other suitable locations EXCEPT someone on the S&SOA Facebook Group has fitted his under the chart table seat behind the bulkhead and says it works although admits doesn't do much ditch crawling. I would obviously have to build a wooden box in there to protect it. Advantages - easy cable run and relatively flat; disadvantage - behind the keel, not in front.

4. As a final resort, leave the Raymarine as a decorative feature for the time being and fit a NASA Clipper Depth. The in hull transducer is of similar diameter to the old Seafarer one and the mounting tube would I fit in the old position. I could then look forward to experimenting with the Airmar when in the water and eventually have the luxury of two depth sounders.
 
I don't know the P79 but, having struggled for years with Airmar DST800 unreliability I did successfully fit a Hawkeye inhull sounder to our Sadler 32. To my surprise it works perfectly - dead on the centreline behind the keel. (Ours is a deep -fin keel.) The display is a small round dash-mount and I put it at the aft end of the cockpit. Since doing so I have, of course, finally found a solution to the original problem (changed the battery on the Tactik hull transmitter) but having a second opinion on depth is no bad thing and I've staggered the shallow-depth alarms which is useful.
 
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I have a P79 in my rib. It will not give a reading out of water and similarly likes at least 2m under it before it will work in the water. You can’t trick it with a bucket of water! I had no end of trouble with the glycol leaking out so ended up bonding it in place with a good dollop of sealant direct to the hull. I would clean the area back down and temporarily fix it with sealant until you are happy it works and is in the right position.
 
.... likes at least 2m under it before it will work in the water..... I would clean the area back down and temporarily fix it with sealant until you are happy it works and is in the right position.

You can't mean 2 metres, that would make it useless for creeping around the shallows.

Good advice though I think.
 
Three dashes mean there is no bottom lock, this is what you'll see when the boat is out of the water.

If it's an in hull installation it seems pointless aborting the launch, you now have no way of properly testing the installation.

"because it it was still concave, used a huge amount of silicon sealant to bridge over this. " That's a mistake, there should be no silicone between the transducer face and the hull.

As you are having problems with fitting the housing, why not fit the transducer straight to the hull ?
  • Thoroughly clean the hull, removing all traces of filler, silicone etc.
  • Make a dam, using plasticene, bluetac, or a big bead of sealant, deep enough so that when filled with epoxy the epoxy will level out.
  • Pour enough slow drying epoxy into the dam so that it is level, this will correct the deadrise.
  • When the epoxy is set, but not fully cured, put a small amount of fresh epoxy in and fit the transducer, twist it into the expoxy to help remove any air.
Make sure you use slow drying epoxy so any air bubbles can escape. This is a fitting method that Airmar used to publish, before they made the in hull housing, i fitted many transducers using this method.
 
I don't know the P79 but, having struggled for years with Airmar DST800 unreliability I did successfully fit a Hawkeye inhull sounder to our Sadler 32. To my surprise it works perfectly - dead on the centreline behind the keel. (Ours is a deep -fin keel.) The display is a small round dash-mount and I put it at the aft end of the cockpit. Since doing so I have, of course, finally found a solution to the original problem (changed the battery on the Tactik hull transmitter) but having a second opinion on depth is no bad thing and I've staggered the shallow-depth alarms which is useful.
I agree, I'm becoming a convert to the idea of 2 depth sounders. I'd never heard of the Hawkeye but I've looked online and it looks very neat compared to the NASA clipper - I could fit it to the cockpit bulkhead where the old repeater went. Jesame II is also a deep fin keel - did you fit the transducer in the engine bilge or under the floor - looks shallow enough for that - glued straight to hull?
 
I have a P79 in my rib. It will not give a reading out of water and similarly likes at least 2m under it before it will work in the water. You can’t trick it with a bucket of water! I had no end of trouble with the glycol leaking out so ended up bonding it in place with a good dollop of sealant direct to the hull. I would clean the area back down and temporarily fix it with sealant until you are happy it works and is in the right position.
Mine must be a stupid P79 as fell for the bucket trick! About 25-30cm in the bucket - I don't know exactly where the other person was pointing it but I was getting readings from as low as 0.6m to over 4 m
 
Three dashes mean there is no bottom lock, this is what you'll see when the boat is out of the water.

If it's an in hull installation it seems pointless aborting the launch, you now have no way of properly testing the installation.

"because it it was still concave, used a huge amount of silicon sealant to bridge over this. " That's a mistake, there should be no silicone between the transducer face and the hull.

As you are having problems with fitting the housing, why not fit the transducer straight to the hull ?
  • Thoroughly clean the hull, removing all traces of filler, silicone etc.
  • Make a dam, using plasticene, bluetac, or a big bead of sealant, deep enough so that when filled with epoxy the epoxy will level out.
  • Pour enough slow drying epoxy into the dam so that it is level, this will correct the deadrise.
  • When the epoxy is set, but not fully cured, put a small amount of fresh epoxy in and fit the transducer, twist it into the expoxy to help remove any air.
Make sure you use slow drying epoxy so any air bubbles can escape. This is a fitting method that Airmar used to publish, before they made the in hull housing, i fitted many transducers using this method.
Not sure if the shape of the transducer unit, as adapted for the housing, allows this but I'll certainly experiment
 
I agree, I'm becoming a convert to the idea of 2 depth sounders. I'd never heard of the Hawkeye but I've looked online and it looks very neat compared to the NASA clipper - I could fit it to the cockpit bulkhead where the old repeater went. Jesame II is also a deep fin keel - did you fit the transducer in the engine bilge or under the floor - looks shallow enough for that - glued straight to hull?

