3D printed items and list is growing

[Refueler]

A couple or more years ago - I posted about printing sail proterctors to clip onto the cap shrouds. They sit resting on the cross trees or spreaders if you prefer that term. They are free to revolve and are very effective.

Since then I have 3D printed curtain rod holders ... basically a triangular mount that rod can pass through.

Silva bulkhead compass cover - the square plate variety.

Nasa Clipper display cover

Hand wheel replacement for forehatch.

Sun hood for tablets / plotter (size can be adjusted to suit).

Lowrance mount

Mushroom vent cowl

Underdeck locker edging surrounds

These are just examples .. there are others ...

There will be additions of course as things need replacing on my boats ....

If anyone is interested in the STL files for their printer (all can be accommodated on the usual 200 x 200 x 180 printers) ... then let me know and I can email the STL files and suggested settings or GCode if wanted.

 

[sailoppopotamus]

What material do you use for this, particularly the outdoor components? ASA? Does colour make a difference regarding UV resistance?

 

[jakew009]

What material do you use for this, particularly the outdoor components? ASA? Does colour make a difference regarding UV resistance?

PETG will last a very long time and is as easy to print as PLA

 

[Bouba]

A couple or more years ago - I posted about printing sail proterctors to clip onto the cap shrouds. They sit resting on the cross trees or spreaders if you prefer that term. They are free to revolve and are very effective.

Since then I have 3D printed curtain rod holders ... basically a triangular mount that rod can pass through.

Silva bulkhead compass cover - the square plate variety.

Nasa Clipper display cover

Hand wheel replacement for forehatch.

Sun hood for tablets / plotter (size can be adjusted to suit).

Lowrance mount

Mushroom vent cowl

Underdeck locker edging surrounds

These are just examples .. there are others ...

There will be additions of course as things need replacing on my boats ....

If anyone is interested in the STL files for their printer (all can be accommodated on the usual 200 x 200 x 180 printers) ... then let me know and I can email the STL files and suggested settings or GCode if wanted.

Can we see some of these things ?

 

[Kaiqr]

You could put them on Thingiverse - Digital Designs for Physical Objects

There's some boaty bits on there, for example search "Winch handle"

 

[Refueler]

I use PLA mostly - but PETG would be a more durable item.

ABS would be - but it needs a fume cupboard ....

Images ? Would need to access my workshop computer to upload ....

Thingiverse - yes I could upload there - but thought I would offer direct avoiding people having to search.

Watch this space !!

 

[Refueler]

All adjustable in size.

 

[Refueler]

The Hatch wheels were inspired by the new boat having one missing from the forehatch .... the threaded rod and latch piece were there - but no wheel and nut to secure.

Near all the above items - I printed numerous times adjusting until I achieved size required. The hatch wheel - bottom row second from left next to Lowrance mount - is ready to accept a 10mm nut squeezed into it ... no glue needed. This fits most hatch threads ...

The sail protectors are in halves that you basically click into place above the spreaders and they slide easily ... sitting there and revolving with sail as you sheet in etc. Even though PLA - mine have lasted 3 years and still in good condition.

The clipper cover - I adjusted to suit my square faced Silva bulkhead compasses ... but can be adjusted to suit most square faced displays.

Curtail rod holder is for 9mm wood / alloy dowel to pass through with provision for locking screw if needed. They can be glued or screwed to surface.

Windex arrows are max size for the standard 220mm prine bed - so smaller than original ... but I have found that its still large enough to observe from cockpit. I do have a sectional one as well that can be printed as large as needed if anyone wants - but then it needs a small CF rod or BBQ skewer to join the parts. There are other small parts for this windex - such as the hub - not shown in picture but would be included in any files asked for.

I am always interested in any other items others may have created / modified .... so please PM me if you have anything ... or want anything ...

 

[Refueler]

I downloaded a little gem of a sailboat and it now sits on top of my desktop computer ......

 

[Refueler]

This is the remaining original hatch fastener ...

Here are my replacements 3D printed replacing lost and the above ...

10mm nuts pressed in - so the wheels are secure - not relying on threaded plastic.

 

[slawosz]

10mm nuts pressed in - so the wheels are secure - not relying on threaded plastic.

OMG, late evening, a bit of lager and I just got an epiphany on how to solve eye nuts that I need so badly but I won't be paying 1.2 for the piece! Thank you for the inspiration

 

[slawosz]

Let me show you my 3d prints - all designed by myself.

Plastimo hand bearing compas bracket.

Bracket installed on the boat - with off-duty crew on the picture.

Toilet hinges - dimensions exactly as original, survived lot of use I think those are much stronger then the originals.


Cable gland.

Hailyard organisers.

Very useful hooks.

Microphone holder.

Cheap vesa mount - chartplotter interface. Chartplotter has quite complicated shape and the result is very nice.

Vesa mounts. Could use shorter screws but as usual, I was 'on the clock'.

Handy pocket - most of the time used to store phones etc.

 

[thinwater]

Very cool. I need to learn this. But ...

• I made a mount for a chart plotter from aluminum. Much stronger than the original plastic one, which of course, cracked. Invulnerable to UV.
• Knobs with nuts. I've ordered those a few times over the years. About $2.50 from many suppliers. Probably stronger.
• Line hangers. I really like the ones from United Yacht Manufacturing. No holes required (they attached with a big patch of UHB tape). I couldn't design anything better.

