Yank's cruise from Ramsgate to Isle of Wight

[alavarre]

Never sailed up to Rye harbour, but know it well , just over a mile fron the town quay. Mooring at R H would be near the harbourmaster's office against piles, across the river from Rye Harbour Village, you would need a fender board, I think and be prepared to take the mud, mabe you could moor up on the West side.

Thanks, good to know the Western side is an option. Good point on the fender board, haven't got one, will add it to the list.

The photo on the web page must be on the western side?

http://www.visitryeharbour.co.uk/

That would be perfect. The pictures of the visit are attractive.

Cheers, Andy

 

[reginaldon]

Certainly looks like it.

 

[DJE]

Up River at Rye.

Strand Quay at LW:-

We had no trouble getting there with 4 ft draft.

 

[Bosun Higgs]

Hello all. We're taking a boat from Ramsgate to the Isle of Wight and would deeply appreciate some "local knowledge". Is this the proper place to request such assistance?



Andy Lavarre
M/V Pilgrim
Steel Dutch trawler
46' LOA, 4' draught

Hi Alavarre. I don't like bursting people's balloons, but the area you have chosen has to be one of the least attractive and most overcrowded parts of the UK coastline. Eastbourne and Brighton are little more than marine car parks, and the Solent is way overcrowded / overexpensive as in effect London -on -sea. Best thing you can do is to put the hammer down and get past that whole area quickly when you will get to the west country - a much pleasanter sailing region with lots of interesting little harbours.

To decide on your route, I suggest you buy one of the many pilot books which will give you far more useful data than I can give you here.

As an American used to cheap fuel,. be prepared to be shocked by what we have to pay - anything up to 10$ per gallon! Yes,. really.

 

[flaming]

Hi Alavarre. I don't like bursting people's balloons, but the area you have chosen has to be one of the least attractive and most overcrowded parts of the UK coastline. Eastbourne and Brighton are little more than marine car parks, and the Solent is way overcrowded / overexpensive as in effect London -on -sea. Best thing you can do is to put the hammer down and get past that whole area quickly when you will get to the west country - a much pleasanter sailing region with lots of interesting little harbours.

To decide on your route, I suggest you buy one of the many pilot books which will give you far more useful data than I can give you here.

As an American used to cheap fuel,. be prepared to be shocked by what we have to pay - anything up to 10$ per gallon! Yes,. really.

Whilst I agree that the West Country is an excellent cruising ground, I think you're doing the Solent an injustice. It has many delights, especially if unfamiliar with the area.

 

[AIDY]

Whilst I agree that the West Country is an excellent cruising ground, I think you're doing the Solent an injustice. It has many delights, especially if unfamiliar with the area.

agree yarmuff or lym for a quick overnight to wait for HW to head for the PORT BILL. best get out of that place as quick as possible.

 

[grumpy_o_g]

I've found some of the West Country places more crowded than the Solent. It's a while ago but Salcombe managed to be both more expensive and more crowded than anywhere I've seen in the Solent. The Solent's far more varied and interesting than the West Country for me. It has plenty of pretty places but also more industrial and built up areas. The big problem with both the Solent and the West is that it has a lot of the sailing equivalent of tourist traps.

For some reason people migrate towards Poole Quay and the Haven like bees to nectar. Anchor up in South Deep or Blood Alley and you're in a different world. It just about any wind it's comfortable - in most it's pretty much flat calm. It's always tranquil - the noisiest thing is often the local seal wanting his breakfast.

Christchurch is beautiful and doable with 4' if you get it right. Make your way up to the Captains Club and moor up. If you eat there it's free mooring I believe and you can wander in to town afterwards with a pleasant stroll along the river bank. If you're feeling energetic take a walk over Tuckton Bridge and through the nature reserve up to Hengistbury Head where you get a fantastic view over the harbour, can see down to the Solent and out across the channel (weather permitting).

That's west of the Solent, before you get there you've got Keyhaven and Hurst Fort, Bembridge, etc. as well as the better known spots like Beaulieu River, Newton Creek, Yarmouth, Cowes, Lymington, the Hamble, Itchen, etc. Portsmouth is a must - the Naval Dockyard especially and the Spinnaker Tower is good fun to see were you've been/are going. If you're around in the Solent at the right time Cowes Week, the Round the Island Race (RITR) are great to watch and you may get some of the big boys (J Class) in as well.

The other nice thing is it's sheltered so you can have a pleasant day when further west F8's are hammering from all the way across the Atlantic.

Actually, thinking about it, I don't know why people bother with the West Country at all....

 

[alavarre]

More learning

Strand Quay at LW:-

We had no trouble getting there with 4 ft draft.

