12volt tools

[single]

I have loads of 12volt tools with u/s batteries so plan is to add a 12v plug of some sort to each gadget then use a 10m 230v extension lead adapted with 12v plugs to enable use anywhere on the boat.Question is - would voltage drop be a prob with 10m of domestic cable and what type of plugs to use (cigar type are rubbish).Any suggestions?

 

[morgandlm]

I have done exactly this with an old Bosch drill/driver. The battery was actually 9v and replacements were almost as much as a new drill! I find it works well on 12v although it has not been used a lot. I use a two pin Bulgin plug and socket.
Morgan

 

[pampas]

why not put some battery crockodile clips on?, save a lot of trouble.

 

[prv]

why not put some battery crockodile clips on?, save a lot of trouble.

Save? More like add trouble, when you have to open up the battery locker, undo the straps, and open the box lid every time you want to use the thing. Rather than just plugging into a handy socket.

Pete

 

[single]

why not put some battery crockodile clips on?, save a lot of trouble.

Not if you see where the battery bank is!

 

[John the kiwi]

I have done this with a makita drill.
I used cable off a vacuum cleaner that had a recoil system. This cable has only two cores and is very flexible as compared to most extension lead cables. I haven't measured voltage drop but the drill is very usable and useful to have on board.
I use cigar lighter plug. I know they are rubbish but my boat has a couple of sockets with hefty supply side wiring already fitted. They seem to work ok. There is nowhere on the boat i cant reach except the top of the mast.

 

[SAMYL]

I have done the same using about a 5m lead and cigar sockets.

No appreciable voltage drop and the sockets work fine and a lot easier than fiddling with clips etc.

 

[single]

I have done this with a makita drill.
I used cable off a vacuum cleaner that had a recoil system. This cable has only two cores and is very flexible as compared to most extension lead cables. I haven't measured voltage drop but the drill is very usable and useful to have on board.
I use cigar lighter plug. I know they are rubbish but my boat has a couple of sockets with hefty supply side wiring already fitted. They seem to work ok. There is nowhere on the boat i cant reach except the top of the mast.

That sounds just the job.Maybe i will pop into the tip and find one suitable.

 

[oldsaltoz]

Converted a 12 volt drill by soldering the cable to the old battery contacts then covered with an epoxy putty, the lead will the top of the mast is only domestic figure 8 cable.

That was about 10 years + ago and still going strong.

Good luck and fair winds.

 

[single]

Now its a case of what tails to put on each gadget.Maybe the black & decker in line type of thing but smaller and cheap.
These? http://www.amazon.co.uk/ORANGE-CONN...SUKW/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1360667019&sr=8-8

 

[Norman_E]

Cigar lighter plugs and sockets are not the best designs. Look in any caravan shop for 12volt plugs & sockets. There are two main types, one with angled pins and IMHO a better type with unequal size pins. This webpage shows both types. http://www.caravanparts.co.uk/electrics-plugs-sockets-switches-c-53_238_260.html

 

[alahol2]

Cigar lighter plugs and sockets are not the best designs.

I've got several of these around the boat... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycle-Marine-Waterproof-12-Volt-Accessory-socket-/120744951105?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item1c1cf5bd41
With matching lock-in plugs on most of my pluggable equipment... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-Motorcycle-Marine-Quality-Twist-n-Lock-Plug-/290714253493?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_BoatEquipment_Accessories_SM&hash=item43afeb78b5

They will run up to 15A and they prevent the spring on the plug from forcing it out of the socket which always seems to happen with the normal plugs.

 

[little shack]

they look a good way of connecting on the supply side how do you connect to the old drill etc as I have a few old 12v tools laying about.

 

[single]

Ive gone for the flymo type connectors so each gadget just has a male 'tail' then a flexi recoil wire to battery bank via switch and fuse.Other bonus is if you look on ebay the tools with no battery are very cheap (as the batts are the expensive bit)

 

[Dave_Seager]

I would strongly advise against using plugs intended for mains electricity. There would always be the risk that someone would connect 230v into an appliance that is only designed and insulated for 12v.

Also, however you connect to your battery, please put a fuse in the circuit.

 

[prv]

I would strongly advise against using plugs intended for mains electricity. There would always be the risk that someone would connect 230v into an appliance that is only designed and insulated for 12v.

+1

I inherited what looked like a normal inspection lamp with one of those 2-pin lawnmower plugs on the end of the cable. Thought I'd use it to illuminate my shed, this being before I properly installed power and lighting there. Plugging it in produced a horrific bang and flash - post mortem afterwards found the base of a bulb marked "12v" - the rest of the bulb had exploded. I didn't even realise you could get 12v bulbs that fitted standard-sized bayonet sockets.

Fortunately this design of lamp had a clear plastic screen rather than just a wire cage, or I'd have got a faceful of shattered bulb.

Pete

 

[single]

Very good point.Done now so i'll mark them very clearly.

 

[lumphammer]

I took the battery container apart, removed the rechargeable batteries then soldered the flying lead cables to the old + and - terminals - refit battery case then it will work with any of your 12v tools that match that battery type.

 

[CreakyDecks]

I have opened the battery case on two portable drills and in both cases found that the case actually contained a set of bog standard rechargeable batteries, wired in series, that were very easy to obtain. Soldering wires to batteries is easy with a decent soldering iron, then I just glued the case back together again! I haven't done it but I expect it would be very easy to add a switch and some sort or connectors to attach to a car (or boat) battery. The important thing is not to damage anything that will stop the battery physically mating with the tool.

 

[Bodach na mara]

I have opened the battery case on two portable drills and in both cases found that the case actually contained a set of bog standard rechargeable batteries, wired in series, that were very easy to obtain. Soldering wires to batteries is easy with a decent soldering iron, then I just glued the case back together again! I haven't done it but I expect it would be very easy to add a switch and some sort or connectors to attach to a car (or boat) battery. The important thing is not to damage anything that will stop the battery physically mating with the tool.

I have also taken one to bits, but found that replacement cells are not easy to come by and are ruinously expensive. The 12 volt drill that I was working on needed 10 cells at over £4 each!! I thought of using the idea of soldering the leads to the battery terminals, but ended up making a wooden plug with contacts on the sides to which the leads are soldered. If you do solder to the battery, it is important to break the series link in the battery at some point or you will have the dud battery in parallel with the drill motor.