Yanmar 1GM10 Water Pump

[broadcaster]

Hi,

We had water leaking from the tell tale hole on our Yanmar 1GM10 water pump. I bought a new seal kit and installed it, however I not sure whether I should have oiled or greased the shaft where it goes through the seals.

Also I hope I have the new seals the right way round, the old ones were pretty destroyed. If anybody can confirm this I would be grateful before I put it back on. Fortunately the shaft didn't appear to be very worn.

Thanks

Andy

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[pete]

Hi Andy
It is a good idea to grease the shaft before inserting it through the lip seals as it reduces the risk of damage to the seals and provides initial lubrication, generally the hollow side of the seal( with the spring inside ) goes to the fluid side, so on the water side the spring will be facing the water and on the oil side the spring will be facing the oil.
It is also a good idea to carefully polish the shaft to remove any traces of the old seals,salt,ect

hope this helps

Pete

<hr width=100% size=1>Artificial intelegence is no match for natural stupidity

 

[broadcaster]

Hi,

Thanks for your reply, it seems I may have put the seals in the wrong way round. I put the flat end of the seal facing the impellor and on the other seal I did the same and made the flat face towards the bearings. I am not sure if I can remove them now without damage.

Although I cleaned the shaft, I think it might be wise to remove it and give it a good clean with some kind of metal polish.

I do have one other question if anybody can help, the only gasket on the engine side was the 'O' ring, I presume that there should be a gasket between the metal face of the water pump and the engine. I will try and pop into the dealer today to have a look at the parts diagram.

Thanka again for your help.

Andy

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[snowleopard]

looking in the workshop manual (if you want a copy of the page, pm me your email address) there are two seals, the larger one sits next to the two ball races and is oriented to retain lubricant in the bearings (i.e. the lip around the shaft points towards the bearings.

the smaller one keeps the water in the pump chamber so the lip points towards the impeller.

the assembly sequence on the shaft is
impeller
small seal
large seal
bearing
small circlip
bearing
large circlip.

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[steve28]

You had the seals in the right way around !
the spring is on the oposite side to the fluid you want to keep out !
If you put it on with the spring to the water side then it will rust and fall out.
Use this link to assist you:_
http://www.yanmarhelp.com/1gmwpump.htm



steve

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[broadcaster]

Hi,

Excellent link, thanks. That's good news I don't need to take them out. I will just polish trhe shaft and put it all back together with a little grease.

Thanks for your help everybody.

Andy

P.S A new pump was £180+vat and the seals, new impellor cover and gasket were £20. A new shaft is apparently £45+vat

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[wooslehunter]

Here's a trick I've just been told by the local marine engineer. My pump is a Jabsco so it may not be possible on your pump. If the shaft is too scored to polish then put an O-ring next to the seal. The seal then sits on the shaft at a different point which is not scored.

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[steve28]

probabaly wont help but this post is from the man from Marine Power uk and his price and part number for the pump complete !


steve

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[30boat]

I am sorry but this is not correct.You have to fit the seals with the spring facing the fluid.However the spring should be stainless when the fluid is water.If the replacement seals came from an auto parts store or similar they will certainly be non stainless and won't last more than a few hours.Either get replacements from Yanmar or use the original stainless springs with the the new seals after discarding the ones that came with them of course.At a pinch you can use "O"rings instead of springs.Although these last for much longer than ordinary steel springs this is not a long term solution.
If the shaft is worn it's cheap enough to have one turned by an engineer.Cheaper than the Yanmar part.

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[broadcaster]

Hi,

Thanks for the advice everybody, I have fitted the new seals etc and everything is working again with no leaks. It's amazing how easy it is to remove the water pump, only takes a few minutes.

Fortunately when I was messing around with the engine I noticed that the water temperature sensor lead had come loose.

Just need to clean up the rust on the oil pipes now.

Andy

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[ruff_n_tumble]

Apparently the oil pipes have been known to rust through. Replacements are now made in copper - I have one but am waiting for the next oil change to fit it.

<hr width=100% size=1>Steve Marsh
Hunter 27 OOD "Ruff-n-Tumble"
Gosport

 

[steve28]

and you dont want to break that !
they are expensive too... £35 if i remember rightly

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[broadcaster]

Hi,

I was going to replace the oil pipes but they were approx £45 for the long one and £35 for the short + VAT.

I think a clean up and hammerite will fix them for a couple of seasons. The rust only appears to be on the surface. I also thought about using POR45 which is oil rig paint and then spray over with the Yanmar colour to make it look good.

There is an amusing warning on the tin of POR45, it says "if you get this paint on your skin, only time will remove it". Must be good stuff.

Andy

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[zachs]

All,

Is there any added value in replacing the oil pipe ball joints at either end of the pipe? They show no sign of rust or damage and I'd prefer not to pay extra if it's not needed. Also, does anyone have part numbers for the items in the "water pump seal replacement kit" described above?

This message chain has been alot of help. Thank you. I had the long oil pipe fail due to leakage described above, made a BIG mess in my bilge. Just lucky it was during warmup at dockside. If it looks rusty, I highly recommend replacing pipe with copper replacement at next oil change. (Cost $47 US) Could save you swabbing up 2 quarts of oil out of your oil catch and bilge.

Thanks again.
Zach

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[zachs]

All,

Update: Long copper oil pipe comes with pipe joints soldered on each end. (Total: $53 US). Also recommended replacemnet of all copper compression washers as well ($1 US x4).

Zach

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[broadcaster]

Hi,

That is about half the price of the UK, maybe I should get my collegue to bring one over when he comes next month. Do you have the part numbers.

I am afraid I don't have the seal part numbers as I threw the bags away with the labels on. It is well worth doing it as it is quite a simple and cheap job.

Andy

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[zachs]

Andy,

Yanmar part number for the long Lube Oil Pipe: 128170-39020

I don't know if these guys ship to the UK or not, but this place has them a bit cheaper:

http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/yanmar/shopping/numberresults.php?pn=128170-39020

If not, I pick my parts up at a place called Golden State Diesel Marine in Oakland, CA. USA. Very knowlegeable and honest, and usually have these hard to find items right on the shelf. I don't know if they ship either, but you may try. Ask for Barb. 510-465-1093

I found the part numbers for the water pump as well, picked them up today, and am looking forward to a leak free pump and an oil free bilge!

Thanks again!

Zach

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