ClaytonDJ
Well-Known Member
Hi knowledgeable members - I’m hoping there’s someone on here who is familiar with the electric panels and wiring on Fairline Targas from 1994,
I’ve finally got my Targa 38 onto my berth after having the engines fixed.
Spending my first week onboard - and bemused by the switch control panel, unmarked helm switches, and wiring of lights (stern, steaming and anchor).
I have the boat connected to shore power, and this is charging the battery charger which trickle charges the boats 5 batteries. DC volts meter showing charging at 13 volts - all good so far. As I switch on different cabin lights and plug things into the dockets - the draw is visible on the DC Amps meter. So far so good - trouble is the main panel has the old push in/pop out buttons for numerous electrical items. Most work but some are ‘in’ with no way of getting them out. Should any be permanently on?
Also, lens was broken on the stern light (back to back unit wired with the streaming light) so decided to buy a new unit ( and upgrade the 10w halogen bulbs with new LED bulbs). Went to replace the unit thinking I could copy existing connections - but found feed cable was three core at the connectior but only 2 were being used to connect to the stern and steaming lights - one of the wires was connected to one side of the bulb in each unit - and a short wire was connected to the other side of the bulb and screwed to the casing screws (much like an domestic earth connection at home). When wired and switches on at the helm - they came on initially - but when I switched on nav lights (different switch on the helm) they came on but the stern/steaming lights went out! After this, nav lights work, but the stern/steaming light won’t illuminate at all (even when I turn the nav lights off).
Aware in Spain that positive and negative are interchangeable - but am worried that I’ve only got 2 wires feeding the lamps in both units (presumably one positive and one negative), and the units being earthed to the back-to-back casings. Sorry for ramble - I’ll upload some photos when I get back to the UK in early May to help explain all this.
Managing after a fashion, but any knowledge or experiences of wiring lamps using only 2 cores, or keeping push in buttons permanently in, would be most welcome.
I’ve finally got my Targa 38 onto my berth after having the engines fixed.
Spending my first week onboard - and bemused by the switch control panel, unmarked helm switches, and wiring of lights (stern, steaming and anchor).
I have the boat connected to shore power, and this is charging the battery charger which trickle charges the boats 5 batteries. DC volts meter showing charging at 13 volts - all good so far. As I switch on different cabin lights and plug things into the dockets - the draw is visible on the DC Amps meter. So far so good - trouble is the main panel has the old push in/pop out buttons for numerous electrical items. Most work but some are ‘in’ with no way of getting them out. Should any be permanently on?
Also, lens was broken on the stern light (back to back unit wired with the streaming light) so decided to buy a new unit ( and upgrade the 10w halogen bulbs with new LED bulbs). Went to replace the unit thinking I could copy existing connections - but found feed cable was three core at the connectior but only 2 were being used to connect to the stern and steaming lights - one of the wires was connected to one side of the bulb in each unit - and a short wire was connected to the other side of the bulb and screwed to the casing screws (much like an domestic earth connection at home). When wired and switches on at the helm - they came on initially - but when I switched on nav lights (different switch on the helm) they came on but the stern/steaming lights went out! After this, nav lights work, but the stern/steaming light won’t illuminate at all (even when I turn the nav lights off).
Aware in Spain that positive and negative are interchangeable - but am worried that I’ve only got 2 wires feeding the lamps in both units (presumably one positive and one negative), and the units being earthed to the back-to-back casings. Sorry for ramble - I’ll upload some photos when I get back to the UK in early May to help explain all this.
Managing after a fashion, but any knowledge or experiences of wiring lamps using only 2 cores, or keeping push in buttons permanently in, would be most welcome.
