A how to - add wireless remote to Simrad tillerpilot

anoccasionalyachtsman

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Inspired by Spyro's thread on doing the same to a Raymarine pilot, I thought I'd do likewise unto my Simrad. This is a TP32, but I believe that the TP10 and 22 share the same casing.

You'll need one of these.

SVoirtCJHs4SX8HM4jjUdLuNxbGUpA3Ce_PnO7IGyaF0RaYz3VybTOsxxKmvFrzHtlru3uC6iog8QGTbIZoFHbQ1rq9qQgNV1pHR8Ehvlb4mmY9CrLdsmuqxi_GrcFZ1t7L3UET7-ullIpfMhU4LBGJ-RekeXVjjEtXZh7JOEJiS-0QlKmptdi9q1yetliSYfCo7JDsBjWlU92wSwp9kTMNhasAeR7vGyjkaVXKvaQrkIWS2s64OwLOQWG45W2QF6lqsiDf3QNwdx94OwV6fAb2zY6DIfYz1C1nQN79sspuMzntzkkyt7L0KRCke2sNHa6A-8J_WFagoDuAJ_zKywcqdq_cPd9DmwKUzGp-40l0rvTcT0oTxynpx8IDK3-1yhgqMGXhRbreHXrov4VhOZYYtd-DnSOaACA34YqMIv_w3xjNohyFd6h0PHIVdJXjgAR5stXj1N9mlcUF8lCwF2N8sgB9AfHIdI-_axyaUKvUY8M2V-urOp2vMAdXyPhPykUfvWD7YCOCvQy-gMQKRzg3tZWqcwo3i6tuvFn6IJ28XV5GomhMYS7dgga2LxhF6JEzFJXXpVhrWthllk3AjCt6xd_ndzvumUGkf4daOsCkJWqcgEjz-5xMPXQViI_aDAURGFwxq1PmlST5hWajZ2bw2CdT9oTI=s650-no


From https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-4CH-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648

Which contains this.

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Which, if it were to fit without risk of fouling, would be lovely. Unfortunately the four black relays and the two large capacitors risk fouling the rubber buffer which is free to move with the actuator rod. It's all just a bit close for my liking. So we need to do some juggling. De-solder the terminal blocks and the capacitors, then trim off the redundant edge of the circuit board.

Remove the jumper which you'll find on the three pins bottom right in the pic above.

Before you throw that strip away, use a fibre tip to mark the pcb ABC at the holes to which the terminal block was soldered.

I should add that as I was finishing the job I noticed that the aerial's soldered joint to that little stand-up pcb was loose. Bit of a dry joint, worth checking.

xHowrJwc1BRDVASza-PIaHtUew3gpe1RT3EgBK36CczxQeDy8gEIg1t--AUuYk_hT_nBNa5b0n43wgWGDLXnKAzVsQsT6uJR191TgWTzDPucQeLIMzaNCAmzw3HTrI0pbh8I267B-6WL0gG7-s5yXLtIwtsTNJxNk7Wzc16P5gXf_LbtEaNnppjpFnWXK6bvn4-bxa5iOgp-7xuuhzA1i2fsHAcRr78fpkxMm_Jn3uk9YJzHA0A19W9e27NNxvqQ59F-PpCfUA5fUZPdvQDd5LhuBonlUOJvMX062PMkQK-8F-dUn-Qmxc7UiDszAyjU-E_LmjVHb2wNgLFV-MRu9JeDuAswLvNiNufLbXrCk3_E5SFq4lgYtirLXS9LuJepkGq-vOwlRisCAQJZazuFPmoHJyAQoiEhaeHWIgjf05qEYCaJrsWRXOL99wHm8my43dMU78aGqpWJcmuLuXMguLx7dYoJ_Hfe43w7Z7vC9Q8QwirrLd0E2ZvB9o4MTW1rT_iK6gk_K64sHXh5FEi-i3aJAtJjj5JDnIPH0f-y3P8WNBTFs2tZJ8-TJeEvs3-ITR6e2HgHBiRDlmung5JbSS7cSddmbMQyX1N4FQwzdBr9lU8gYAd1tr2UYWYt7VOdeg3rMWB75x1-2Ce6yxtehiRkPswaWGg=w750-h563-no


Note that where the capacitors sat there are two half-shaded circles. That white bit is where the stripe on the capacitor should be. The capacitors are 16V µ470 available here

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Radial-Electrolytic-Capacitors-Various-Value-and-Voltage/111047335596?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=410231617696&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648

or, the first person to send me a pm will get the two spares I have here.

