Yanmar 1GM10 engine stop problem

sailorbaz

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I took the boat out on Thursday for a solo sail - got out into the bay, head to wind with autohelm on, hoisted the sails and got moving. Pulled the engine stop but couldn't push it in again. I gave it a few squirts with WD40, left it a bit then tried pushing it in, tapped it with various tools but couldn't move it. In the end I put the autohelm back on and disconnected the cable at the engine end so I could restart the engine to go back in later.
I phoned the agent and they had one in stock, (cost $70 !!!) which he posted express - it arrived yesterday and I'm about to go and put it on.
My question is what's the best thing to lube the cable and the bit you pull/push to avoid the same thing happening?
Sailorbaz
 
I took the boat out on Thursday for a solo sail - got out into the bay, head to wind with autohelm on, hoisted the sails and got moving. Pulled the engine stop but couldn't push it in again. I gave it a few squirts with WD40, left it a bit then tried pushing it in, tapped it with various tools but couldn't move it. In the end I put the autohelm back on and disconnected the cable at the engine end so I could restart the engine to go back in later.
I phoned the agent and they had one in stock, (cost $70 !!!) which he posted express - it arrived yesterday and I'm about to go and put it on.
My question is what's the best thing to lube the cable and the bit you pull/push to avoid the same thing happening?
Sailorbaz

I never met that problem when I had a 1GM - like most people I had far more trouble starting and also keeping the thing functioning.
 
The cable itself does not normally need lubrication. It is usually the solid end that seizes. Pull the inner cable out completely clean it and lightly grease before replacing. Any form of kink in the run will make stiffness worse, so make sure the cable has a fair run. This is not an issue unique to 1GMs, but to all stop cables of this type.
 
Same as on my Beta.Cables tend to rust and seize and a solenoid is easy to connect to a switch on the engine panel.

Not so easy on a 1GM as there is nowhere to mount a solenoid. The normal stop cable is not a big problem if you keep it clean. Neglect is easily avoided and the system is very reliable.
 
Yanma 1gm10

I never met that problem when I had a 1GM - like most people I had far more trouble starting and also keeping the thing functioning.

What nonsense! The 1gm10 starts first time and given fuel and water will run for ever with minimum looking after. The problem is with the owner and not the engine if otherwise.:confused:
 
must admit my 1GM10 was 100% reliable.........maybe the crudeness and lack of sophistication of such fittings as the 'pull here to stop' lever contributed to it never letting me down
 
We fitted an ordinary Bowden cable from a motorcycle shop. If it failed, (5 years it didn't) there's always string....

I'm currently on the "lift the top companionway step and push the wee lever" method of stopping my 1GM10. The bracket which holds the outer cable is bust, and I have not yet found a Yanmar dealer who can find a part number for it. Can't see it in the parts book myself.
 
I'm currently on the "lift the top companionway step and push the wee lever" method of stopping my 1GM10. The bracket which holds the outer cable is bust, and I have not yet found a Yanmar dealer who can find a part number for it. Can't see it in the parts book myself.

An old choke cable will suffice.
 
Cables I have. But, as I wrote "the bracket which holds the outer cable is bust," That's the one on the side of the engine, and it doesn't seem to be in any parts manual.

It's just a right-angled angled bit of metal with a hole smaller than the sheath.... easy to fabricate/bodge.
 
Bit late I know but you can buy a diesel stop cable for a fraction of the officical Yanmar price from a car spares shop

+1

I got a "tractor / diesel stop cable" for under £10 on ebay.. Works perfectly well. Lubricate the exposed end more than the rest of it. Get a spare ?
 
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