Yanmar Impellors and alternatives?

xeitosaphil

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Started the engine yesterday ( Yanmar 2GM20) 1st time for over 6 weeks, as solar panel keeps batteries charged up .
No water coming out of exhaust so shut down smartly. Checked water intake from vetus strainer all ok. Removed pump from engine and disconnected water feed pipe from forward end of the pump at the elbow on engine. Seemed to be a build up of salt in end of tube, so cleared that.
Thought I would check water pump impellor while everything disconnected from engine, just in case it had shed a fin or something. Checked impellor over, no cracks or splits, not come adrift from hub, and seemed ok. So I replace old impellor, and re assembled the pump, started engine, hey presto water out of exhaust, and no leaks from the pump either.
Now I’m thinking maybe I should get a couple of new impellors for spares, and replace the old one in the pump along with the gasket with my genuine Yanmar ones, which I currently have as a spares?
I know some time back that there was a common problem with impellors not even lasting a season in some cases, but wondered now that time has moved on, if things might be better now?

Question is, are the alternative replacement impellors in the market today now sold by the likes of companies on ebay any good?

I noticed that my genuine Yanmar impellor is actually a Johnson 806B-1 which came in a sealed Yanmar package spare number 104211-42070, so not sure what’s going on there, or are you still better off to get the genuine Yanmar spare at inflated costs, even though they may not be made by them, but only packaged and distributed by them.

I notice that the Johnson 806B-1 is also half the price of a Yanmar!

Has anybody had any good or bad experiences lately using alternative ones, or know of ones which seem to last ok , or should I go with genuine Yanmar parts.

Cheers

Philip
 
I leave my impeller in when the boat is on the hard and change it just prior to launch. Engine is 3JE. Last season, I fitted an aftermarket (boxed in the name of the chandler) version. A month after removing it, it still shows permanent set in that the blades/fins are still compressed to the form of the pump body. Normally, I'd have expected the blades to have returned to normal after a few hours. I think I'll be buying genuine from now, or Johnson brand if I can find an equivalent part number.
 
I often had that problem after the boat was out of the water for some time.

My method: leave the saildrive inlet closed, remove cap from water filter and fill to the brim ( fills pipe to inlet valve and also to water pump) replace cap.
Start engine and open water inlet. - the vacuum pull of the water going down to the pump pulls the water up through from the base of the saildrive - job done.

Don't ask how long it took me to work this out !
 
I often had that problem after the boat was out of the water for some time.

My method: leave the saildrive inlet closed, remove cap from water filter and fill to the brim ( fills pipe to inlet valve and also to water pump) replace cap.
Start engine and open water inlet. - the vacuum pull of the water going down to the pump pulls the water up through from the base of the saildrive - job done.

Don't ask how long it took me to work this out !

It's really only necessary to pour water into the basket part of the filter / strainer. You can leave the sea water inlet open rather than faffing about opening it once the engine has started. The sea water is not at the base of the saildrive but is probably only a couple of inches below the filter as it will be level with the sea outside the boat.

Should also add that the pumps for the Yanmar engines are made by Johnson or Jabsco depending upon the engine model so the Johnson impelller is the correct impeller for the engine and you should buy it wherever you can find it the cheapest. I think I bought my last one from ASAP Supplies as I had a biggish order and no postage costs but you can always shop around.

Richard
 
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Should also add that the pumps for the Yanmar engines are made by Johnson or Jabsco depending upon the engine model so the Johnson impelller is the correct impeller for the engine and you should buy it wherever you can find it the cheapest. I think I bought my last one from ASAP Supplies as I had a biggish order and no postage costs but you can always shop around.

Richard


Thanks Richard, that's exactly what I wanted to hear.

Cheers

Philip
 
I note French Marine list the 2GM20 impeller code as 104211-42071 where as the Jabsco ASAP impeller code is 104211-42070 - any difference betwix these two?

42071 appears to be the new code for 42070 and might simply be due to a change in the type of "rubber". The Johnson impellers for my 3YM30 have also changed material recently. I've changed mine to the new material on the basis that it must be an improvement .... presumably! :encouragement:

Richard
 
Unfortunately the new part number does not include the thread to allow it to be jacked out with the Volvo /yanmar tool which is very annoying to discover after you manage to source the tool !

Not sure if we are talking about the same impeller? Mine for a 2GM20 which has a screw or bar across the inside diameter of the centre hub which fits into a slot in the shaft. there is no way you could extract it by a thread such as this

http://www.marineoutfitters.ca/inde...1679|11615&product=29941322&code=129671-92110

The only type of puller that will remove my type of impeller type Part Number: 104211-42070 is the small version of this puller

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sea-Dog-S...SM-660040-1-/161689715617?hash=item25a57543a1

which you would have to fit the arms down the outside of the impeller hub and then adjust the tee bar screw thread which fits on the end of the pump shaft, to pull the impeller out.

Which type have you got?
 
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