Insulate and bend the legs, then solder to the board (noting the stripe's orientation) as you can just about make out in the pic near the bottom (forgot to take one at this stage).

yRSNh1HGisZEuvID8cUlN6yc6e2Ng8hV41XD4jJWwYZXDfTjmyBG-Rf3y_OpLOEoYUbpjGPZafkOU3stM5ImP40EUnJlxKnjCg8e58MTaEHa75PVqxHsuVzQbYUAjQuH3uzEp23OM5EgfIi5sZ0SY73Jfh4v3bCzcp6gKI_TT8xEgIlunfoqdzml-ZPcy7wEczMi7diDEHZ4nFsUiGWyqfYKIMBpcXoEOM6RtWo9Fo4zCJmrSUJUx5EGrvdyVBIQwO8O5GlJHz8i79Lci5kxn6EdvmVZkLHEHnL3lkBB-59FJRwqcAqojYoUPP-vgrXJg-QLbiEqae0h2O1UBOQlCXDDG5V64VFfwCnEWV_POiswGYc8jZ1BCU3AoF7ntNNknWOY2ia_gl0l8CpSptblTIxX3oGj5VGdMew4pbE9STZkqmdvC0me9aR04PJnLDn9HRQz334TsNFkkntYHJ_fKUgdPZ7zMT0IdSoy5RU8uHUN6Ys2w5NecdlCMWONDmsgPIQWhEMYCeZt6AmndW13JvN0lQFNawhYSn0Auqyufhd2h6KAe_i6HHj9HQAlgm_4rqv6IXa6yRlDtQpGuK-6cKKrRlBTM5MM7Zo0hKDSdjjYv-7EuwMjZhq6ImfkZYp_70ZmFEryES800kuXpsBjWbmEAjrnt9Q=w750-h1000-no


Now, armed with the Simrad workshop manual (which seems to have disappeared from Simrad's site so pm me an email address for a copy), open up the casing - noting that a small ss rod lives in a hole near the motor's drive gear and will fall out and could confuse you horribly - and then remove the second part of the casing which houses the main pcb. Before you do anything else use some masking tape to hold the fluxgate pod to the pcb because you really don't want to damage those wires. Take the gasket off and give it a wash to in warm water to get the salt out.

I used the wires from an 8 core alarm cable to connect to the four switches (the tiller end pair of legs connect to one switch contact, the boat mount end pair connect to the other). So, for example, the green wire is connected to the right hand upper leg, the brown to the left lower.

-_xaM1LiGuCTfWTveCj6qYn3qMu9Dvls8OyzXLUHUvxJlFeDqLTVaAPsQOko_tEeQsiBXum-X9Qg75AACjAe82UKQBUlJOlQbN05WmOVfm-a3yE05le0vch2f9Qe5AMyCAgxuJpfAkB3xRU_a0xmaflxKdrmOea5Vax_FBxbC7ByClkS6pWjVFRv90DrD1x1Yl8eeNIBgjT24eP8poxpySNJx1itQhcNZpGd9o4PmVUfdwkEgzKG7J3k5U8fmnP1840QkqlGxkXiA62KX4o3mEekR5F_EInsLrmp-FJSJszalLv_mX4Szlfx0zgOhbPITJELxp7ThfpSs6-9TE017NAPcsq03V7b6j-JMbbq_Kg_5YsLuPkwSoivx2buXp7lz1aNUN8IwrxATQomnODwjPf3y6cea57RFCR-xX_xNSyu-1kpIM8JyHqUYW6PUGGv9qS0y8UsPA5D8RIum5UIVu97VG9R-1hZ_g2bNQOUO0WpNG2e-LVVfBWs9qv5Ya2zxdcHj2S7PBVJ4UIHTNiOrz2QfzC7zc0io989emv0Cv9TQIZeed7MYzIRxftJKbSFIZyLLZd79x2LwLA76gc5KGnrgCcj_1PAIbv6MrpcK6YJG6lN_ro6FS_WPa_FBs-_qtQfbZkMOF03tje0kSiHrNAmnMA2SFw=w948-h1263-no


Note the red circles. I glued the wires down onto the main pcb so that the two leds didn't get obscured, and that no wires could get trapped between the sockets in the top of the housing (below) and the two circled pins above.

