A cracking time - sorry, put it on wrong forum DUH!

EASLOOP

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It goes something like this. My wooden sloop had been ashore for some 11 years while I completed renovation work with the need to have paid work while keeping the family happy(ish). She is still devoid of furniture as I have yet to complete that aspect of the re-fit. however, my crowning glory of the hull repair was to completely clean out all the cotton and caulking in the entire hull, along with the deck seams (she has a teak laid deck) and recaulk her.
She went back in the water full time last July, coming out in November. and after a minor disaster, she took up very nicely. She went back into the water in early May this year and seems to be taking up more yet again (might be just re-aligning after a winter ashore). However, having worked on the boat for so long one would think I knew her inside out - but the other day I noticed a crack in a frame that I don't think I have seen before (could be wrong).
Anyway, I am a rank amateur gaining my knowledge from questioning those who know and reading books, mags (PBO of course) and etc. Now, I am aware that overcaulking can cause frames to crack if the caulking has been 'over done'. I read in various places the notes of those who would say "don't touch 'er seams lad lest you know wot you be a doin' cause many a boat 'as been lost from too much caulkin'.
Now I am a rank amateur, as I said, so have any other amateurs done their own caulking? and have they been successful? and is the job really only best done by a professional, lad"

I would very interested in your thoughts.

--------------------
Rgds
John

Optimism is a truly wonderful thing!
 
To answer in a not particularly useful way:

You can only really learn how to caulk properly by experience. The more you do, the more knowledge you gain on how much to put in, how much a boat is likely to shrink or swell as she comes out or goes back to the water, and how well the planks were fitted to start with. The pro's are good at it 'cos they usually get to learn whilst watched over by somone who's done it before. I reckon I've had the best part of 130 yrs experience peering over my shoulder from the three chaps who have taught, coached, hinted and encouraged me. And the boats have rnaged from less than an eighth seam, to big enough to put your finger through! Like most wooden boatbuilding, there is so much variety out there it takes many years to become knowledgable and experienced on most types you come across.

Keep an eye on the rest of the frames. Give them all a really good check now, so when you check them again, you'll know if there are any new cracks.

Glad to hear of another boat back on the water after a long time. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
Thanks for your input. I can appreciate the time it takes to get the 'knowledge'. I guess I have been lucky to have at least a couple of people who could comment on my work. The most satisfying was when a chap working at the other end of the yard said he could hear the hull 'ring' as the caulking progressed. Anyway, I will be keeping a close look at the frames over the weeks. The crack I mentioned probably was already there as the break did not look 'clean', i.e. I could not see new wood at the break.
 
Can you describe the symptoms more precisely?

Where exactly is the break? Which frame and whereabouts on it?

I ask because we've got a cracked frame, found and pointed out by Martin Evans, who advised keeping an eye on it. It's a tension fracture in a grown frame, just above the end of the floor arm, and I am sure that I know when and where I did it - I put her ashore inadvertently trying to get on Felixstowe posts and she grounded and lay over on the hard. I think its a tension fracture, due to trying to "straighten out" in the turn of the bilge.

If the seams are really standing very proud each year, there might be a caulking issue, but not if she us just squeezing the putty a bit, which seems to me to be normal.
 
Re: Can you describe the symptoms more precisely?

Did you put sikaflex in the seams or putty? After 11 years ashore applying putty would help to minimise any stresses resulting from take up movement because it stays soft, whereas sikaflex sets hard quickly and could possibly result in frames cracking due to the stress. Although, in my experience, cracks can also be produced by fastenings which are overtightened or become overtightened after take up.
 
Re: Can you describe the symptoms more precisely?

The crack is halfway down the inside of the hull an the stbd side. It is the sort of crack that could have been made by falling over and while I am thinking about it the crack does appear rather dirty, i.e. got dust and stuff in the crack. The boat has not fallen over so I thought that it may have been caused by over zealous caulking. I guess it could have been caused by drying out. I tend to agree that it would no doubt take a very hard mallet to drive cotton so hard so as to cause these problem. There are other cracks that a previous owner has 'sistered'.

Joliette: I use linseed oil putty and powered lead for the caulking so there should be no problems there.

I will keep a lookout.
 
Re: Can you describe the symptoms more precisely?

A cracked frame can also be caused by overzealous shoring. A surprising amount of force can be generated by some numpty with a mallet bashing a few wedges.

Re. comments on the hull "ringing". This was pointed out to me when I did Mariposa's caulking. Once it all starts getting tight the entire hull stiffens up and she rings like a bell (okay, a wooden gong). How much to harden up is something that can only come with experience though. I don't think you can measure it in any meaningful way. I think I got mine a bit on the light side.
 
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