Advice about my anchor and chain please - see photos

I really think G40 is unnecessary and you should look at G30 - and a snubber. Read the articles on snubbing, linked earlier, and use at least a boat length snubber. Whatever chain you buy you will find the snubber invaluable (small yachts tend to be skittish) . Lofrans (windlass makers), I think, sell 6mm G40, CMP (of Rocna fame) sell 6mm G40 - I cannot believe you cannot source it anywhere in the UK. Any decent chandler will get it for you. Your issue then is finding a shackle to fit, speak to Geoff at Knox Anchor or try Tecni (in the UK) - who stock Crosby shackles. If you still have issues - post again :(

Jonathan

I think Lofrans only sell G40 but CMP will supply G30 (as well as G40) 6mm ((under their Titan brand). I would point you at CMP, their chain has been good in the past (in fact excellent). I don't know Lofrans quality at all and they are new in the game. The option is Maggi's chain and their are, or were, question marks of galvanising quality (and its gal quality that determines life, as you have found out :).

Galvanising quality is a bit of a lottery - sadly - though some galvanisers are, much, better than others but they don't necessarily coat chain (Highland seem good but don't coat new chain).
 
Last edited:
Hi Jonathan- sorry I am possibly missing something but why would you advise getting g30 over g40? Surely I would just get g40 as it's stronger? Or does g40 have other disadvantages ?
Yes I've been reading up on snubbers and one is on my winter list of things to buy
Thanks
By the way I'm not saying I can't source g30 - I was just mentioning thay Jimmy Greeves don't sell it
 
There is nothing wrong with G40, it is obviously stronger and will give you an extra safety factor. You might sleep better. But you simply do not need it. Most of Europe, Australia and many in America use G30 - and any issues have not been caused by the strength of the steel - but poor manufacture. The last chain failure I heard of was about 10 years ago - a poor weld (it was made in Europe). You may find it even more difficult to find a shackle with commensurate strength to G40 (realising the shackle really needs to have a WLL of 2 x that of the chain - or you are wasting you're money). There is an option to lack of choice on shackles - but check first and if you don't find a solution - post here. The galvanising of G40 will be as good as G30. If you check Vyv's website you will find the G30 chain he tested is almost G40 quality. The G30 I have tested is almost G40 quality. The G40 quality I have tested meets G40 specification - but is not exceptionally better.

If you will feel more comfortable with G40 - go for it.

Shackles can lock up in the slot in the shank - admittedly a small chance and shackle locked up at 90 degrees will reduce its WLL by 50% - the shackle industry has warnings and I've tested it - and found it to be correct. I have a shackle that failed, not mine, - it locked up (the anchor was lost). Crosby has an excellent reputation, or check with Knox Anchor. Don't buy shackles that say 'China' - there are hundreds of China shackle makers, some are excellent, some are rubbish.

I would not normally recommend CMP Titan Black Pin shackles. If push comes to shove buy Black Pin shackles but note their WLL is SHORT tons - lb not kg, imperial not metric. Before you buy - check the shackle will fit both the chain and anchor (you may need to buy a bigger one to fit between the shackle, on the chain, and to fit the anchor. Compromises - it about anchoring :(

Go to your nearest rock climbing gym ask it you can have one (two) of their retired ropes. Here they cannot sell them, I think it bestows liability on the gym, they cannot pass them to anyone using them for 'lifting' or climbing (including arborists). If you don't help to recycle - they go to land fill, and may last another 500 years. They are retired in a time schedule or after a severe fall. Get 2 - snubbers are consumables. Be prepared to make a small donation to the tea or Xmas party fund. If you get a choice - go for thinner rope, 8mm rather than 10/12mm. I think gyms may all use 10/12mm.

When you want to retire your snubber, use it as a dinghy painter (or dog leash, or anything else you want to secure).

Jonathan
 
vyv_cox said:
A reliable rule of thumb is provided by the Prof. John Knox expression Force (in kg force) = (1/500) x (LOA in metres squared) x (wind speed in knots squared)
Click to expand...

Is that steady load, or allowing for shocks from the boat leaping about? If steady, would a safe figure allowing for shocks be double, assuming a snubber or a mixed rode with several metres of octoplait out?

TIA, and apologies for the "hijack"!
 
Thanks Jonathan. I think I'll just go with g40 is it doesn't seem much more expensive than g30. It's about £3.80 per metre.
I'm going to get some rode spliced to the chain as well and I thought it would be useful to have it arranged so that the typical amount of scope I let it would include some rope I.e if I typically want to let out 40m then I could have 30 metres of chain spliced to the rode which means I would usually have 10m rode - which would automatically act as my snubber.
 
Stemar said:
Is that steady load, or allowing for shocks from the boat leaping about? If steady, would a safe figure allowing for shocks be double, assuming a snubber or a mixed rode with several metres of octoplait out?

TIA, and apologies for the "hijack"!
Click to expand...

Try this for another view, before my time.

https://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/30_17/features/5005-1.html

If you wonder why I link to PS and not one other mags, like the sponsor of this site - the PS articles are accessible and they have a good search function.

Jonathan
 
Crinan12 said:
Thanks Jonathan. I think I'll just go with g40 is it doesn't seem much more expensive than g30. It's about £3.80 per metre.
I'm going to get some rode spliced to the chain as well and I thought it would be useful to have it arranged so that the typical amount of scope I let it would include some rope I.e if I typically want to let out 40m then I could have 30 metres of chain spliced to the rode which means I would usually have 10m rode - which would automatically act as my snubber.
Click to expand...

I confess my comments are coloured by being a Scot with a strong presbyterian education, look after your money and don't spend it unnecessarily! I also get brownie points when I tell my wife, for example, I saved money by not buying the G40 and only bought the G30 :) ! - or in my case 'I processed some 6mm G80 which cost the same as 8mm G30'.

I cannot recall what you draw but I suspect you will anchor many times in places where 30m of chain, or less will be more than adequate - so you will still need a snubber (but might use it less often than if you had all chain). I would certainly not be averse to the idea of 30m of chain and some rope (more than 10m). I don't know where you are going to use the yacht (and If you tell me I won't know the area) but 10m is a bit parsimonious. If you are willing to buy G40 then I'd think 30m of rope might be a good idea. Others with local knowledge will offer better advise.

But the idea of, for example deploying 30m of chain and 10m of your rope, will be OK - but the rope for the rode will probably be a bit hefty to use as a snubber (in order to be strong enough (slightly stronger than the chain) and will thus probably not be very elastic. I might suggest some caution - get the 'free' climbing rope and try with and without.

Our catamaran was supplied with 30m of chain (which was OKish) but we soon upgraded to 50m, we only draw a metre, but we now carry 75m. And we now use 30m snubbers (one each side), 38', 22'6" beam 7t the snubbers run from each transom and we would normally only deploy 20m)

Jonathan
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Other threads that may be of interest

N
Viking AnchorsI
Replies
0
Views
130
Neeves
N

Share this page

Top