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I made a 6mm hole at the bottom of the main pcb housing, and tried to find a grommet that would fit it to no avail. I freely admit that if I'd known that someone would ask me to write this I'd have made a better job of the silicon seal. Messy, but it works.

Next is to 'steal' 12v from the supply to the board - I just sliced off the insulation, staggering the two so that there's little chance of them touching each other. I also used slightly thicker wire for the power connection. Cover the joins with insulating tape.

Xx5qiYuoVttFdQu-BV9-oDscHv2mlk6fx5-gjS9B7Gboa-zVXnt6Bzy2lzb1Stq7_TiMxzELRcDyXM65QvmSiYJ_EnI5pnL8X21QktpJcN9e4eih0TI1nFXySVJ8d1eFfQxxkYxMqzxU_K_zD2YJJEd1_cuM1C4DJqtTi1Bjf9-f2fTZlKFccO9JcFo0_nA89x6RLZ_cb7XOB4wUd2TLFKO4PF89mFLpQCTZLRKq_HP4Ecl4zFydA_CscDvE6qPForaJeaHHzHQ6Wf15TUWemCggphXsOIQM2LVPjpRIo-oKsXDBPIKR54iIuE-uxJ6OAj8tIKI79DG9XKAquTq8IPm2bzXl808sHcSGmIgTVbKErKra3LVVPGW0ysEOLPGv-PhaX9EqqQRziGgSLwIe0tQh05-Yz1FNppPVC58T9fS43FrktMI56uF0HiNVrAk5Rc-UtajLC_5IMSDNuqlTCmBupdfvQqnL6hfZDSqszvgVVDlQ9I2JeHabOFpiF2ykGeN2U1SShSFGqM-KXRCujF71MdYMvMxdOeHcUnOk1N7U0bppzNPRchrAHLdViTA_glgjE8x29D-dBkzN2NPbrmE9oXks3YlbSl0-GzDXaAzlvQf_M9R5p9EQ8WLussLDSgCmAyS-Be8rjgkRTTd7T1Thqbtccg0=w750-h1000-no


Now you need to do some thinking and measuring with the remote control pcb temporarily fitted in its final location.

Button A on the keyfob controls the relay at the 12v supply end of the board (bottom in the pic below) and I chose that to be 'port'. I then made B = stbd, C = Tack and D = Standby.

If you choose to do the same, then looking at the pic below the Standby relay is at the top, then Tack, Starboard and Port at the bottom.

Cut and strip the wires to appropriate lengths so as to avoid too much bunching when it's all back together.

You'll be connecting to A and B that you marked on the PCB for each of the relays - the C holes aren't used.

Last bit of soldering is the two power wires into the two power supply holes at the bottom of the PCB. Red to +ve, black to -ve.

Now glue it down (CT1 pu glue worked for me).

2BKzRtun77Cg_0AogslBe6Gw6TR5-NrmYPWQUO0WqCbtjgg-EnvvCEKXsnLoenta8p8fvzV70LRLiPHtUMKlTlkVWVlja-TWKZ5ELh-bmVBdhEfxvQCykD_ucCAsdwIe1Y22gGmMTOFCUtoz8mC1FNLbxwkAIsQtp2eH_16SWW6kJumwfMsEBxUnIccGzhK3v6RhWz-lHw-Rl26ZLaS_nR-0IUFhvWhThUgaLDSItT-ynnwaeS-0wfxHn0isgqVzmnZVJ3wpFt-soDRvd6J1R_Zz1ujdRT-xFbEGVgS5o-k65iyS_26Q777NaiB4stieUT_ORykb3xsuUUmn7y9IrqBzMzDEEQESCxNf0NPRfTiTpa_vGHNAykBSSmlDZueSc7mBxwvJGCIBDVyIn3qcPyPTan9L7Lrp9-EmPz-f4Vl77srG4uJS6cADlqH6yEDwzKTeAuF4mndDJH9ou_PUvMOoBag-SwE4VpG2S1FIJDPGFV3IDQqDgWTEred8zSPV7SeF-2jVqUoh_nxQfg5ciKN88QqRkX7HiXV-UcNkySrs1zBmTTZ4TIcRM06m9nVKzhirJFPY4GJfEngLXHUuR5sOGdBEP0VOJuLK5wPVe_CBSSrYSJH7CgG1n3_wztk6fLWUpqSZMOoLrsjZdvmsoakLotp98yo=w750-h1000-no


Tuck the wires around that post so that they too don't get squashed when the opposing pillar comes down to meet it.

