YAPP Low power Seatalk Anchor Watcher

AngusMcDoon

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Time for a new YAPPP - YAPP in production, although I am still having a bit of plastics bother as usual (see later). This time it is an anchor watcher - a device you switch on when at anchor and it watches over various things electronically and lets you know if anything is amiss. Now I know people are going to say "My chartplotter does that". Well, so does mine, but this one is better. Here's why...

- My chartplotter consumes 650mA even with the screen turned right down low. My device uses just 28mA at 12V.

- A chartplotter is often mounted in the cockpit and has a weedy little alarm beep. How's that going to wake you up when you are inside asleep? This device can be wired to anywhere you want; it's small and discrete. You could put it under you pillow if you wanted.

- My chartplotter will only monitor position and change from it. My device watches 5 parameters. Although some instrument heads can be set for things like shallow alarm, again - they are usually in the cockpit.

Here's the box and the board...

sdc11851.jpg

sdc11855.jpg


This is what it has on it...

A Seatalk cable connector for data in
A push button to start or stop watching
A USB connection for configuring it
An audible beeper for the alarm sound
A red status LED

This is what it can watch for...

1) Position moved away from datum
2) Depth below a minimum
3) SOG above a maximum
4) Windspeed above a maximum
5) Heading changed from datum
6) Loss of data connection

All the values that will cause an alarm are configurable and any of those 6 parameters to watch can be switched on and off via the configuration (apart from 6). Configuration is done via a Windows application over USB. Plug the device in and it appears as a COM port. Discovering them will show the device's COM port in the app (but not non-YAPP COM port devices), connect and update the settings. Here's the app...

awapp.jpg


Current relevant Seatalk data is shown coming in. The alarm beep can be tested, alarms switched on and off and alarm threshold values set. The re-arm time can also be set (if the condition triggers again after you've accepted it how long before you get another alarm). These are all remembered on the device so you don't have to configure it every time you use it.

Once configured, press the button (real on the device or checkbox in the app) and it will take the current position and heading as datum points and start watching. While watching the LED flashes every second for reassurance. A long press on the device switches watching off, and if an alarm goes off a button press will accept it and silence the beeper. If the data connection is lost an intermittent audible alarm goes off.

The plastics story - I have drilling round holes sussed now. However, the USB is a square hole. I can either drill an oversized round hole with a normal USB connector on the board or I can solder in a USB cable as in the picture. I haven't cracked neat square holes in ABS yet although I have some ideas to dry. Any suggestions would be welcome. I may also get the next size up box as it's a bit if a squeeeeze to get it all in.

This has been the biggest software effort so far of all the YAPPP's, although not up to the AIS repeater or big mast display yet. It's the first with 2 parts on different hardware. The hardware schematic and layout is just an extension of previous YAPPP's although it was a squeeze again to get it all in on a 50mmx50mm board.

I have 12 boards so if anyone wants one let me know, although I will see what I can do to solve the square hole problem. This is also my first venture into a .net app, so that may require a few updates! Source will go on the website in due course. If anyone wants it before then I can send it.
 
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Heckler

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Time for a new YAPPP - YAPP in production, although I am still having a bit of plastics bother as usual (see later). This time it is an anchor watcher - a device you switch on when at anchor and it watches over various things electronically and lets you know if anything is amiss. Now I know people are going to say "My chartplotter does that". Well, so does mine, but this one is better. Here's why...

- My chartplotter takes 650mA even with the screen turned right down low. My device takes 28mA at 12V.

- A chartplotter is often mounted in the cockpit and has a weedy little alarm beep. How's that going to wake you up when you are inside asleep? This device can be wired to anywhere you want; it's small and discrete. You could put it under you pillow if you wanted.

- My chartplotter will only monitor position and change from it. My device watches 5 parameters. Although some instrument heads can be set for things like shallow alarm again, they are usually in the cockpit.

Here's the box and the board...

sdc11851.jpg

sdc11855.jpg


This is what it has on it...

A Seatalk cable for data in
A push button to start or stop watching
A USB connection for configuring it
An audible beeper for the alarm sound
A red status LED

This is what it can watch for...

