Yamaha Malta

I've a fair few bits to buy, and have seen some silly prices - who do you use?
I use Outboards-Direct (aka Oakley Marine) for Evinrude parts. They are also agents for Yamaha parts.

:: OutBoards-Direct :: OUTBOARD SPARE PARTS

There is a link on the site to the Yamaha parts catalogue which will identify the parts you need.

Fill in the email enquiry form with the full engine details and state what parts you need. If there is a query they will contact you to clarify the details
 
Apologies for thread hijack, but I have removed the thermostat from my Malta as part of the maintenance work - it was seized open but with some careful cleaning and coaxing it now will open and close. I plan to test it in a hot water bath - can anyone advise the temp it should open at?
 
Apologies for thread hijack, but I have removed the thermostat from my Malta as part of the maintenance work - it was seized open but with some careful cleaning and coaxing it now will open and close. I plan to test it in a hot water bath - can anyone advise the temp it should open at?
I tested my thermosat in a saucepan and it seemed to open at around 55 C and started to close at around 45 to 50 C. All a bit crude in testing but it proved that it worked.
 
'Fraid I can't help either, ditto to cleaning mine. If it helps... I've tested a fair few old car stats and, once cleaned, they've always opened when they should.
 
Mr Gear lever re your original post. do you now have a manual or not.
If not give me a PM and I can send you a PDF of a Yamaha 5C which I believe is identical , or at least close enough not to matter.

Regards Clive

That should have read Boathook and i have now found out how to, and send a PM .
 
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Thermostat seems kaput, no movement at all from 20 deg to 90 deg! It is still stuck in the open position.
I assume a bad idea to leave stuck open?
 
Thermostat seems kaput, no movement at all from 20 deg to 90 deg! It is still stuck in the open position.
I assume a bad idea to leave stuck open?
It is not a good idea to refit it stuck open, or chucked out altogether. The engine will not be operating at its designed temperature and carbonning up is one likely consequence
soak it in some descaler ......... I used Cillit Bang Limescale and Grime but a kettle descaler would probably have worked more quickly.

When free of scale gently try to ease it shut a little, back off,. Gentle try to working a little at a time . If you can get it moving freely and naturally closing test it again. If it does not work you have lost nothing but a bit of time........ and you'll have plenty of that to spare in the coming months if not years.

They tend to fail closed or stick open so one that is stuck open has decent chance of recovery.
 
Thermostat seems kaput, no movement at all from 20 deg to 90 deg! It is still stuck in the open position.
I assume a bad idea to leave stuck open?
Stuck open is way better than shut, but with uncertainty and in the absence of a spare the usual thing to do is to leave it out entirely. It just takes longer to warm up and may be less efficient at lower power.
 
Hi some great info ,I have a tohatsu 3.5 just got it, does anyone have a digital copy of manual cheers.
 
Last summer I drilled for good the cooling water telltale hole in the Yamaha Malta leg casting.
Thanking all the pictures of the taken apart leg in this thread i was able to make the hole without disassembling the motor.
I chose the position in "left side of the picture", downstream of the head and cylinder waterjacket, supplying also the temperature data.
I know that the idea of machining a mounted part and sending chips inside a motor will make shudder any mechanic, also half a one as I am, but I thought that the few aluminium chips would be washed away by the cooling water at the first start and that the cross section of the way to sea/lake is wide and the chips had no place to go and make harm, so I did it.
I made a 3 mm hole with the battery drill at the mooring.
The first picture is the Malta in surgery position, the other shows the hole location, Boathook picture style.
The other hole which can be seen lower than the drill bit is where I started drilling by mistake and stopped in time after 5 or 6 millimeters without feeling the bit going through. I was misled by the bulge on the right of the hole position. There are two bulges. No damage: the mistaken hole is blind.
Tested the tell tale motoring: all OK and improved peace of mind.

Sandro
 
Hi. So where the drill is sticking into, is where the newly made tell take is ? It works ok ?
If I have understood correctly though it is into the cooling water exit channel not into the inlet channel which is the more
normal place for a telltale
 
If I have understood correctly though it is into the cooling water exit channel not into the inlet channel which is the more
normal place for a telltale
It's normal Vic, but I've thought about it and chose to add mine to the exit so that I get notice of either impellor failure or blocked/restricted channels. I mentioned that upthread somewhere I think, and @pandos may have agreed. (There does still seem to be sufficient pressure at that point to generate a healthy pee). If I missed the bleeding obvious, do let me know because I still don't see why Yamaha et al wouldn't do it my way!
 
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