Lastly, I threaded the aerial wire up the side of the now replaced main pcb casing, and tacked it down with more CT1. It's the black wire that you may need to squint a bit to see.

AQvkEgFOUUcdS_lqrrKJi7_FQru_SsLiQEClVasx-9PciKGmD5mf-BNEwtFtCmO6jJl7fibYsNgpKMk-22BAg9UpCg1L9lvWdrLiexoCXXNT2Q0qT6cmvU-i011bq6B83KvXoC4sBEi9CEi0pItozHlnQ-uwex60KODokEHceKO3GnnqD2X2CACZojKywW0yhKNAVpQ6W9oT04goi4CKsxOtEdqeYHd2mVyzvUBzsk_hfgaxq6sYZSY0EJYI9mkhuvgigkULnvZwxqiSJ24zYGh80sQCgWmWf9MV3lm_R-WuvRSK9llV476VxsNwo1VxRr-suwubUo4HvhAYc5i-g9HGwsn5BwzNJ2QmVFnOGDuTO_jq5psog5qrvRmIQYxgfxPVLGkfqiem1Wr3_zsGxiaXOiNQxTOt1LX6kbSnb4Bl2i0G8YPYypwxN_laQ6kPsczzc-b1LaN85ydiV06s6OLk7i4DTbu_MbDXaCGg2ZSEsWndJDjEuIT8-QEWlwkstHYth6BNd6z9bCLpt9FoMwfFFTANUyAQ8hNr_GUXwmxB8Ypmgf8micuLKPLyFIGLoxGSqkLRcM_qfyYd7eGomsK3PGTyrG4zUqWRMlyWu9QU0tYi833I9STpFjXWBMi_Lzs1LeSrqqZ0m12rUVpKUsGnfEtTcig=w750-h1000-no


And here it is before putting the lid back on. Take your time re-seating the long gasket on the bottom half, I went round and round gently tapping it lightly until it all sat down perfectly - except at one point where that diagonal rib bottom right won't let it sit quite correctly. Before you finally close it, squeeze some silicon grease onto the actuator rod a suggested in the service manual.

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And don't forget that odd little stainless stiffening rod. I'd love to know why it's the length that it is. Bizarre.

A couple of notes.

I've just realised that if you solder your pairs of wires to the remote control pcb first then it'd be a lot easier to get the lengths right when you solder to the main pcb.

If before you finish the conversion you decide that you want to test the pilot with the case open to remind yourself how long a press you need to give the port or starboard button to get a 10 degree course change - press the micro switch on the main pcb. Don't do what I did and press the rubber button on the case - it's not touching the switch and won't work. Thinking you've somehow wrecked the pcb is not a good thing, no matter how much you later giggle at your own stupidity.
 

PabloPicasso

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You could likely start a cottage industry doing conversions for people less electronic savvy than you. Looks good, it'll be interesting to hear how durable the conversion proves to be.

It makes you wonder why simrad did not include thus as o/e?
 

anoccasionalyachtsman

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You could likely start a cottage industry doing conversions for people less electronic savvy than you. Looks good, it'll be interesting to hear how durable the conversion proves to be.

It makes you wonder why simrad did not include thus as o/e?

The TP22 and 32 were both sold with it as an option. The only reason that I upgraded from a TP10 was so that I could install it under cover and operate it remotely. Foolishly I didn't check that just because their website said that there was an optional wireless remote it didn't mean that they still made or sold one. After a bit of a 'conversation' they changed the website. but proper apology came there none.

I'd be happy to do it for carefully selected decent people who were prepared to accept some sensible caveats. But if Simrad found that they made no money - even offering them to the hoi polloii - I wouldn't expect many takers.
 

kicker86

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Nice work.

Do you have a picture of where to soldier the cables on the main board? And I did not quite get what the black cable on the side was?

Can you send me the service manual?
 

anoccasionalyachtsman

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Nice work.

Do you have a picture of where to soldier the cables on the main board? And I did not quite get what the black cable on the side was?

Can you send me the service manual?

No problem - there's a problem with the forum and the pic doesn't display. I did ask a mod to add it, but it didn't happen.

Send me an email address by pm and I'll send a copy of the manual.

This should be in the first post below the para starting 'Note the red circles'.

