Yammer 1gm10 not starting

The water for the exhaust cooling goes into the small spigot on the top of the elbow. There is an inner sleeve that helps the water go into the exhaust and not back into the engine. It is easy to check that the inner sleeve has not been corroded and perforated which is a known failure point.
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The anti siphon vent should be above the waterline and just before the cooling water goes into the exhaust. It will look like this.
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Whilst it is a good idea to have a fuel filter with a clear bowl so you can see any water in the fuel.you should make sure you only put clean fuel into the tank.. The most likely cause of water in the fuel is a leaking seal on the deck filler allowing rainwater to get in. I doubt this is your starting problem.
The 1GM is very basic and if it has fuel, air, compression and turns over fast it will start.. Get these checked first and follow the suggestions above to find the source of the water in the cylinder and you will have a working engine again.
Hi I posted a couple of photos and a note on my progress. I believe I need a head gasket change.

Here is a link to a YouTube video I posted where I turn the engine with muffler off.
 
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So Paul. Not the battery!
Water in the cylinder is called water lock.
When the piston is at top dead centre on a high compression diesel engine there is very little space, so even a teaspoon of water can cause water locking.
It is rare but can't be ruled out.

You want to get onto this right away, as if you leave it for any time the rings will rust to the cylinder and create a bigger (more expensive) problem.

Luckily , (always look on the bright side of life) your little 10 GM is easy to work on.

In advance order a manifold gasket and a head gasket.

1. Remove the head. To do this you will need to remove everything connected to the head. (exhaust manifold, cooling water lines, fuel delivery line to the injector.) Rocker cover, rockers, push rods and then the head bolts.
2. Inspect , dry and clean the piston top and cylinder. REALLY clean!!
3. Replace head and ancillary parts. bleed fuel delivery line and away you go.

Not yet! You have to identify and rectify why the cooling water entered the cylinder in the first place.

"Ducked" has mentions some points here.

Can you post photos of your exhaust elbow and water to exhaust injection system?


All the best

gary
Hi I have posted a short video where I turn the engine over with the muffler off. I believe it is water mixed with a bit of Diesel

I have drained the oil does not seem like there was any water in it I will let it set and see.
 
Water coming out means water getting in.

There is no short cut.

Head off and hope that it is just a head gasket replacement.
gary
 
My problem started after an overnight outing, the next day I needed to use decompression valve to turn engine over and it would not start.

I have fuel delivering to cylinder as it is coming out the exhaust pipe.

I have bled all the system to be sure there is no air.

I have water leaking out of the air intake about two drops for every 10 -15 seconds of turning the engine over.

I am thinking fit is the injector that may dirty or not spraying.

Any help in this matter would be helpful.

Paul
I replaced the head gasket, the floor of my boat is quite lonso
I had to remove the injector and the rocker stuff, it was quite hard to remove it and put the head back on. After installing all the parts and pieces I noticed that I do not feel a large amount of compression, I bled the fuel lines and I am not sure there is no fuel going into the cylinder at least that is my thought, I am wondering if I am missing a step in the bleed process around the injector? Do I need to put anything like gasket glue on the metal side of the gasket?
 
When the exhaust elbow fails internally it allows salt water to enter the cylinder through the exhaust port. This can eat through the cylinder head exhaust port, cause pitting of the exhaust valve and seat and worse case can bend the con-rod. Not sure if you inspected the head when it was removed. Also the pistons crown should be slightly above the block deck at tdc. If it is below the top of the block at tdc you have a bent con-rod. If you open the high pressure diesel pipe union and crank the engine until diesel starts to spit, tighten the union and turn the engine over, you should here the injector 'squeak'. If you do then there is diesel being injected.
 
When the exhaust elbow fails internally it allows salt water to enter the cylinder through the exhaust port. This can eat through the cylinder head exhaust port, cause pitting of the exhaust valve and seat and worse case can bend the con-rod. Not sure if you inspected the head when it was removed. Also the pistons crown should be slightly above the block deck at tdc. If it is below the top of the block at tdc you have a bent con-rod. If you open the high pressure diesel pipe union and crank the engine until diesel starts to spit, tighten the union and turn the engine over, you should here the injector 'squeak'. If you do then there is diesel being injected.
 
Hello everyone, last night I took the head off and discovered some metal fragments from the head gasket, it stopped the piston from going to the top, once I cleared all the debris out of cylinder, i re- assembled and bled all the fuel lines. I turned the engine over by hand and had lots of compression. So I gave it a whirl and it did not start right away had to pump the throttle, it was not starting then I heard a pump pump sound so I gave it another try and it started. I was so happy! Now the engine starts real easy. So nice. Thanks to everyone who responded to my posts. I found quite helpful.

 
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