Thanks for this and the photo especially - eyes on the ground - Is the view Northwestward- Deeper water on the left)? (I hope!)

I I did get a nice reply from the harbourmaster, so they expect to have room.

Hopefully on the western wall.

So I think Rye Harbour is a do. Next, to figure out the following port.

Yesterday I re-laid the track from Gillingham to Ramsgate *without* going round the Swale.

Tomorrow to re-suss the track to the Solent.

I appreciate the comments on overcrowded "London-on-Sea" but have to go there for at least four reasons:

1. To stage for a possible shipping return to the U.S., although that is far from decided

2. To stage for a possible subsequent crossing to France, although that is also far from decided

3. Bragging rights: to be able to say I've been there...

4. Hopefully to find cheaper wintering options to St. Katharine's in London.

All this planning makes one wonder how some others just jump into a boat and take off without a thought... Certainly not for me... I'm sure Dylan counted his pennies very carefully before taking off
'round Britain in 19'...

Cheers all, thanks for the comments and continued edification.

More to follow.

How can people spend their entire lives without a boat, or at least thoughts thereof?



Andy

 

[alavarre]

Hi Alavarre. I don't like bursting people's balloons, but ...put the hammer down and get past that whole area quickly when you will get to the west country

Thanks for the reality check, but step by step, I only have so much time and money... So job one is to get south and west of London.

- a much pleasanter sailing region with lots of interesting little harbours.

To decide on your route, I suggest you buy one of the many pilot books which will give you far more useful data than I can give you here.

Yes thanks, I have Tom Cunliffe's Shell Channel Pilot, useful, but perhaps not as useful as this thread.... So we can perhaps delay the decision and take another year to investigate the West country...

As an American used to cheap fuel,. be prepared to be shocked by what we have to pay - anything up to 10$ per gallon! Yes,. really.

Yes, but TBTG, at 2 gallons per hour at the most, we can go for a long time, especially if we go slowly...

I did the maths once upon a time. She carries 1700 litres (~450 gallons) of fuel. I've got the (Cummins 115 HP) fuel consumption curves. I figured that at five knots I could get from Newport USA to Bermuda, then to the Canaries , then to the Continent. But when you do the maths for gear, food, time, etc. it is about break even to just pay to ship it and avoid the aggro.

So that's what we did.

And it's been great fun.

So we intend to continue the fun, sucking up what hurts, carrying on, and keeping calm.



Cheers, Andy

 

[alavarre]

I've found some of the West Country places more crowded than the Solent.
It's a while ago but Salcombe
...Poole Quay and the Haven
... the local seal wanting his breakfast.
...Christchurch is beautiful
...That's west of the Solent, before you get there you've got Keyhaven and Hurst Fort, Bembridge, etc. as well as the better known spots like Beaulieu River, Newton Creek, Yarmouth, Cowes, Lymington, the Hamble, Itchen, etc. Portsmouth is a must

Lovely, thanks.

...The other nice thing is it's sheltered so you can have a pleasant day when further west F8's are hammering from all the way across the Atlantic.
Actually, thinking about it, I don't know why people bother with the West Country at all....

Awesome. Yet another book that will take several days to digest, thanks.

So clearly, we need to bide our time on the south coast and not be too precipitous about hurtling off to somewhere else.

Thanks again.

Regarding F8 or Force Anything higher than three...

The boat and I might be able to do F4, but my passengers might not, especially Hank the cat. I've got plenty testosterone, but I've figured out how to spend it more wisely than bashing about getting my boat and family trashed out in search of macho achievement. So if it's over 15 knots, we'll just stay put as long as there is a proper pub nearby.

Hobgoblin, anyone?

Unless we get tricked...

This was our trip around North Foreland in a F6/7. We left Ramsgate with an F3 but then rounded the corner (KeepTurningLeft):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sZnroBFlEOA

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Beaufort_scale_7.jpg

And no, we were not properly battened down...

So, I don't want to do that again.

Softly, softly, catchee monkey.

No hurtling.

Cheers, Andy

 

[DJE]

Thanks for this and the photo especially - eyes on the ground - Is the view Northwestward- Deeper water on the left)? (I hope!)

I I did get a nice reply from the harbourmaster, so they expect to have room.

Hopefully on the western wall.

So I think Rye Harbour is a do. Next, to figure out the following port.

The photo is looking South East towards the main river channel. The deeper water is on the North East side (the right bank as you come in) where the visitors berths are with the ladders. But this is Strand Quay which is right in the town and a mile or two inland from the harbour master's jetty at Rye Harbour.

Are you planning to winter ashore or afloat? It might be worth looking at Wicor Marine at the top of Portsmouth Harbour for a winter drying berth.

Have a good trip.