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anoccasionalyachtsman

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Oh, and... the black wire is the aerial for the remote, just led up where it doesn't get in the way but is as straight as poss the maximise range. Tacked down with glue.
 

jensrisskov

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Thank you!
You inspired me not only to become member of the YBW Forum, but to do likewise with a Simrad TP10 I have kept as a spare for the past 7 years.
My boat has a center cockpit with wheel steering and a Hydrovane self-steering on the stern, so the tiller pilot (an analog Autohelm 2000, - now stopped working after 40 years of excellent service) was attached directly to the small tiller of the Hydrovane. The Simrad TP10 does the same job quite well, but I have to leave the cockpit and climb across the aft cabin to push the buttons. Now that has come to an end!
P.S. Excuse me for the lack of capital letters in above. I'm Danish and we don't do that stuff anymore more.
 

Spyro

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some from the one fitted to my ST2000

This was the remote I bought on ebay 4 channel remote control | eBay There was a bit of butchery required on the casing to get it to fit but it is doable.
 

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anoccasionalyachtsman

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You'll need one of these.

SVoirtCJHs4SX8HM4jjUdLuNxbGUpA3Ce_PnO7IGyaF0RaYz3VybTOsxxKmvFrzHtlru3uC6iog8QGTbIZoFHbQ1rq9qQgNV1pHR8Ehvlb4mmY9CrLdsmuqxi_GrcFZ1t7L3UET7-ullIpfMhU4LBGJ-RekeXVjjEtXZh7JOEJiS-0QlKmptdi9q1yetliSYfCo7JDsBjWlU92wSwp9kTMNhasAeR7vGyjkaVXKvaQrkIWS2s64OwLOQWG45W2QF6lqsiDf3QNwdx94OwV6fAb2zY6DIfYz1C1nQN79sspuMzntzkkyt7L0KRCke2sNHa6A-8J_WFagoDuAJ_zKywcqdq_cPd9DmwKUzGp-40l0rvTcT0oTxynpx8IDK3-1yhgqMGXhRbreHXrov4VhOZYYtd-DnSOaACA34YqMIv_w3xjNohyFd6h0PHIVdJXjgAR5stXj1N9mlcUF8lCwF2N8sgB9AfHIdI-_axyaUKvUY8M2V-urOp2vMAdXyPhPykUfvWD7YCOCvQy-gMQKRzg3tZWqcwo3i6tuvFn6IJ28XV5GomhMYS7dgga2LxhF6JEzFJXXpVhrWthllk3AjCt6xd_ndzvumUGkf4daOsCkJWqcgEjz-5xMPXQViI_aDAURGFwxq1PmlST5hWajZ2bw2CdT9oTI=s650-no
Remote.jpg


From https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-4CH-Channel-100M-Wireless-Remote-Control-Relay-Switch-Transceiver-Receiver/131730091890?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648

Which contains this.

ImM2N3UZllO_7_lEGDclUilhhUo7D0LsgrNJtoVbWbpnXiZOoh1OUlHvENS3b9u50YhbBIUI-9saXRAIVP4GsFjmulpdWyn645y7EDtuvR-l4pIdPJ7X28DsbNbIRfovoIO6cguX8dciEHtm4vZ2DXfgMzgDgNZOXok2seyanJ6BD-FUCQdH4laTjn6e2r2l8VL-jJkGzbwsyEgmEPaeIz-zJYjO9_ZEs4Zg_3NDNRQM3B8idPl_xBYCj51TeUg-o3XVDeXZw9hVmmT1-yyWum4GJ7uL_QVEENw1IiUfovyCvtqwnMrebvB7oqDnM3mxju9Ju8jaXFhBXCWH8EdJV55AEjkCrZfhMq1Arw8z68u1jwHM0GhfUnQqC9DtyMQiwNaDgQN1z912ClEPJxRZIor9WM3tMdedhz785IrRmJpbKSoPVTjUOwjgIRcve0vzGf9kD37nFLAOecpG3NTkjdwMc1ykS04c2-6WTEsE7WYUvNV-IN17TDj3trrDUH_ipzidbJ36rLwO5TBDZsBd5XczO25302-TvlYrY4MvaOKrGDlfFfNhjsCMsBwqyekh0jDWfC4cgWztXDiww9Woaq3xzRa0V6cwTsq4GvXQt-o9Ej3F5LBK7EYGwKf1ME3m2spn89jTVNptwO3VlpwuzYkr4TetAy0=w750-h563-no
IMG_20190221_125505549_HDR.jpg

Which, if it were to fit without risk of fouling, would be lovely. Unfortunately the four black relays and the two large capacitors risk fouling the rubber buffer which is free to move with the actuator rod. It's all just a bit close for my liking. So we need to do some juggling. De-solder the terminal blocks and the capacitors, then trim off the redundant edge of the circuit board.

