3D printing sail chafe protectors

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I reckon I am not only one who thinks spreader boots and so on are nice - but pricey ? The other fact for me of course is Latvia is not the best served for yottie items.

So how to protect that lovely genny from the spreader ends ...

Depending on size of boat / stays ... these give very good service by 'freely rolling' on the wire ..

The best I find is the "sail_chaffe_protector" - its beefier and can withstand the rigours more.

Simple to print .. free to download from Thingiverse ..

Clip together onto the stay - tie-wrap to lock two together.

You can even print in colour of choice .. ie red - port .. green -stbd .. or just plain white or black as I have ..

This is PRACTICAL Boat Owner !!
 

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That depends on what plastic you use. PLA (which is the very commonly used 3D printer plastic) doesn't do well with moisture or UV. However, if printed in ABS they should be fine for many years...

The protectors I am replacing last years .... they lasted well - but one was broken when we re-positioned mast on deck for lift out.

The other one even though they were the lighter ones in PLA was fine .. so sign of UV / water degradation.

ABS requires use of fume extraction .. which I don't have yet. An alternative that is stronger is PETG .... which I have, but yet to use.
 
HI,

I have just purchased the chaff reducers (probably not the right word) that fit into the mast to stop the lines getting chaffed that run inside the mast. Has anyone 3d printed those? Mine are from Z spars. They are plastic and held on by 1 rivet

Cheers

Karl
 
HI,

I have just purchased the chaff reducers (probably not the right word) that fit into the mast to stop the lines getting chaffed that run inside the mast. Has anyone 3d printed those? Mine are from Z spars. They are plastic and held on by 1 rivet

Cheers

Karl

cannot find on Z Spars site .. do you have a link to them ??
 
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This ?

Problem here is to use a material tyhat can resist the chafe of rope on it. Most items like this are Glass Filled Nylon .. (GFN ... GRN) ... to give the strength and resiliance.

PETG would probably be ok but not as long lasting.

Will look online ... interesting,,
 
I used 75mm plastic trolley wheels with a 6mm axle hole and rubber tyres.
I removed the tyre, cut a notch in the wheel to get it onto the shroud, repaired the notch with polyester resin and finally threaded the tyre over the shroud top fitting and onto the onto the tyre.
That was in 1995 and they are still there.
We didn't have 3D printing in those days...
 
Thanks for the pointer on the sail chafe protector wheels.

I find PETG is as easy to print as PLA. Wipe the print bed with glass cleaner (not alcohol) and adjust your ‘live Z’ if using a textured plate instead of a smooth plate and you are good to go. Do give it a go.

Using PETG to fix a broken bracket on a fender holder I find that it has survived the British weather for several seasons so far.
 
I have 5 types of bed ... 3 with heat .. 2 without.

Magnetic (heated)
Clear Glass (heated)
Black Ender Glass (heated)

Clear glass (unheated)
+ with Painters tape if needed (unheated)

Based on Print-Rite Colido without heater .... Ender 3 Pro with heater.

Will look at PETG .. I have a spool.
 
I have two 3D printers, one small and one normal size. For outdoor things, I print in ASA. It is UV and weather resistant. It is easy to print.

For the bed I have flexible metal plate which comes off the magnetic base from Buildtak. I covered it with PEI sheet and it works brilliantly.
For my small printer, I bought Ziflex for the bed which also works well

Tudorsailor
 
My Colido - is quite simple and is suitable to expand working size and height. Based on rods and end holders, The vertical drives are standard threaded rod so I can source easily and cut to required height. Belts are not fixed loops - so I can buy lengths and also cut to suit.

Print-Rite-CoLiDo-Print-Rite-DIY-3D-Printer.jpg


But the Ender of course is a much more solid frame style.
 
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