This is the transducer. The furthest aft under a cabin sole floorboard that it could go. I tried it in that location stuck with vaseline just to see whether it would work at all as I had some doubt as to how effective an in-hull would be anywhere, let alone an unpromising location behind the keel. It worked, so then I tried to upset in on a sea trial but it was rock-steady. So that is the permanent home on a large dollop of thickened epoxy. I'd go with the PaulRainbow method for your P79 first though, if it is possible for you.

fJvV6gQl.jpg
 
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This is the transducer. The furthest aft under a cabin sole floorboard that it could go. I tried it in that location stuck with vaseline just to see whether it would work at all as I had some doubt as to how effective an in-hull would be anywhere, let alone an unpromising location behind the keel. It worked, so then I tried to upset in on a sea trial but it was rock-steady. So that is the permanent home on a large dollop of thickened epoxy. I'd go with the PaulRainbow method for your P79 first though.

fJvV6gQl.jpg
Thanks - looks like it's on the centreline ; I could vaseline it and stop it moving with gaffertape just to get down the River Lynher which i wouldn't like to do without some indication of depth.
 
Yes, dead on the centreline.
I've ordered a Hawkeye and was looking at where you have installed yours - just wondered where you routed the transducer cable? I'm not sure I could get a drill in to make a hole between that section of bilge and the engine bilge or is it better to route it into the locker under the sink. Either way there seems to be a very thick bulkhead section to get through, unless it's hollow. I did wonder about mounting it in the engine bilge, forward of the scrum box or in the locker under the galley sink.
Regarding gluing the transducer direct to the hull, only thing is I'd have to add a lot of thickness to get it level. I've removed the mounting and will improve on my previous effort. There was so much sealant squeezed inside the mount it may have interfered with the signal through the hull.
 
I've ordered a Hawkeye and was looking at where you have installed yours - just wondered where you routed the transducer cable? I'm not sure I could get a drill in to make a hole between that section of bilge and the engine bilge or is it better to route it into the locker under the sink. Either way there seems to be a very thick bulkhead section to get through, unless it's hollow. I did wonder about mounting it in the engine bilge, forward of the scrum box or in the locker under the galley sink.

Mine is routed under the sink locker then into the engine compartment but only because there were already holes that could be used. I keep a right-angled drill attachment with the boat drill - about £15.
 
Epilogue

Removed the Airmar tank and refitted - think if anything further from completely level than before, particularly fore/aft, but avoided sealant inside the tank. Hawkeye transducer temporarily vaselined in place, in location as per Poey50.

Launched on Tuesday looking forward (not!) to trip down Lynher River from Treluggan Boatyard with the possibility of no depth indicator at all. Predictably 3 dashes on both Raymarine and Hawkeye whilst on the pontoon (very gloopy mud bottom) but remarkably both then showed a value when I got going down river, the Hawkeye fairly consistently showing 0.2m less which is consistent with fixing positions (no keel offset on either). Hawkeye would read down to 2.1m which is about 2.6/2.7m allowing for depth below waterline, Raymarine not below 3m. Also one or other and sometimes both would stop reading for a short period even in deeper water now and then. So not perfect but I will probably leave transducers in existing positions for the time being.
So although some people assert an in hull transducer will give a reading out of the water, it didn't work for me.
PS Poey50 - do you think epoxying the Hawkeye transducer to the hull would make it work better than petroleum jelly?
 
Epilogue

Removed the Airmar tank and refitted - think if anything further from completely level than before, particularly fore/aft, but avoided sealant inside the tank. Hawkeye transducer temporarily vaselined in place, in location as per Poey50.

Launched on Tuesday looking forward (not!) to trip down Lynher River from Treluggan Boatyard with the possibility of no depth indicator at all. Predictably 3 dashes on both Raymarine and Hawkeye whilst on the pontoon (very gloopy mud bottom) but remarkably both then showed a value when I got going down river, the Hawkeye fairly consistently showing 0.2m less which is consistent with fixing positions (no keel offset on either). Hawkeye would read down to 2.1m which is about 2.6/2.7m allowing for depth below waterline, Raymarine not below 3m. Also one or other and sometimes both would stop reading for a short period even in deeper water now and then. So not perfect but I will probably leave transducers in existing positions for the time being.
So although some people assert an in hull transducer will give a reading out of the water, it didn't work for me.
PS Poey50 - do you think epoxying the Hawkeye transducer to the hull would make it work better than petroleum jelly?

My Hawkeye read down to about 2.4m (0.7 under keel) which is the shallowest I have been in. The transducer was faultless with vaseline and just as good with epoxy.
 
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