IMG_20190222_122735193.jpg

Remove the jumper which you'll find on the three pins bottom right in the pic above.

Before you throw that strip away, use a fibre tip to mark the pcb ABC at the holes to which the terminal block was soldered.

I should add that as I was finishing the job I noticed that the aerial's soldered joint to that little stand-up pcb was loose. Bit of a dry joint, worth checking.

xHowrJwc1BRDVASza-PIaHtUew3gpe1RT3EgBK36CczxQeDy8gEIg1t--AUuYk_hT_nBNa5b0n43wgWGDLXnKAzVsQsT6uJR191TgWTzDPucQeLIMzaNCAmzw3HTrI0pbh8I267B-6WL0gG7-s5yXLtIwtsTNJxNk7Wzc16P5gXf_LbtEaNnppjpFnWXK6bvn4-bxa5iOgp-7xuuhzA1i2fsHAcRr78fpkxMm_Jn3uk9YJzHA0A19W9e27NNxvqQ59F-PpCfUA5fUZPdvQDd5LhuBonlUOJvMX062PMkQK-8F-dUn-Qmxc7UiDszAyjU-E_LmjVHb2wNgLFV-MRu9JeDuAswLvNiNufLbXrCk3_E5SFq4lgYtirLXS9LuJepkGq-vOwlRisCAQJZazuFPmoHJyAQoiEhaeHWIgjf05qEYCaJrsWRXOL99wHm8my43dMU78aGqpWJcmuLuXMguLx7dYoJ_Hfe43w7Z7vC9Q8QwirrLd0E2ZvB9o4MTW1rT_iK6gk_K64sHXh5FEi-i3aJAtJjj5JDnIPH0f-y3P8WNBTFs2tZJ8-TJeEvs3-ITR6e2HgHBiRDlmung5JbSS7cSddmbMQyX1N4FQwzdBr9lU8gYAd1tr2UYWYt7VOdeg3rMWB75x1-2Ce6yxtehiRkPswaWGg=w750-h563-no
Note that where the capacitors sat there are two half-shaded circles. That white bit is where the stripe on the capacitor should be. The capacitors are 16V µ470 available here

Radial Electrolytic Capacitors / Various Value and Voltage | eBay

Insulate and bend the legs, then solder to the board (noting the stripe's orientation) as you can just about make out in the pic near the bottom (forgot to take one at this stage).

yRSNh1HGisZEuvID8cUlN6yc6e2Ng8hV41XD4jJWwYZXDfTjmyBG-Rf3y_OpLOEoYUbpjGPZafkOU3stM5ImP40EUnJlxKnjCg8e58MTaEHa75PVqxHsuVzQbYUAjQuH3uzEp23OM5EgfIi5sZ0SY73Jfh4v3bCzcp6gKI_TT8xEgIlunfoqdzml-ZPcy7wEczMi7diDEHZ4nFsUiGWyqfYKIMBpcXoEOM6RtWo9Fo4zCJmrSUJUx5EGrvdyVBIQwO8O5GlJHz8i79Lci5kxn6EdvmVZkLHEHnL3lkBB-59FJRwqcAqojYoUPP-vgrXJg-QLbiEqae0h2O1UBOQlCXDDG5V64VFfwCnEWV_POiswGYc8jZ1BCU3AoF7ntNNknWOY2ia_gl0l8CpSptblTIxX3oGj5VGdMew4pbE9STZkqmdvC0me9aR04PJnLDn9HRQz334TsNFkkntYHJ_fKUgdPZ7zMT0IdSoy5RU8uHUN6Ys2w5NecdlCMWONDmsgPIQWhEMYCeZt6AmndW13JvN0lQFNawhYSn0Auqyufhd2h6KAe_i6HHj9HQAlgm_4rqv6IXa6yRlDtQpGuK-6cKKrRlBTM5MM7Zo0hKDSdjjYv-7EuwMjZhq6ImfkZYp_70ZmFEryES800kuXpsBjWbmEAjrnt9Q=w750-h1000-no
IMG_20190226_085408186.jpg

Now, armed with the Simrad workshop manual (which seems to have disappeared from Simrad's site so pm me an email address for a copy), open up the casing - noting that a small ss rod lives in a hole near the motor's drive gear and will fall out and could confuse you horribly - and then remove the second part of the casing which houses the main pcb. Before you do anything else use some masking tape to hold the fluxgate pod to the pcb because you really don't want to damage those wires. Take the gasket off and give it a wash to in warm water to get the salt out.
 

anoccasionalyachtsman

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I used the wires from an 8 core alarm cable to connect to the four switches (the tiller end pair of legs connect to one switch contact, the boat mount end pair connect to the other). So, for example, the green wire is connected to the right hand upper leg, the brown to the left lower.