When I make things using more traditional methods, I have my choice of materials. Metals. Glass or carbon fiber. Any plastic I want. Combinations. I feel like some of these were a case of "everything looks like a nail if all you have is a hammer."

But I see the future. Traditional methods take a big shop and a larger skill set.

 

[Neeves]

Here in Oz, or at least Sydney, local public (or main? public) libraries have installed 3D printers to encourage use of the technology. Some libraries also have employees who have some skills in software development.

There are also commercial 3D printing services - but public libraries appeal to my wallet. Its worth asking around

Jonathan

 

[colind3782]

A tech head friend told me last week that 3D printing in metal is becoming available too. If so it could revolutionise ball and socket joints, i.e. hips and shoulders etc.

 

[Halo]

Brilliant thread. Many thanks to all who have contributed. My son has two 3d printers and I have never used them. Can anyone recommend an easy way in to the software and programming?

 

[Daydream believer]

I downloaded a little gem of a sailboat and it now sits on top of my desktop computer ......

How long to print one about 35 ft long?-
On second thoughts , don't bother. It will not fit on my mantlepiece

 

[Refueler]

Brilliant thread. Many thanks to all who have contributed. My son has two 3d printers and I have never used them. Can anyone recommend an easy way in to the software and programming?

There is no real easy way to do all yourself ... but it really is worth it.

But many items on Cults ... Thingiverse etc. online - are not only the stl base files - but also the gcodes containing ther printer commands for temp / layer height / width etc.

Really it can be simply download - switch on .. insert card and press go. Or it can be a full on 3D design exercise and stages between.

Internet is loaded full of Youtube vids / articles / support etc. to help anyone to 3D print.

One thing I do recc'd - if you buy a printer - get a recognised brand such as Creality or other known ... there are plenty of 'strange name' machines out there that work - but have little follow up from other users.

I have a DIY direct feed printer ... I'm literally on my own with that one for maintenance / spares .... but my other is a Creality Ender 3 Pro - which is so well served online - its like the Ford Escort of printers ... just keeps on going with easy to get parts / spares / advice etc.

 

[slawosz]

Very cool. I need to learn this. But ...

• I made a mount for a chart plotter from aluminum. Much stronger than the original plastic one, which of course, cracked. Invulnerable to UV.
• Knobs with nuts. I've ordered those a few times over the years. About $2.50 from many suppliers. Probably stronger.
• Line hangers. I really like the ones from United Yacht Manufacturing. No holes required (they attached with a big patch of UHB tape). I couldn't design anything better.

When I make things using more traditional methods, I have my choice of materials. Metals. Glass or carbon fiber. Any plastic I want. Combinations. I feel like some of these were a case of "everything looks like a nail if all you have is a hammer."

But I see the future. Traditional methods take a big shop and a larger skill set.

Almost my prints are done from PETG (almost like plastic bottles). Its UV resistant. And they are non-structural, or the loads are small. I am looking into starting using carbon fiber to strengthen the prints for more challenging use - for example, one of my projects is self-steering gear. But it will have to wait.
The big advantage of 3d printing is that when the project is ready you just sit and wait. Great if you have busy work and life And you live in 'tiny' house or flat close to London, which has size of modern US truck
I would love to have a proper shop one day - but for this you need space, some money, and the worst - time. 3D printers give me the freedom to play engineer, otherwise, I could not make it I am afraid. And for many uses the prints are strong enough. The key is to be diligent where you can use it and where you can't.
The other big usage is to make templates - for palm routers, for drilling etc - saves a lot of time.

In my view, 3d printing slowly introduces revolution in manufacturing, similar to the one (albeit smaller scale) that internet created to the world. Everyone can manufacture pretty much anything (again, most of cases it would be prototype quality) using 200 GBP machine. Robot arms, drones, tools etc.

It is a sailing forum, so I won't get to details, but I do plenty of 3D printing for different projects - e.g. for home - some spice racks, bits and bobs to improve furniture, storage, tools etc. And for my other hobby - aviation - I am experimenting with building custom simulator controls.

Just for the record, I have 2 Ender 3 3d printers. One Max (bit bigger) and one Pro. The second one I bought used - they require a little bit of tweaking sometimes and person I bought it from gave up (I got it like for 70 quid).

Brilliant thread. Many thanks to all who have contributed. My son has two 3d printers and I have never used them. Can anyone recommend an easy way in to the software and programming?

I would start with this video:

It shows many aspects of Fusion 360, which has a free version. There is plenty of Fusion 360 videos on YouTube. And turning design to printable file takes just minute or two - I am pretty sure your son can help you, or if you will have your design - you can PM me.

PS.
Some sailing oriented video:

 

[Refueler]

I have a 12m x 8m workshop - divided into 8m x 8m workplace ... and 4m x 8m 'bar + TV + music area' ....

I can get away and have a beer .... !!

Before anyone asks ... I have over 70 ready to go models ranging from tiny to large ... electric / glow fuel / gasoline and glider. Boats - sail and power - cars ... drones ....