ZINGA Cold Galvanising ?

[Lori]

Has anybody any information or experience with this Zinga Cold Galvanising treatment for steel boats ?? It seems the hull is shot?slurry blasted off and then they apply this zinga stuff, almost immediately. Can't find out how long it lasts? How much protection it is supposed to give? Any information appreciated !


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[BrendanS]

type 'zinga cold galvanising' into google.

first site I looked at says "Correctly applied to appropriately prepared surfaces Zinga provides a ten year life, or up to 25 years if over-painted."

<hr width=100% size=1>Me transmitte sursum, caledoni

 

[Joe_Cole]

Dunno, but it says that its as easy to apply as paint......mainly because it is
paint. I suspect that its no more than a zinc rich paint. They've been around for years and if they are applied straight onto a blasted surface they will give good protection...so will many other paint systems.

Sorry to be a sour puss about it but if I were going to the trouble and expense of painting a complete hull I'ld stick to one of the big names.

Joe


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[ongolo]

I had a sample of it. Could it be that it has a solid content of 97% zinc?

To d my whole boat was almost unaffordable. There is another option which was used on Motessiers boat. It is an inorganic zinc that can be over coated with itself and also has antifouling properties.

The stuff is called Metagrip or Dox Anode??? There is a metal boat forum and I made that paticular post a favourite. Maybe it is still here on this machine I check.

Some australian professor was rving about how good the stuff is.

regards ongolo


<hr width=100% size=1>So what......... it floats

 

[ongolo]

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zinc coatings underwater


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Phil Clark



Joined: 29 May 2002
Posts: 11

Posted: Mon Feb 24, 2003 8:55 am Post subject: zinc coatings underwater

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When I bought my boat four years ago its underwater sections had been blasted and coated in a silicated zinc called METAGRIP. There is no paint and no antifoul - just (97%) pure zinc! I have researched this French product and everyone seems to rave about it. It is said to be (and certainly is!) mechanically tough, relatively cheap, needs only a thin coat every year or two, and works as an antifouling (at least as good as copper). My experience is that it works well as an antifouling and is very easy to clean and overcoat. I have 24 anodes dotted about which are made of a compatible zinc (only available from Meta) and these seem to go before the coating.

Has anyone else had experience of this process? I am surprised that more people don't use it? Am I missing something?

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Brian Young
Administrator


Joined: 15 Aug 2001
Posts: 786
Location: Port Townsend,WA, USA
Posted: Mon Feb 24, 2003 10:28 am Post subject:

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Phil
It certainly does sound interesting. I am curious about the high number of zincs. Are they specified by the paint company?
How are they mounted to the hull, and approximately how large are they? How much metal is exposed below the waterline? Like shaft and bearing material? What about through hull valves? Are your standpipes also painted with this same paint?
(is your boat steel or aluminum ?)
Do you replace your zincs before recoating the bottom? Do you get any growth on the bottom, slime, seaweed, barnacles? What is your prop made of?
Where do you buy this paint? Can you give an approximate price per gallon?
Thanks for the info!
Brian
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Phil Clark



Joined: 29 May 2002
Posts: 11

Posted: Tue Feb 25, 2003 2:21 am Post subject:

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Hi
The boat is a steel Koopmans and is kept in S.Spain, Med.
Meta (coating manufacturer) say lots of small (2lb.) anodes are better than a few big ones. They are special - you NEVER use conventional ones. Mine are bolted to studs but most people weld them to 90 degree brackets. I unbolt them before re-coating and then put them back. My underwater section is about 55 sq. yds. All shafts are stainless, as is the prop. All standpipes (1.5") are mild and coated (as much as possible) with the same stuff. My seacocks (hull valves?) are DZR and are fine - some use "plastic" but I don't like the thought! After 16 months in the water without moving, there was zero slime & weed. There was a thin coating of tiny shells all over which came off easily with a plastic scraper. I then pressure-washed, waited for it to dry and gave it a thin coat. It was dry in minutes but I wated 48 hours before re-launching.

