Yank's cruise from Ramsgate to Isle of Wight

For some reason I'm getting a sneak preview of the next question on normal repeated mail while it's not here yet, some foible of the forum works !

Anyway, being pshycic I think you'd like to know about Cowes & Beaulieu...

Cowes; a must - see, also must avoid the first marina on the W side IMHO, unless you want a night rolling at the berth as even at night the ferries go to & fro & ships go past in the Solent.

Much better to go upstream.

The chain ferry is usually very considerate - there's a strong ebb and they will wait for a yacht to get past until setting off - signalled by a ball at the business end mast going down and yellow light flashing.

If in doubt, of course wait. Just upstream is a fuel barge to starboard and on a bit is East Cowes Marina, much more secluded, with an on site pub & generally good facilities.

It would be a huge shame not to visit Cowes proper though.

To get there one wanders through a small modern housing estate to the ‘floating bridge’, which runs regularly and is free.

Extra points if you can work out all the odd noises it makes.

The place has the mickey taken as a lot of posers in co-ordinated shirts go there, but in reality this is the home of serious sailing.

There are museums, at least 2 good Indian restaurants, and a grand view over the Solent from the far end of the town ( personally I’d recommend the ‘Union Inn’ of to the right towards the water on the way, nice place & food ) and a walk around the outside of the Royal Yacht Squadron complete with row of brass cannon, said to be most exclusive in the world; I wouldn’t know, I refuse their begging letters.

Upstream of East Cowes marina is the village of Whippingham, with the Folly pub; there are long rows of pontoons opposite the pub mid-river, and a water taxi if desired.

There’s a very nice walk along from the Folly, up past the mobile home park, through woods then along the shoreline to Island Harbour marina.

This place has a lock to get in, but is supremely peaceful if you have the time or it’s bad weather. The tides suit the lock if going on westwards the next day.

There are good bus services from the main road near there, into Cowes or around the Island.

There is another good walk from the Folly, past Whippingham church and across the fields all the way to East Cowes, beware some farmer with a sense of humour may place a bull in a field despite public footpaths, and it’s a long way, certainly worth thinking about a ( not cheap ) water taxi back.

As ever the 'public footpath' wooden signs and logo are the answer.

Beaulieu is another matter.

The entrance can be boisterous and gets shallow at low water, but both conditions apply only when entirely predictable and one would not be around by choice anyway.

Check this hasn’t changed, I have a feeling it may have, but it was possible to anchor relatively close to the entrance as soon as one is sheltered by a low lying spit to port, facing West.

And be prepared for a high speed attack boat demanding harbour dues about 10 seconds later.

This sets the tone of the place for many; for god’s sake have plenty of meals on board !

The river is delightful, and long, until one comes to Bucklers Hard.

Here there are pile moorings, usually rafting along other boats, or the marina which is mind-boggling expensive for small boats, but last I knew a flat rate, so not so bad for larger craft; small though so check spaces if this is desired.

The ONLY pub caters – or rather doesn’t – for the captive market, see the ‘pubs & restaurants forum’ along a bit from this one, and the current ‘Bucklers Hard – So What’s The Attraction’ thread…

Worth a one –off visit though, and the museum isn’t bad.
 
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For some reason I'm getting a sneak preview of the next question on normal repeated mail while it's not here yet, some foible of the forum works !

Anyway, being pshycic I think you'd like to know about Cowes & Beaulieu...
Thanks to all again, especially THIS book... :-) There is so much to absorb!

What is sounding like a plan is to go up to Emsworth and figure out a winter berthing plan,
and then, depending on time or weather, do some Solent exploring.

Emsworth sounds especially fun with its pubs and history of oysters and beer... :-)

Roger on fuggedabout Chi Marina, perhaps spend a night in Cowes for the experience, maybe take a bike or a cab to visit Beaulieu just to say you've been there, but then spend more time as available exploring the surrounding channels and villages. Bosham looks interesting...

Thanks for must not miss Brighton, but perhaps next summer. I need to get the boat settled in someplace less expensive than London.

But don't jump on me just yet, I have a few more weeks and tons of your responses to read and then check out with the charts and Google Earth. So I shall keep you informed of progress.

Thanks so much. Just amazing how much information is out there that I don't know... :-)

Cheers, Andy
 
Then why not try Littlehampton in preference to Brighton or going all the way to Chichester in one go. Like Rye it is tidal so access has to be timed. Also entry is not suitable in strong onshore winds and seas.

Again, thanks for all this...

I charted the routes and times to Littlehampton and two precedent ports, I think you are right in my circumstances, so have decided on Littlehampton.

Chichester harbour is lovely and extensive but do try also to go to Bembridge, Wootton, Island Harbour (up the Medina river from Cowes), and Newtown Creek.

