Recent content by GrahamHR

The plastic piece on the outdrive, looks like a small thermostat housing from the 1970s that connects the water supply from the inlet to the hose to the water pump. Earlier ones known to crack. Later ones modified with reinforcing ribs. On our D4-300, the hose fell off that part ( not...

We had inboard VP V8 5.7 petrol powered/ outdrive boats for about 12 years. Fuel topped up via 20l Jerrycans. Engine room fans run for 1 minute or so before engine start up. Common sense really. Maintained by me. No explosions, No fires. No breakdowns, No outdrive issues. Then we bought...

The shift cables fitted to early D4/DPH had a solid actuator core. Later ones used had a much more flexible multistrand core (Teleflex TFXtreme type cable. ) The latter exhibit lower resistance, so the actuators do not overload as easily.

This "Gi-E" engine dates from around late 2002 to early 2003. My 5.7 GXi-F engine was in a 2004 boat, built in late 2003. It is for sure a late type GM V8, as are the Mercruiser versions. All mechanical parts of the engine are the same as for road going cars of that era ( apart from the marine...

I made a T piece/ hose etc., attached to the raw water pump inlet to allow flushing of the 1999 5.7GSi exhausts. The 2004 5.7 GXi-F. It had a T piece in the raw water pump inlet as standard that allowed flushing via an attached hose/ USA garden hose coupling. I put a stainless ball valve and...

Whilst you have it apart, fit a closed cooling system. Block, inlet manifold, water pump and heads cooled in an antifreeze solution. Winterization? Just the exhaust manifolds/ risers/ heat exchanger, flush with freshwater to get rid of the salt and drain. Retrofitted to a Four Winns 225...

Try out the American Four Winns site; customer support, it might be the "fact facts". They indicate all the props fitted to their boats model by model ( SX, DPS, DPH, Bravo 1, Bravo 2, Bravo 3, X etc.) It'll give you an idea of where to start

? The bellows ( driveshaft and exhaust) have no connection with the outdrive lubrication.

The drive is painted, so concentrated HCL won't harm the aluminium below the paint. Aluminium props, there is no exposed alumimium; just a protective rather inert aluminium oxide layer.

The old trolley jack hydraulic parts are massive in comparison to the similar capacity later one. Both 3mt. As assemblies become smaller, accuracy needs to be better. I haven't disassembled the old jack, no need to,; the newer one has tiny O rings and seals in the pump section.

Chinese stuff, cheap, OK in the past but what quality nowadays? The Chinese produced low profile trolley jack I bought from Machine Mart a few years ago failed just within warranty, used 4 times, I asked for replacement O rings/ seals, not available. Fair play to them, they offered a...

Stainless Steel is a pretty poor electrical conductor; Cheap compared to inconel alloys and the like I suppose.

It's a shame Holyhead marina has gone, never to reappear as an incarnation of the original or the ambitious Stena alternative development of the Newry Beach waterfront. A really nice base for exploration of the North Wales coastline.

Agreed, but fresh water cooling makes them even more bomb proof ! (OK, an anode for the heat exchanger needed each year. I made my own for years from old outdrive zinc anodes in a home made aluminium mould; probably well less than £1.00 each for the burner gas).

Have you ever heard about rain? Bilge plug in, boat fills with water; bilge pump connectors with a power supply get exposed to water; have a happy time and drain the battery