IMG_20190224_.jpg

Note the red circles. I glued the wires down onto the main pcb so that the two leds didn't get obscured, and that no wires could get trapped between the sockets in the top of the housing (below) and the two circled pins above.

1z3HlZMxyYRMwJXAQJTMrz6_rnZsdCa3DsocWAEx02SBNuuE415ckeITzcxlEk-s65bnQJRB8VSgZu86DCbk-FTQu-QCljefLLlnW-C0U-qyw3ydtZk152bgVomWKme1EcTPW6_x1h-JabrvkhL3Af-rk_JVd0g6Xdtf0MnmRbsPToja9Gz7ImPEz0637-VbPqvD9YiQ13ZE7950P8cyua-lwjFX9oBOyURSfAISpqLpvqvPwEttrzAVIgTxuzJXXpUftLg6wEl2CUTz6dMIUTaD46nAwX0HBjrIiWgRkSLtMG0THIQWFZp61DqbxIUf6BS4oV9nSuyUu9SxGXkvVwqEWmJVpQGJkeK8hjqhujDjYo4xwpmmqeY0jchjssm4nw5_4Jq2cTAfRm97bs4Y5yCS1zISJtKV8DA07GmIrROgnHSHhCWt-9VOuf7BHprVX89RPbdcmUfD8ndIvZqQGjUoAfsGgk21FTa2bo9KLTDz8BYpkt5JEiurHUPVsgEl0I09DOTd8hXRh6SaQpY9xKdk0dfpfF-iU3Y-lH_-b4jWu2stz30HNmL1oZ_cgRR7QKWKtqwf8nZ9iQ-7XmeELwfhBRXTG8czrGr0S1SMVB3nDPdGZiGB3_8EVgOsz9bjCC0UWwKLGtHBUd0HlG8SUIDnvvNiuII=w902-h1201-no
socketsmall.jpg

I made a 6mm hole at the bottom of the main pcb housing, and tried to find a grommet that would fit it to no avail. I freely admit that if I'd known that someone would ask me to write this I'd have made a better job of the silicon seal. Messy, but it works.

Next is to 'steal' 12v from the supply to the board - I just sliced off the insulation, staggering the two so that there's little chance of them touching each other. I also used slightly thicker wire for the power connection. Cover the joins with insulating tape.

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IMG_20190225_130905028.jpg

Now you need to do some thinking and measuring with the remote control pcb temporarily fitted in its final location.

Button A on the keyfob controls the relay at the 12v supply end of the board (bottom in the pic below) and I chose that to be 'port'. I then made B = stbd, C = Tack and D = Standby.

If you choose to do the same, then looking at the pic below the Standby relay is at the top, then Tack, Starboard and Port at the bottom.

Cut and strip the wires to appropriate lengths so as to avoid too much bunching when it's all back together.

You'll be connecting to A and B that you marked on the PCB for each of the relays - the C holes aren't used.

Last bit of soldering is the two power wires into the two power supply holes at the bottom of the PCB. Red to +ve, black to -ve.

Now glue it down (CT1 pu glue worked for me).

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IMG_20190226_110332098.jpg

Tuck the wires around that post so that they too don't get squashed when the opposing pillar comes down to meet it.

Lastly, I threaded the aerial wire up the side of the now replaced main pcb casing, and tacked it down with more CT1. It's the black wire that you may need to squint a bit to see.