As posted separately, now looking at Emsworth as an initial target, perhaps as a laying up site, then explore the larger area for a few weeks as time allows before laying up.

Thanks also for the PM invite, may take you up.

Cheers to all. Andy
 
Good luck for your trip.

I see you have decided to leave your boat in the Cowes or Beaulieu area. I live on the Isle of Wight so can comment on that side of it.

It wasnt clear to me whether you plan to leave your boat in the water or have it hauled out. In either case it would also be good to know if you plan to still use the boat, albeit only as a place to stay when ashore of course.

Cowes is interesting and there are several places where you could have the boat hauled ashore and left safely, although at quite a price. If you intend visitng your boat at all you will need to ferry over via Southampton and there are choices of a fast passenger only ferry, or a slower one that takes cars.

You might want to consider Yarmouth to over-winter if you are planning to stay afloat as many do. You can ferry over from Lymington which is a similar ferry duration. It is smaller, quiter, prettier and a far nicer marina than any in Cowes. It is also has access to attractive walks and coastline which Cowes does not. Depends what you prefer I guess.

Yarmouth is on Google Earth of course, but since the pictures were taken the harbour has been reconfigured in terms of pontoon layouts and there are now lots of new finger berths with water, electricity and a very short walk to pubs and restaurants.
 
Hello, thank you for your insights...

>It wasnt clear to me whether you plan to leave your boat in the water or have it hauled

Well, it depends. Mostly on the money, but also on the safety.

This could easily start a whole new thread... :-) My sense is that if the winters are temperate, which I infer the English ones are, then out of the water might be more economical, but if more bitter, like here, in the water would be better, but prolly more expensive.

The boat has a central heating system and is steel hulled, so could be kept warm in either case.

>Cowes is interesting and there are several places where you could have the boat hauled

Your and everyone else's comments I've received have convinced me that Cowes/Gosport are not places someone who has to discriminate on cost should go... :-(

> You might want to consider Yarmouth to over-winter if you are planning to stay afloat as
Depends what you prefer I guess.

Thanks for this. What I prefer is a short walk to pub, grub, and other niceties... :-)

I'll explore Yarmouth both virtually and actually.

ACtually, Google Earth is pretty amazing! I've been playing with it and found my boat at St. Kat's as of summer 2010...

>Yarmouth is on Google Earth of course, but since the pictures were taken the harbour has

Well that happens of course. I found the lock at Teddington and compared it to pictures I had taken there. My pictures, and the pictures on the GoogleEarth site show a blue footbridge about 500 meters above the lock, but the overhead photos (and RayTech RNS vector charts) do not.

So stuff happens, especially on the water. Therefore,

“The prudent mariner shall not rely on any single source of information...”

:-)

FOR EXAMPLE: I've been compiling (pilotage information from all your comments and subsequent research) and my waypoints in Excel. I had laboriously downloaded times of HW and LW from the RayTech RNS software for the various legs of my journey, and had developed an Excel formula to interpolate the actual heights of tide for each waypoint.

(PM if you'd like a copy and explanation. Basically interpolate time between LW and HW and use a sine function scaled by the HW-LW difference to get the result.)

I was delighted with the results. A nice comfortable departure around 0900 from St. Kat's onward would put me at almost or just past high water, with arrivals six hours later again with comfort.

Ah. The life. New pubs, here we come.

But then, today, I thought to myself, thought I, hmmm. Maybe I should check this against PLA or some other source.

Well, DUH.

My software was set to LOCAL, not GMT, so I was off by four hours (Eastern Daylight to GMT)

Sigh.

So we can leave St. Kat's AFTER noon, foregoing the pub lunch, and spend the night... where? Prolly at anchor at Holehaven or (worse) Erith.

Holehaven was OK once upon a time. They had a pier and a pub at the head of the pier.

Wonder if it is still there... The back of my head says it was the Lamb and Something...

Thanks all again,

Cheers, Andy
 
Holehaven was OK once upon a time. They had a pier and a pub at the head of the pier.

Wonder if it is still there... The back of my head says it was the Lamb and Something...

Ah! The Lobster Smack...

Ages ago, my GF and I took our boat, a 10M Irwin sailboat, downriver to Holehaven and took the dinghy to the dock to go to the Lobster Smack. When we came out we found a fellow stark naked trying to pull his inflatable out from under the dock, as it had moved under the dock and the tide was rising... We offered to help (between laughings) but he shooed us away...

Talk about the Confessional...

So, fond memories, but may be more difficult now.

Cheers, Andy
 
OK, now what to do...

We're now here in St. Katharine's Dock. Had planned to depart tomorrow Sunday 24 July but Screwtape has interfered.

Details below, but the bottom line is that having done proper underway checkoff listing, we have found a number of bits that don't work.

So where to get replacements? Pumpkin has gone bust, Halfords doesn't have boat bits, Megastore is a link farm, Arthur Beale doesn't do engine bits ...