This stuff is quite popular in France and Germany. Meta (Lyons, France) are famous metal boat builders - they built Bernard Moitessir's "Joshua" and, of course, "Northern Light". They now build 100% in aluminium but made 100s of super steel boats. They developed the Metagrip (zinc) system because the boss is a paint scientist (president of some French Paint association - highly though of, apparently) and he still believes it's the best way to stop steel boats from going rusty. Incidently, their luxury aluminium boats use a near identical zinc system - think about that one! There is a 30 - 35 year old Joshua on my pontoon which was coated all over with the stuff and is 100% rust free. I know at least six other boats using it and everyone is convinced.

I used my university contacts to speak to Mike Mitchell of Akzo Nobel (International Paints). He is considered the "expert" on zinc coatings and he sent me some scientific tests. He is convinced that zinc is the best way to protect steel from rust. He said that the only reason it wasn't used underwater on ships is because most antifouling paint is copper (or tin). Zinc + copper = major disaster, of course. He had no idea about zinc's anti-fouling properties but said he would test it. He knew zinc is 100% environmentally friendly (Meta say you can eat the stuff, if you feel the need?!), has high mechanical strength, and almost nothing (including epoxy) sticks to it - weed has no chance!

Oh, and it's not expensive. I need about six kilos to give my boat one coat. Meta say leave it in the water for 2 - 3 years. Five coats are needed initially. It costs about £12 a kilo. Anodes cost £3 each.

So far, so good ...

regards

Phil


So far, so good

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Clark Burrell



Joined: 31 Aug 2002
Posts: 18
Location: Jackson Mississippi
Posted: Tue Feb 25, 2003 10:59 am Post subject: GET ME THE ADDRESS/WEBSITE of META

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Hey Phil.... whats the best way to get INFO about this stuff from the manufacturer?? It Sounds good.... but your personal opinion and experience with it gives me the MOST confidence. I would like to read more about it..I did a web search, and found the name of the stuff in a couple of forum postings... but never found the company website, or someone selling it. IF there is something on the web about I would like to look at it.... and if I can just have INFO sent from the manufacturere that will work to if I can find a way to contact them.... I am very interested.... but a question I have IS.... is the stuff SMOOTH?? does it lay down nice and smooth and shiney like normal paint?? Whenever I think of something Zinc coated I think of the rough fnishes you have on your chain... or anchor or things you get dipped.
Thanx
Clark

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Jesús



Joined: 13 Mar 2002
Posts: 40

Posted: Tue Feb 25, 2003 11:52 am Post subject:

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Meta's web site is

http://www.reducostall.com/index.htm

Didn't find there information about Metagrip.
Hope this helps,
Jesús

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Phil Clark



Joined: 29 May 2002
Posts: 11

Posted: Tue Feb 25, 2003 1:20 pm Post subject:

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Hi

You can email Marc Bouriche at strongall@reducostall.com. He speaks English and is pretty helpful. Alternatively, email me (philclark@btinternet.com) and I will tell you what I know.

Yes, it's very smooth and hard. The only drawbacks I am aware of are (1) availability only from France, (2) the problems associated with "mudcracking", and (3) anode wear if electrical conditions aren't good. I don't think the build-up of shells would be such a problem if a) the boat moved and b) the water wasn't so warm.

It's worth remembering that once the system is applied, you have to go with it. Covering it and using a conventional antifoul is not really an option because any deep scratch would reveal zinc and become an anode! On saying that, I know of two boats that have covered it without grief.

Hope this helps

Phil

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ongolo



Joined: 14 Jun 2003
Posts: 31
Location: Namibia/Africa
Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2003 12:38 pm Post subject:

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Hi Phil,

I know I am about a year late from the last reply, but is there any news on this Metagrip?

I read a long time ago, that Motessirs Boat Joshua was painted with this paint.

How does this paint differ from INternationals Zincgalv6 paint, which is also a silicate zinc based paint, but with the latter we dont have any good experiences.

For one, the engineering bulletin says it cannot be overcoated with itself.

I live in one of the two most corrisive places on earth and we really have problems here.

When Motessier wrote about building "Joshua" he mentioned that he used an angle grinder for he could not sandblast and he rolled on Metagrip. He also mentioned, that the english call it "Doxanode".

