A Small Rant: Why Do Lifejacket CO2 Cylinders Invariably Rust

On my coastguard team we have a set of 'ordinary' lifejackets, they regularly get dunked, always get washed in fresh water and hung up to dry.
And I've never seen a rusty cylinder yet.
Rusty cylinders suggests to me the LJs are getting put away on board still wet with salt water. Hardly taking care of them.
 
Last week I dug out my early Musto lifejacket with harness ( made I am pretty sure by Crewsaver)....jacket is at least 16 years old ...could be over 20. I looked at the cylinder and was horrified to find it covered in rust and looking incredibly tatty. Everything about it seemed corroded ...pulled the cord and wham the L/J inflated perfectly with no sign of any leaks or faults.
I had to put the firing mechanism into a vice and get a wrench on to the cylinder to unscrew it but it eventually came out.
Everything seems to be working but when I pull the cord I cannot see the firing pin move....my friendly local chandler said he will keep supplying me with cylinders at £14 per time until I have tested it enough times to be convinced it is going to work when I need it.
Do I make him rich or say "It seems OK to me?"
 
savageseadog said:
Every time I come across used lifejackets the CO2 cylinders are invariably rusted sometimes very badly. Most of them (all?) are plated with a golden finish which seems to barely protect the steel. Why can't they be finished with some decent paint and be marked in a permanent way? Fit for purpose?.........No
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A coat of varnish or Haematite will solve your concerns - that's the way it goes on my boat.

PWG
 
PeterGibbs said:
A coat of varnish or Haematite will solve your concerns - that's the way it goes on my boat.
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hematite-001.jpg
 
Croc said:
Last week I dug out my early Musto lifejacket with harness ( made I am pretty sure by Crewsaver)....jacket is at least 16 years old ...could be over 20. I looked at the cylinder and was horrified to find it covered in rust and looking incredibly tatty. Everything about it seemed corroded ...pulled the cord and wham the L/J inflated perfectly with no sign of any leaks or faults.
I had to put the firing mechanism into a vice and get a wrench on to the cylinder to unscrew it but it eventually came out.
Everything seems to be working but when I pull the cord I cannot see the firing pin move....my friendly local chandler said he will keep supplying me with cylinders at £14 per time until I have tested it enough times to be convinced it is going to work when I need it.
Do I make him rich or say "It seems OK to me?"
Click to expand...

Erm, I'd say you need to get it serviced! Or buy a new jacket!! If it was heavily corroded, it could have "infected" the bladder.

Had it not previously been serviced every two years, as per most manufacturers reccomendations?
 
prv said:
The Hammar fittings place the bottle inside the jacket bladder, which seems a good way of keeping them dry and hence non-corroded.
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If you test-inflate them to check the bladder doesn't leak, use a pump rather than mouth to avoid introducing moisture.

I'd also be wary of weighing them regularly as there is a disk that dismantling frequently could compromise the seal between the bladder and the mechanism.
 
The disadvantage of painting them is that it hides their weight details - not recommended.

Perhaps all lifejacket cylinders should be gold plated - that should stop any rust.

Shorn
 
Shorn100 said:
The disadvantage of painting them is that it hides their weight details - not recommended.

Perhaps all lifejacket cylinders should be gold plated - that should stop any rust.

Shorn
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Though providing you use something thin enough or a clear "shell", then that wouldn't be a problem. Alternatively the application of an OHP pen after coating can clear that one up.
 
rusty cyliders - not!

Whilst still in good condition, I lightly sandpaper and then apply a couple of coats of smooth finish hammerite paint. #
Never had one go rusting after doing this.
Remember it's not the cylinders going rusty and leaking gas that's the problem, it's the abrasive surface caused by the rust that cuts in to the fabric of the lifejacket inflatable chambers.
If the cylinder fails you might have the option to inflate manually; no point however if the LJ is punctured
 
Sorry to come in late on this, but I don't often venture towards this side.

To answer the original post the cylinders are coated with a zinc plate and di-chromate passivate. (I'm not a geek, just in the metal finishing trade) This finish was originated by the motor trade and is usually regarded to pass a "72 hour salt spray test". However, times and technology have moved on. The trade now requires a much better finish.

This has been provided by a zinc/nickel alloy plating finish with a chrome free passivate giving up to "1000 hours salt spray" protection. Not that much more expensive than the original finish, but much improved. Wouldn't take much for the cylinder suppliers to change their specification to their plating suppliers.
 
It wouldn't take much, very true. But then you'd have to ask the question as to why the manufacturer would want to invest in making a "consumable" last longer, and so reducing their turnover.
 
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FishyInverness said:
Erm, I'd say you need to get it serviced! Or buy a new jacket!! If it was heavily corroded, it could have "infected" the bladder.

Had it not previously been serviced every two years, as per most manufacturers reccomendations?
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Fire the cylinder and wait and see how long the jacket remains inflate. Probably help if some weight was applied to the jacket. How much,i dont know.
If it deflates within a day its definitely fit to dump
 
So pleased to find this forum. Rusting cylinders are a nightmare in my coastal rowing club. The obvious reason is that most competitors cannot be bothered to give them the TLC that they require. laying them in an open rowing boat is not good. I have taken to salvaging bottles that are not too badly corroded. I sand them down with wet n dry paper,then apply rust treatment,followed by a coat of varnish. I weigh them before cleaning, and reweigh them after varnishing. The weight can vary a couple of grams either way from the stamped weight,sometimes its the same. I have never applied varnish from new ,as i look after my equipment, but i do recommend to others that they do so. I have a club safety briefing tomorrow ,and have a couple of ripe specimens for display. The shock factor will be brief,will soon be forgotten,and normal lack of maintenance will resume.
 
savageseadog said:
Every time I come across used lifejackets the CO2 cylinders are invariably rusted sometimes very badly. Most of them (all?) are plated with a golden finish which seems to barely protect the steel. Why can't they be finished with some decent paint and be marked in a permanent way? Fit for purpose?.........No
Click to expand...
You are correct I think / lazy cheap skate manufacturers , all for the sake of some varnish or whatever. I think I was lucky in that i always brought my Lj home and I’d soaked rinsed them and hung them to dry. Never lost a 10th of a 10 th of a gramme in weight.
 
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