So, where does a proper yachtsman go to find proper marine gear in London or environs, or even on the web? I've spent several hours googling...

Cheers, Andy

Screwtape details:

http://genietvanhetleven.blogspot.com/2011/07/screwtape-doesnt-want-us-to-leave.html
 
Yank's continuing voyage... La France?

Thanks all for the comments and advice. We have finished that bit; the boat is now in Birdham Poole, just SW of Chichester Harbour.

It only took 30 days to manage five days of travel, thanks to the weather... :-(

But we are snug and safe in Birdham.

So now, the next leg is... TBD.

I had thought of circumnavigating Wight but the excellent Summer Edition of YM has convinced me there isn't much there worth doing, except for the bragging rights "I rounded the Isle of Wight in a day!!"

So now looking at crossing the channel to France. Which raises the question:

Which port? I'd prefer somewhere near the Cap de la Hague, as the present objective is Brittany.

Cherbourg seems yet another massive metropolis. Omonville/Le Hable seem inviting if a bit open. The next opportunity I find is around the corner into Goury, again an open roadstead...

So where would the prudent mariner go for the first night's stop after a channel crossing to France from Nab channel?

Thanks again, Kind regards, Andy
 
For berthing in Cowes you will find plenty of similar craft at East Cowes Marina who offer attractive winter rates. Alternatively, if looking for peace and quiet plus security check out Island Harbour. It is slightly higher up the river, not quite so accessible by public transport. Will you be living on board?
 
Thanks all for the comments and advice. We have finished that bit; the boat is now in Birdham Poole, just SW of Chichester Harbour.

It only took 30 days to manage five days of travel, thanks to the weather... :-(

But we are snug and safe in Birdham.

So now, the next leg is... TBD.

I had thought of circumnavigating Wight but the excellent Summer Edition of YM has convinced me there isn't much there worth doing, except for the bragging rights "I rounded the Isle of Wight in a day!!"

So now looking at crossing the channel to France. Which raises the question:

Which port? I'd prefer somewhere near the Cap de la Hague, as the present objective is Brittany.

Cherbourg seems yet another massive metropolis. Omonville/Le Hable seem inviting if a bit open. The next opportunity I find is around the corner into Goury, again an open roadstead...

So where would the prudent mariner go for the first night's stop after a channel crossing to France from Nab channel?

Thanks again, Kind regards, Andy

The south coast of he island is rugged but good to look at, albeit without many places to stop.

However, the north coast is very interesting. If you haven't done it before you should consider doing a Solent circuit. Much more interesting than going straight to France.
 
Yank and Pilgrim's pilgrimage...

Hello, thanks again.

>The south coast of the island is rugged but good to look at, albeit without many places to stop.

That is what the article suggested. I think I shall save that for another time.

>However, the north coast is very interesting. If you haven't done it before you should consider doing a Solent circuit. Much more interesting than going straight to France.

:-) Well, once again, TBTG for YM. Yet another recent article focused on the Hamble River. Yet another reason to stay in Jolly Ol'...

Of course it all depends on crew (or not). Initially I had two crew, but now one is wingeing out and the other hasn't yet decided and it might rain tomorrow and what about the election and ...

:-(

So if (not) then it makes more sense to stay north of the channel, at least for the fall and winter. I can happily singlehand for four to six hours, and have done so from Burgundy to Birdham Pool, but sometimes it is just more prudent to have crew.

I'll have three weeks available in October. Birdham Pool is lovely but very far from much of anything, so I think I'd rather be closer to a grocer, green grocer, and pub that I can walk to...

So next task is to do some navigating and detailed investigation of both Beaulieu and Hamble.

I do also need to get the boat hauled. It's been a couple of years, so need zincs, throughhulls, and bottom paint checked thoroughly. Birdham have a 20 ton lift, so we are just at their limit... :-(

> For berthing in Cowes you will find plenty of similar craft at East Cowes Marina who offer attractive winter rates. Alternatively, if looking for peace and quiet plus security check out Island Harbour.

Thanks. Peace and quiet are ok, but better to be able to walk a few blocks for groceries and a pint. Security is of course paramount as I shall not be there...

> It is slightly higher up the river, not quite so accessible by public transport. Will you be living on board?

Well it depends. My contract expires at the end of September with no renewal on the horizon, so I was just going to chill out on the boat for three weeks and see what tomorrow brings. If I'm in the UK I would be living aboard.

:-}

The other point is getting from LHR to Birdham and then from wherever back to LHR in three weeks time.

So more googling to do... :-)

Thanks again to all.

Cheers, Andy
 
I'd agree with the above suggestions of East Cowes for good facilities, a nice place to be with everything you could possibly want including something always going on for interest, and good connections to the mainland.