 

[reginaldon]

The view in the photo is looking East with the deeper water to the North. Rye is certainly worth a visit a v. interesting medieval town. Perhaps you might view some videos of the area, filmed by Dylan Winter, who posts on the forum. If you came down the Swale to the south of Sheppey, you would find it interesting, if somewhat circuitous.

 

[Seajet]

Alavarre,

one thing, I know you won't exactly be solely relying on this forum for info', but beware Brighton marina entrance in bad weather; did you see the spectacular photo on here recently ?!

The entrance is renown for reflected waves from the walls, and creates mayhem; in poor conditions Shoreham would be the safest port along there.

The remarks about entertainment were spot on though, Brighton is the only bright spot among otherwise indescribably grim places...

Chichester is wonderful and not to be missed, all the stories about the entrance are true, but only if one is out in daft conditions - it starts to get really nasty in winds around F6 with any S in them, especially when the ebb runs against them.

In normal weather you won't notice the slightest extra ripple.

I'd suggest avoiding the rather barren Chichester marina to the E end,and keep straight on from the entrance, heading N along the Emsworth Channel.

Emsworth is a lovely little town with all facilities, a small museum, very good pubs, and restaurants to suit every pallet and wallet.

The marina is a wonderful sun-trap with short walks beside a mill pond into town, but the berths are VERY tight, you would need to arrange something with them - 01243 377727 .

There are various visitors pontoons and mooring off, but beware the pile moorings start a long way out, don't give yourself too long a dinghy trip.

Another option would be to follow the channel round to the left, Sweare Deep, and to Northney marina - Chan 80, 02392 466321, good berth and all facilities, almost all tide access for you, handy but a little soul-less.

However, it is a 15min walk from there across Hayling bridge to Langstone village, where there are 2 good genuinely old pubs serving food, a small nature reserve behind the easternmost 'Royal Oak', and a shoreside walk all the way from there to Emsworth, about 5 miles.

This passes through a cemetry where many sailors lie, including Peter Blake.

The leg of the harbour to the East has Bosham channel, very pretty but no visitors moorings so one cannot leave the boat untended - may be possible to arrange something with Bosham sailing Club -and Itchenor, which has ( usually quite busy ) visitors moorings, a good pub, and good walks.

Chichester marina has a no hassle lock, good berths & facilities, wildlife & walks, and a medium walk to a good pub, otherwise a bit barren.

Loads of people here will add more, of course feel free to PM if I can help; have a good trip...

 

[Twister_Ken]

Chichester marina has a no hassle lock, good berths & facilities, wildlife & walks, and a medium walk to a good pub, otherwise a bit barren.
.

Well, Chi Marina also has a decent YC with a good restaurant, fuelling, and a canalside walk into Chichester, which is one of the nicer S England towns that you can get close to with a boat (cathedral, galleries, museum, roman villa, theatre).

There's also Birdham Pool marina which is really quaint.

http://www.birdhampool.co.uk/gallery/

 

[Seajet]

TK,

I did say 'good walks', I know the area rather well having done several Snowflake series and a lot of summer sailing there, as well as the odd visit by cruiser.

It's a fair walk along the canal to Chichester !

To be fair I did think 'should have mentioned it's not right by Chichester town' as a lot of people are spoofed by that, but I also said 'others will be along', and here you are.

 

[Twister_Ken]

TK,

It's a fair walk along the canal to Chichester !

4 miles - easy 90 minutes and nice country.

 

[srp]

Re: your fourth reason...

If you're looking for winter berthing it might be worth talking to the Newport harbour master to see if there's anything available in the Newport - Folly part of the Medina. It will be much cheaper than anything at the Cowes end of the river.

 

[alavarre]

Dover to Chichester is a long day's run - I'd guess near 100 miles - and the entrance can be fun in the wrong circumstances. The wind is likely to be on the nose as well. It would be my next stop personally though, with Brighton and Eastbourne as alternatives if Chichester is looking a bit doubtful. Of the two Brighton is by far the better choice in terms of where to stay. Eastbourne is famous for people retiring to it in their old age whereas Brighton is famous for it's gay population and the Royal Pavillion.

Thanks again. Interesting that it is taking me as long or longer to plan the trip than to actually execute it...

I think I now have London to Rye pretty much in hand. Now the next bit.

This goes from Rye around Beachy Head, but then what?

+ Newhaven would be easy but only a few hours on, so I'd rather try to go farther.

+ Brighton would be about right, but your and other comments about its culture are a bit off-putting. What I really like is a quiet pub.

+ Shoreham would be about perfect time-wise, but Tom Cunliffe says "few attractions for visiting yachtsmen".

Which leaves Littlehampton as about an eight hour journey from Rye.