I have made some experimets with paint, but this all sounds good about Metagrip. Any more news please?

Thank you,

Ongolo

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<hr width=100% size=1>So what......... it floats

 

[Joe_Cole]

Ongolo,

97% Zinc solid content is quite possible. It's just that solids could be (say) 60% of the total paint. i.e. Zinc is 97% of the 60%.

Joe

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[cliff]

IMHO - DON'T.

I can find no evidence of the claimed "NATO" approval nor can I find any reference to its NSN which the product must have if approved by NATO - It seems to be an over priced zinc rich paint to me, no more.

If that is all you need go for "Galvafroid" which HAS a proven track record.

I have asked a number of colleagues involved in the "oil patch" and none of them have even heard of "ZINGA"

Sorry, but your boat, your problem but I would not even think about it. If you need professional advise PM me and I will put you in touch with a NACE certified / qualified corrosion engineer who give you an unbiased opinion. As an after thought, we have treated rigs and had to give a 25 year guarantee in the splash zone and -10. Mind you rigs are stationary, boats are not!.

Why not just bite the bullet, sand blast the hull and use coal tar epoxy and antifoul over the top of it and be finished with it. Do you really need a sacrificial coating?

Sorry for being so negative but it is my metallurgical training coming out not to mention my reluctance to believe in "miracle cures" and "magic potions"

<font color=blue>The above is my personal opinion and is given without prejudice (as I am not receiving any renumeration for this consultation and am providing this service "pro bono")</font color=blue>

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[Joe_Cole]

Re: Galvanising

Ah. A metallurgist! I have a question which is relevant to this thread which you may be able to help with.

I've made a lock for my outboard. (My previous one was flimsy and is now very rusty). I want to galvanise it, preferably by hot dip. I asked at a galvanizers and they could do it but the charge was for a minimum of 100kg. Not a bad price if I wanted to have 100kg's done....but little more than half a kilo? Just wasn't worth it. So I thought why not do it at home? Could be interesting.....but is it practical?

I imagine that there's a bit more to it than just dropping a piece of metal into some molten Zinc (i.e some old anodes). And, Yes, I do realise that there are definitely some safety issues to consider.

My searches on Google have turned up nothing of help.

Any thoughts?

Joe

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[cliff]

Re: Galvanising

Yes it is feasible to do "at home" - all you need is the "magic potion" and some molten zinc, not old anodes as they are Mg/Zn alloys but having said that it is still possible.

What exactly do you need to know? apart from molten zinc is hot and burns when you stick your fingers in it?

I need to know the size and thickness of the pressing / lock.

Also, is this "pro bono"

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[Lori]

Hell Fire...... Thank you all....... I think........I really didn't realise it could be this complicated. I just want to clean her off and get her a protective coat and then a decent paint job....Will be away cruising for several years and so I don't want to be lifting her out too often....but then I want to be sure the hull is protected.
Cliff. If there is a simple, straight forward method I'd be more than pleased to hear it...


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[cliff]

If you are prepared to blast back to white metal (SA2½ or 3 blast finish) then yes - give me a few hours and I'll PM you with spec and coatings - it is 6:15 am here and I ain't been to by bed yet - need to look up some details in the office and what is available on the amateur market - do you propose to use airless spray or conventional spray?

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[Lori]

A dip at home job........mmm. Wonder where I can get a tin bath big enough to dip my boat..... Oh a lock. Geez I'm losing the plot ..thread..

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[lyc]

Re: Galvanising

Try the Galvanizers Association web page for information <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.hdg.org.uk/> HERE </A>

<hr width=100% size=1><A target="_blank" HREF=http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BroadsandEastcoastBoating/>Broads & East Coast Boating</A>

 

[Joe_Cole]

Re: Galvanising

Cliff,

Thanks.

It's a couple of box sections, roughly 50mm square, 3mm wall thickness. One piece is about 250mm long, the other about 50mm long. Theres a few slots and holes for it to fit together.

A basic guide to the process would be helpful, together with a recipe for the "magic potion".

I worked for a short spell many years ago in a foundry so I have some idea about the safety issues.

It could be an interesting little project.

Joe


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