Also agree re Island Harbour if you want a really quiet time but still in reach of the Folly Inn and bus / taxi / long country walk to Cowes...

Have fun whatever you do.
 
So where would the prudent mariner go for the first night's stop after a channel crossing to France from Nab channel?

The prudent mariner might well go to Cherbourg regardless, being a very easy target to hit, and then push on somewhere else the following day. But I've only done that crossing twice, on quite a small boat, so Cherbourg is still a welcome sight to me :)

Pete
 
FOR EXAMPLE: I've been compiling (pilotage information from all your comments and subsequent research) and my waypoints in Excel. I had laboriously downloaded times of HW and LW from the RayTech RNS software for the various legs of my journey, and had developed an Excel formula to interpolate the actual heights of tide for each waypoint.

(PM if you'd like a copy and explanation. Basically interpolate time between LW and HW and use a sine function scaled by the HW-LW difference to get the result.)

Beware that once you get past about Littlehampton the tide stops following simple sine functions.

http://www.pol.ac.uk/ntslf/sadata_tgi_ntslf_v2.php?code=Newhaven&span=1

http://www.pol.ac.uk/ntslf/sadata_tgi_ntslf_v2.php?code=Portsmouth&span=1

http://www.pol.ac.uk/ntslf/sadata_tgi_ntslf_v2.php?code=Bournemouth&span=1

http://www.pol.ac.uk/ntslf/sadata_tgi_ntslf_v2.php?code=Weymouth&span=1

The POL website links also give you the actual heights of tide in comparison to the predictions.
 
If you are going to winter afloat then consider Poole. The marina on the quay does good winter rates as it is primarily used by visiting yachts in the summer and they look for winter only folks to keep the berths full. Walking distance from pubs, shops, railway station and coach direct to Heathrow. Only 15 miles from Solent and good jumping off point for France - shortest distance to Cherbourg.
 
Holy cow!

What a wonderful site and a wonderful group of fellows. Great fun, and advice, thanks to all. I'm overwhelmed! You should ALL write a Pilot!

>>Which port? I'd prefer somewhere near the Cap de la Hague, as the present objective is Brittany.
>You could work your way west to Portland and then cross to Alderney to keep the length of passages to a minimum.

I'll keep that in mind, thanks (I'm cataloguing and categorizing all this, engineer that I am...:-).

The consensus here and elsewhere is that October is a lovely time in the Solent, so I shall stay put therein and potter about Gosport, Beaulieu and Hamble...

:-)

>Tranona If you are going to winter afloat then consider Poole. The marina on the quay does good winter rates as it is primarily used by visiting yachts in the summer and they look for winter only folks to keep the berths full. Walking distance from pubs, shops, railway station and coach direct to Heathrow. Only 15 miles from Solent and good jumping off point for France - shortest distance to Cherbourg.

That is serious advice, thank you. Sounds just about right. Secure, walking to necessities... perhaps putting her on the hard.

Are you referring to

http://www.poolequayboathaven.co.uk/

??

Thanks especially...I had thought of Poole before, but have not explored yet the preferred marinas. I need to haul and clean and replace zincs and paint, all with a nominal 20 Ton steel boat, so need someplace rather industrial, although preferably also convivial...

>>Sine curves and tidals

> Beware that once you get past about Littlehampton the tide stops following simple sine functions.

Ah. Thanks for the warning. Yes I've seen the curves. Quite non-sinusoidal... :-( But it's all guesswork anyhow, right? "It depends"... :-)

>The prudent mariner might well go to Cherbourg regardless, being a very easy target to hit, and then push on somewhere else the following day. But I've only done that crossing twice, on quite a small boat, so Cherbourg is still a welcome sight to me

:-)

The path of least resistance. Yes thanks.

> I'd agree with the above suggestions of East Cowes for good facilities, a nice place to be with everything you could possibly want including something always going on for interest, and good connections to the mainland.

> Also agree re Island Harbour if you want a really quiet time but still in reach of the Folly Inn and bus / taxi / long country walk to Cowes...

****Have fun whatever you do.

Thanks again to all. AMEN especially to the last.

On my deathbed I shall NOT wish I'd spent more time in the office, rather on the BOAT.

When I land somewhere I shall post and perhaps we can all share a pint.

You are the best. Thanks again.

Cheers, Andy
 
I'd agree with the above suggestions of East Cowes for good facilities, a nice place to be with everything you could possibly want including something always going on for interest, and good connections to the mainland.

Also agree re Island Harbour if you want a really quiet time but still in reach of the Folly Inn and bus / taxi / long country walk to Cowes...

Have fun whatever you do.

Where might you suggest in East Cowes:

http://www.deanreddyhoff.co.uk/east-cowes-marina/

???

Thanks again, especially for the "whatever you do"... :-)

Cheers, Andy
 
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