1) Position moved away from datum
2) Depth below a minimum
3) SOG above a maximum
4) Windspeed above a maximum
5) Heading changed from datum
6) Loss of data connection

All the values that will cause an alarm are configurable and any of those 6 parameters to watch can be switched on and off via the configurator (apart from 6). Configuration is done via a Windows application over USB. Plug the device in and it appears as a COM port. Discovering them will show the device in the application (but not non-YAPP COM port devices), connect and update the settings. Here's the app...

awapp.jpg


Current Seatalk data is shown coming in. The alarm beep can be tested, alarms switched on and off and alarm values set. The re-arm time can also be set (if the condition remains and you accept it how long before you get another alarm). These are all remembered on the device so you don't have to configure it every time you use it.

Once configured, press the button (real on the device or checkbox in the app) and it will take the current position and heading as datum points and start watching. While watching the LED flashes every second. A long press on the device switches watching off, and if an alarm goes off a button press will accept it and silence the beep. If the data connection is lost an intermittent audible alarm goes off.

The plastics story - I have drilling round holes sussed now. However, the USB is a square hole. I can either drill an oversized round hole with a normal USB connector on the board or I can solder in a USB cable as in the picture. I haven't cracked neat square holes in ABS yet although I have some ideas to dry. Any suggestions would be welcome. I may also get the next size up box as it's a bit if a squeeeeze to get it all in.

This has been the biggest software effort so far of all the YAPPP's, although not up to the AIS repeater or big mast display yet. It's the first with 2 parts on different hardware. The hardware schematic and layout is just an extension of previous YAPPP's although it was a squeeze again to get it all in on a 50mmx50mm board.

I have 12 boards so if anyone wants one let me know, although I will see what I can do to solve the square hole problem. This is also my first venture into a .net app, so that may require a few updates! Source will go on the website in due course. If anyone wants it before then I can send it.
John
on 6a2 for the winter, cuppa when we are there?
Stu
 
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I'd be interested in one of those when done thanks. Particularly for the head change - which I assume is the permissible angle the boat can swing before an alarm goes off - helps with sleep in some of those tighter Scottish anchorages...
 

prv

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D'OH! I keep forgetting that some people have a standalone GPS.

So what does yours use, then? I don't know what Raymarine do nowadays, but I believe all the classic grey plotters lacked a GPS of their own and expected you to have a Raystar 125 on the Seatalk bus.

Pete
 

AngusMcDoon

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I'd be interested in one of those when done thanks. Particularly for the head change - which I assume is the permissible angle the boat can swing before an alarm goes off - helps with sleep in some of those tighter Scottish anchorages...

Heading change is difference from the heading datum taken at the time you press the watch button to start watching. The amount of change to trigger an alarm is configurable in the Windows application, or can be switch off completely.
 

AngusMcDoon

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How does it get the position?

As Pete says, from Seatalk. I have one of their over-priced mushrooms for GPS data. I could make an NMEA-0183 version of this device with a couple of NMEA inputs if there is enough interest. However, I don't have anything NMEA on my boat so someone else would have to test it. If anyone would be interested in this, reply to this thread and if there's enough I'll make it.
 

superheat6k

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I don't have position data available on my Seatalk, so would be interested in the NMEA 0183 or 2000 as I have both of these formats available from my Garmin plotter. Fortunately my domestic bank is 240AH so less worried about the overnight drain from the GPS, but take your point completely about having the alarm too far away - mine's on the flybridge, and cannot be heard from the cabin.

Position circle and min depth would be all I would want to see (unless you can sort a 'about to whack into another boat' alarm).
 

prv

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I have both of these formats available from my Garmin plotter. Fortunately my domestic bank is 240AH so less worried about the overnight drain from the GPS, but take your point completely about having the alarm too far away - mine's on the flybridge, and cannot be heard from the cabin.

Does the plotter not have an external alarm connection? If it does, you could just wire up an ordinary buzzer in your cabin and then use the built-in anchor watch mode.

Pete
 

Graham_Wright

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The plastics story - I have drilling round holes sussed now. However, the USB is a square hole. I can either drill an oversized round hole with a normal USB connector on the board or I can solder in a USB cable as in the picture. I haven't cracked neat square holes in ABS yet although I have some ideas to dry. Any suggestions would be welcome. I may also get the next size up box as it's a bit if a squeeeeze to get it all in.

In plastics, a (very) small soldering iron used with care will melt through. Beware of the fumes though.


(- and remember, money with order!).
 

paul.norton

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Regarding cutting square/rectangular holes in ABS.

What about making up a steel template with the correct sized hole and tape, or otherwise secure it, to the box and just "mill" out the hole with a Dremel or similar?

Might work :D

Paul
 
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