It *sounds nice if you stay at the Town Quay, so I"ve emailed the harbourmaster to ensure we can fit in. I looked at LittleHampton Marina, but it is farther upriver past a footbridge that must be booked 24 hours in advance and on the West side of the channel with a very fair walk to town across a motorway bridge.

Comments?

This forum really is tremendously helpful, especially for a Type ONE Enneagram...

http://www.enneagraminstitute.com/TypeOne.asp

I really do want to do my homework.

Tomorrow: to Chichester!!

OBTW, in the course of all this I've found a seemingly useful site:

http://www.visitmyharbour.com/online-charts.asp

Don't know if anyone has used its viewer...

Thanks again.

Cheers, Andy Lavarre
M/V Pilgrim

 

[Seajet]

Alavarre,

Brighton has a lot to offer other than the gay scene, which unless it's changed recently is not very obvious. There are many nice pubs; a favourite of mine was the 'King & Queen, just N of the Pavillion, a large place with a bit of atmosphere, there often used to be live music, I haven't been for years.

Lots of good places to eat, and 'The Lanes' area of small shops is usually a hit with the ladies.

There are also cinemas etc if that should appeal.

Littlehampton is very different - shallows off the entrance and very strong tides - but is a reasonable sized town with good normal pubs on offer. It has a certain reputation that one should be careful at night, drugs & violence, but it's just something to be aware of and certainly not to get worried about.

 

[minnitt]

Hello all. We're taking a boat from Ramsgate to the Isle of Wight and would deeply appreciate some "local knowledge". Is this the proper place to request such assistance?

I have many many questions of course, never having sailed these waters, but I'll hold off the questions until I am properly "on topic". Mostly looking for special "gotchas", recommended berthing, special pubs to visit, etc. I've got all the charts, GRIB files, seamanship pretty much in hand.

Would especially appreciate commentary on the Cowes/Beaulieu area as I plan to leave the boat there for the winter.

Thanks in advance,

Kind regards,

Andy Lavarre
M/V Pilgrim
Steel Dutch trawler
46' LOA, 4' draught

I keep my boat (9.3m long, 1.5 m draft, fin keel)in Chichester harbour and have just returned from trip to Rye.

Rye first - a very interesting place. Worth exploring in detail - take at least 2 - 3 nights. Subject to conditions you should have no difficulty in getting in; wait till about local HW - 1hour. Rye Fairway buoy not easy to locate visually so electronic navigation useful.

You will have to visit the HM office at Rye Harbour to get directions etc. But dont stay in Rye Harbour. Go instead up to Strand Quay at Rye town. Dont dawdle tho as the water goes out fast! Depending on where HM wants you to go, you can berth on either side - the west side has a filling station near the end which could be a bit noisy during the day whilst the east side adjoins directly the town itself and can therefore be a bit noisier than the other side. Take note - Strand Quay is NOT rural.

You will berth in soft mud on either side of Strand Quay. At LW there is no water to speak of - for most of the tide cycle its mud, glorious very soft mud! Berth alongside a ladder up the Quay. Use a fenderboard if you wish but you may find it more of a nuisance than its worth. It is quite a drop down to the mud when the tide goes out (even at neaps) so you will have to adjust ropes initially.

As for resturants and pubs, you will have to go to the Mermaid Inn even just for a drink. I wont tell you why save to say that it is very proud of the fact that it was re-built in 1420!
You can get bar snacks there. Try also Webbes at the Fish Cafe - particularly for fish and seafood. And Tuscan Kitchen - for Italian type food. For fish and chips go to Morino's in the Mint. Rye is seriously good for fish - likewise nearby Hastings!

Do visit the parish church in Rye, St Marys, and the castle. Also the Castle Museum. Try walking around Camber Castle as well.

Then why not try Littlehampton in preference to Brighton or going all the way to Chichester in one go. Like Rye it is tidal so access has to be timed. Also entry is not suitable in strong onshore winds and seas.

Unless you are going from Littlehampton I personally believe there is little to be gained by taking the Looe channel around Selsey Bill and usually go round the Bill via the Owers cardinal.

Chichester harbour is lovely and extensive but do try also to go to Bembridge, Wootton, Island Harbour (up the Medina river from Cowes), and Newtown Creek.

As for laying up the Solent area is likely to be quite expensive. But try Hayling Yacht Co who have half-tide and mud berths in Chichester harbour. Also try the various boatyards at the top of Portsmouth harbour. Unless you are willing to pay a lot i suggest you avoid Beaulieu for laying up. Likewise Cowes but you may find cheaper mud berths and half tide moorings up the river Medina to Newport.

Best of luck for your trip - if you want to know any more detail send me a PM.
Michael Minnitt