And here it is before putting the lid back on. Take your time re-seating the long gasket on the bottom half, I went round and round gently tapping it lightly until it all sat down perfectly - except at one point where that diagonal rib bottom right won't let it sit quite correctly. Before you finally close it, squeeze some silicon grease onto the actuator rod as suggested in the service manual.

ocRAFvPCmxPdJXkNeJixFvUkR2VEoEGJynRwMW3E92Pk3VZHxMJKiupuqJXaACaJt3HsxRAuaP5Yv4eru8sWDUa_u3q5igqrYRczBqNKPFYRgv44asApJYOJh9Timqu3vhQyu5NNeYH5sBY8HRZfCIzsDsd8HOER48Yt5QdN9-jSM6q_ULTtvrziPn7WpF1SnKYxS28xtscnmJ-3R-sTumMa4g3AXqVwfohfhGNr5yh2f_E8qpGLL-JDIMy8oP2WjaM0uUlLsteOhHvZBLo82NbrZJAKptToz9r5WPsa8mFyRMMSQpzDoh1OP3q6_jcXTxMuMsNuF50oh0dfBSVrhh8alXXWsYBPDBh4Em7og3A2iDBFH4bnqBU4NpuiWLy3zkHeWvWwiw94WrZnhtY6O5gJxgtN9Ex6zwnEYgy2bO1tgO-F3_AUj1aDA44tAg_xdqh_NC3FLQXjuZxFUm4ThdjqD-Kbyk5CNcG27pUz90EfaEpLdl7IzoStLfsxhCKlIe5VGNfo9jx2hDM1UoCrMmUHj6_ukTdnxfJGDB8FjjGaNJAADRRzyObJa2pZkD5DJN_hVHqcdysMG5MHwD21p8tmpH3Yppfhi6Og2CCO384YOtSHSdovouh8XjMpyYoPWUPwHVoMfraCe4d5ekpfHemKwHADZuQ=w750-h1000-no
IMG_20190226_110406380.jpg

And don't forget that odd little stainless stiffening rod. I'd love to know why it's the length that it is. Bizarre.

A couple of notes.

I've just realised that if you solder your pairs of wires to the remote control pcb first then it'd be a lot easier to get the lengths right when you solder to the main pcb.

If before you finish the conversion you decide that you want to test the pilot with the case open to remind yourself how long a press you need to give the port or starboard button to get a 10 degree course change - press the micro switch on the main pcb. Don't do what I did and press the rubber button on the case - it's not touching the switch and won't work. Thinking you've somehow wrecked the pcb is not a good thing, no matter how much you later giggle at your own stupidity.
 

jensrisskov

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Wonderful how this thread has come to live again now with images. I have a question for both of you anoccasionalyachtsman and Spyro since You by now must have gained some experience using the remote control at sea. Has it performed well? Never made course changes on its own due to electrical interference from other sources?
I will attach a picture of my own. As You can see I got away with it in a bit simpler manner. When a pushbutton is pressed, it closes a path to ground (0V,
negative). So only one wire is needed.

.Image1.jpg
 

AngusMcDoon

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Wonderful how this thread has come to live again now with images. I have a question for both of you anoccasionalyachtsman and Spyro since You by now must have gained some experience using the remote control at sea. Has it performed well? Never made course changes on its own due to electrical interference from other sources?
I will attach a picture of my own. As You can see I got away with it in a bit simpler manner. When a pushbutton is pressed, it closes a path to ground (0V,
negative). So only one wire is needed.

.View attachment 83209
I'm in the process of putting together a wireless remote for my ST2000+ which sends appropriate commands via Seatalk for +-1 & +-10, so no butchery of the tiller pilot is needed. Do the Simrad pilots have a data interface that can be used in a similar way?
 

anoccasionalyachtsman

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Damn, never thought of that! I just followed Spyro's lead (my excuse)...

Mine hasn't had too much use, just a few inshore races single handed. I can manage the tacks without it, but gybing without was only a light airs possibility, with the remote it has been a doddle. I was a bit wary of what might happen with an inadvertent command, so did a couple of things. One was to leave it all set up and switched on at home, where there's much more chance of electronic interference, and the other was to try interfering with it using a different transmitter. I'm happy to report that nothing untoward was seen or heard to happen.
 

anoccasionalyachtsman

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I'm in the process of putting together a wireless remote for my ST2000+ which sends appropriate commands via Seatalk for +-1 & +-10, so no butchery of the tiller pilot is needed. Do the Simrad pilots have a data interface that can be used in a similar way?
I'm not sure that the TP10 does, but the 22 and 32 do. A future fun project is to learn that stuff and make a remote that works via the plug, but it's fairly low priority since it will have nothing to 'drive' it on the current (no electronics) boat - I'll just want a wandering wireless controller.

I'd love to see details of yours!
 
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