Yanmar 1gm10 diy installation

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surekandoo

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I'm looking to replace my "bloody Vire" at long last.
I've been quoted over £7k including VAT to install new 1gm10. Over 50% of the total cost is labour & vat.
I can buy the engine and install it myself.
What are the pitfalls of doing this?

The current fire engine beds are too narrow and may be a little high but can be lowered and cross members installed to increase the width. Would I be OK using angle iron or channel to accomplish this?

Any feedback/advice most welcome.
 
I've lifted an engine out and put it back in, albeit back onto the same beds rather than modifying them. I also replaced all the fuel, water and exhaust systems, as you will have to. If you think your DIY skills are up to the task then you're probably correct. The only "specialist" bit is lining up the shaft coupling.

A number of boats use mild steel angle as part of the original engine beds, so you're probably alright there. Mine were painted to reduce rust, which is probably sensible though I don't know if they all are.

There is a Yanmar document called the "Marine Installation Manual" which describes how to install their engines according to their rules - probably worth downloading a copy and following what it says.

Pete
 
I'm no expert on this but £3500 sounds a huge amount for labour, even if the beds do have to be remade. How many quotes have you obtained?
My suggestion would be to get some more.
 
I replaced a " bloody Stuart Turner" with a 1GM in a Stella about 10 years ago.
Easily within average DIY skills but time consuming and you will learn a lot, next time will be much easier.
I bought a book called something like "installing small diesel marine engines" which is worth having provided you don't follow it too slavishly.
Mild steel bearers are fine but give them a good coating of paint, I used a thick bitumen gloop, Synthaprufe or similar.
I made a timber template of the engine bed in order to get the alignment correct. This was a good idea except that I photocopied the plan and photocopies aren't always precisely to scale! [see what I mean about learning curve?]
One thing I regretted was not buying a chain hoist early on. When I eventually did, it made the job so much easier.
Another pitfall was that the suppliers tried to insist that I upped the shaft diameter from 3/4" to 1". this would have made the job much harder. I reasoned that 3/4" stainless was going to be much stronger than the original 3/4" brass, and it was fine.
Good luck, you'll wonder why you didn't do it earlier.
 
The 'going rate' for labour when I changed my 1GM10 5 years ago seemed to be about £1k. Might be worth a second quote.

Might be worth looking at a Beta as well - they will customise the feet to suit.
 
Very much a DIY job. I also replaced a Stuart Turner with a 1GM. The suggestion for a mock up is good. The key datum point is the propshaft as you can't easily change that. I made mine out of plywood with the key points of shaft and engine mounts accurately placed and used this to determine the mods to the engine bearers. In my case I built them up and out in timber but a steel frame would be equally good in other situations. one of the nice things about the 1GM is that it is light enough to manhandle, although using the mainsheet tackle on a beam over the companionway makes final positioning easier.

When you choose your engine, make sure you get the right gearbox ratio to swing the largest diameter prop you can fit in the space. There are 3 different ratios which give you a range of diameters from about 12"-15". You need to run the engine at high revs around 2600 cruising and prop it so that you can easily get at least 3400.

The engine moves around a lot compared with a Vire so you need to consider a flexible coupling. With a rigid coupling you may run into problems with the shaft hitting the walls of the stern tube. If you have a Stuart Turner type tube it is worth considering using a piece of cutless bearing in the inside end so the shaft is fixed and then the engine moves around the coupling.

As to budget, you will find you end up spending between £1500-2000 on installation bits - water system, controls, fuel system, exhaust and stern gear so be prepared for around £5k for materials.

If you intend keeping the boat it is well worth doing, but may be big expenditure relative to resale value of the boat.

Just one last point, you might consider fitting a Nanni/Beta 10 or 14 (same basic engine) as these are physically the same footprint as the Yanmar but much more sophisticated - 2 cylinder, freshwater cooled, and unlike the Yanmar a current design. Bit heavier and not so easy to handle for installation and a bit more expensive, but depending on the boat might be worth considering.
 
One thing to consider might be using a flexible coupling of the Aquadrive or Pythondrive type to reduce alignment concerns, and to reduce the transmission of vibration and noise through the boat. Depends on the space/cost/etc constraints you have.
 
Always worth considering but a bit overkill for a 1GM and the space constraints are usually more acute in smaller boats. I used a Bullflex coupling on mine and it solves both the vibration and alignment issues - although with my fixed prop shaft the latter is not a problem.
 
Tranona said:
Always worth considering but a bit overkill for a 1GM and the space constraints are usually more acute in smaller boats. I used a Bullflex coupling on mine and it solves both the vibration and alignment issues - although with my fixed prop shaft the latter is not a problem.
Click to expand...

A single cylinder engine bounces around a lot at low revs, and quite a few 1GM's near me have been fitted with the cardan joint type of couplings. Good to hear that the Bullflex couplings are effective as well.

The Yanmar mounts are quite soft and so effective, but it's worth giving them an additional coat of paint as the metal is carbon steel.
 
do it your self
you can get engine mounts off ebay from the uxbridge boat center for £76 free post item number 111063110423
heres a place to get more info, I got the full manual for the 2qm15 from there
http://boatinfo.no/lib/library.html#
I cant see why you'd need to change the tank if it's ok, alignment is simple enough re shaft just be careful with measuring then finish checking with a feeler gauge even if your fitting a posh coupling it's better to get it lined up in the first place
I'm about to fit a 2qm15 in the colvic which had a petter twin, my main concern is height alignment and I also made an adapter plate to fit a standard jabsco pump as yanmar pump prices are crazy, which sticks out a bit more than standard so need to adjust things for that

cheers
mick
 
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