80W Solar panel arrived with a 'crease'

Refueler

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I bought an 80W solar panel, that is flexible to a limited degree ... its to replace the panel on my 38 and needs to fit the slightly curved deck.

When walking away from Courier van back to house - I noted that the package had a slight curve to it ... and slight damage along edges...

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I open the box and the panel has a crease in the back with a definite curve to the panel ....

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There is no sign of damage to the cells on other side - just the bend ...

I put a meter on the cable with panel propped against the wall .... 100% cloud cover - so no clear sun ... and meter read 15.8V ...

Not sure what to do - as it appears that even if dead straight / flat - bending to suit deck will likely cause similar ...

Do I contact seller or try it considering it does show 15.8V in a dismal total cloud cover day ?
 
You must return it. It could suffer premature failure. I recently ordered and received replacement 2 x 80W panels and the retailers warned me to check them for damage after receipt. I found each box had been prenetrated by a mechanical claw. I returned them and the retailer has supplied two new ones.
 
When I bought originally, the panels had a one year warranty. Now it is 3 years. It is still new technology. I asked Gorilla if they could recommend a clear glue to re-fix the EFTE laminate and after referral to their back-room chaps, said 'there was nothing they could recommend'.

P1100246 by Roger Gaspar, on Flickr

The damaged panel is still working fully - at the moment. The one to the right is 'undamaged' but fails intermittently. Note the delaminated panel has two distinct lines diagonally. I think when the theft occurred on one night 4 years ago, I think the life raft (in case) was dragged over it and that might have prompted the delamination.
 
Just be careful of using a damaged flexi panel. They've been known to go on fire when they start to arc. I've heard of it happening with panels mounted on top of biminis. Sunbrella is really quite flammable...
 
Just be careful of using a damaged flexi panel. They've been known to go on fire when they start to arc. I've heard of it happening with panels mounted on top of biminis. Sunbrella is really quite flammable...

Some truly awful panels courtesy of CraigSolar

Lasted about 2 months before this happened
Lucky it didn’t burn the boat

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I accepted partial refund and keep it ... I know I should have returned it - but I hate the hassle for 40 odd euros - I can use it as it does give 15.8v ....

Wondering if there's a way to limit light onto specific small area of the panel and meter it - see if any area of panel is not working ?
 
I accepted partial refund and keep it ... I know I should have returned it - but I hate the hassle for 40 odd euros - I can use it as it does give 15.8v ....

Wondering if there's a way to limit light onto specific small area of the panel and meter it - see if any area of panel is not working ?
If the panel has all of its cells in series, damage or shading that affects one cell will essentially kill the whole panel. This is usually how smaller panels are built. Yours mighty need big enough to have more than one string of cells, if you're lucky.
 
Solar panels should be a long term investment, unless you buy cheap and nasty, as this thread demonstrates. The 100W panels shown in post #6 (shocking quality) are listed on their website at £75, good quality 100W panels start at around £200.

Refuelers "80W" panel was peanuts, but it's nowhere near big enough for an 80W panel. Plus, open circuit voltage of 15.8V is low, it should be close to 24V.

I only fit panels from Photonic Universe, in the last 10 years i have had one fail, at 3 years old. Buy cheap, buy twice (or more) ;)
 
I hear what y'all say ...

My idea at present is to replace the paneol that is obviously 'tired' on the 38 with this panel ... and then spend time sourcing a good panel to replace it ...

The panel is from a French Dealer as can be seen in the link ... (another thread) ... so they should be selling CE spec'd ...

I have a suspicion that flexibility is only supposed to be in longitudinal - not transverse .. which this panel has been subjected to.
 
OK .. lets put aside the cheap crap factor ....

The panel has separate + and - PV connectors .... My original panel has a single cable that goes through the deck. I need to connect this two cable panel to the single through deck cable ...

I'm thinking to cut the through deck cable above deck ... into a small junction box ... cut the long leads of the panel and feed them into the junction box to connect up. I would use gold contact XT60 connectors. Giving me quick connect / disconnect but viable connection.

The question is what junction box to use ... and would it be better to place it directly over the through deck point.
 
Can I suggest a swan neck. I didn't want to have any more connections than necessary. On our boats, every connection is a weakness. I fitted a pair of swan necks - one for power, the other for antenna.
 
OK .. lets put aside the cheap crap factor ....

The panel has separate + and - PV connectors .... My original panel has a single cable that goes through the deck. I need to connect this two cable panel to the single through deck cable ...

I'm thinking to cut the through deck cable above deck ... into a small junction box ... cut the long leads of the panel and feed them into the junction box to connect up. I would use gold contact XT60 connectors. Giving me quick connect / disconnect but viable connection.

The question is what junction box to use ... and would it be better to place it directly over the through deck point.
The existing cable looks very small for an 80W panel. Just fit a decent deck gland, for example Horizontal Cable Seal Power Boat

Cut the connectors off of the new panel, feed the cables through the gland and make the connection inside the boat, using suitably rated cable to the controller and from there to the batteries.
 
The existing cable looks very small for an 80W panel. Just fit a decent deck gland, for example Horizontal Cable Seal Power Boat

Cut the connectors off of the new panel, feed the cables through the gland and make the connection inside the boat, using suitably rated cable to the controller and from there to the batteries.
That was my thought - but the existing cable is seriously sealed through the deck !! Trying to not disturb it ...

But point taken.
 
Had the same wiring problem with my recently bought solar panel replacement. I popped the cover off the new panel's junction box and fitted my own twin wire into it. The sealing of the new panel's original single wires was non-existent! I smeared the whole lot in Sikoflex to keep the water out. It looks a bit rough, but has worked OK for two seasons, now.
 
Had the same wiring problem with my recently bought solar panel replacement. I popped the cover off the new panel's junction box and fitted my own twin wire into it. The sealing of the new panel's original single wires was non-existent! I smeared the whole lot in Sikoflex to keep the water out. It looks a bit rough, but has worked OK for two seasons, now.

I haven't looked closely at the junction box ... but I read some reviews that questioned its waterproofing ...

I will have a better look and may end up doing as you ... I have a large container of Corrosion X ... so water protecting will not be an issue.

Maybe I'll be able to use the existing cable into the box from old panel ??
 
I haven't looked closely at the junction box ... but I read some reviews that questioned its waterproofing ...

I will have a better look and may end up doing as you ... I have a large container of Corrosion X ... so water protecting will not be an issue.

Maybe I'll be able to use the existing cable into the box from old panel ??
The B in PBO stands for Boat not Bodge ;)
 
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